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I've been wondering the same thing. I don't understand why the same concerns for pressure treated wood would not apply for bunks. I would think once a bunk has gotten a tear in the carpet, the same type reaction could take place on the bottom of the hull.

Also, unless you are using one of the rubber backed carpets, I'm guessing that the corrosive components will eventually weep into the carpet. Especially when the wet bunks are left to bake in the sun. And again, the same rules apply once there is a tear.

I would like to hear more feedback before I purchase new bunks.
 
here is my take.

last season I replaced the rotted carpet on my untreated bunks. the wood was fine, the carpet was falling apart. the P.O. had applied some paint to the untreated boards and stapled the carpet on. I pulled the old carpet, sanded and repainted and stapled on new carpet.

I keep my boat in a garage so the bunks are only wet for a short time. for me its not worth the hassle or worry with treated boards. If I had a larger boat that was more difficult to get off the trailer to replace the bunks I might worry, but if all I need to do is slide the boat off in to the grass and buy one 8 foot 2 x 4 every few years thats fine.
 
I'd be worried about the pressure treated wood.It be on my mind to much wondering if it is seeping into the carpet.I don't think I'd chance it,something like this is going to be going on next for me.:https://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/
https://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/
 
Zum said:
I'd be worried about the pressure treated wood.It be on my mind to much wondering if it is seeping into the carpet.I don't think I'd chance it,something like this is going to be going on next for me.:https://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/
https://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/

Dang! They're only 15 minutes from me. Thanks Zum. I'd like to go check them out.
 
ultimate bunkboards are what I have on my trailer.. and those things are SLICK! you better be careful if you plan on walking on them at all - found out the hard way the first time I tried to load my boat at Lathem in January with them suckers... man that water was cold!

They are DEFINITELY worth the money though - and they are holding up well so far.. no notches taken out and they aren't scratched at all... they do have a little bit of my blue paint on them from the bottom of the boat though.

I just barely put the end of the bunks in the water and I can pull my boat all the way up (and my boat is not light)
 
I'm trying to envision this....If you just barely put your bunks in the water, how do you keep it from sliding back off before you can hook up? Now I'm thinking that at some of the steeper ramps, these things might be a problem.... :-k
 
don't forget I don't have guides on my trailer, so I can't back it down that far in the water. I guess I could do it, but if the boat is not resting in this hauling place, I can't lift the back of the boat by myself and adjust it correctly to make it sit between the chines on the bottom of the boat.

I pull the boat up with the rope attached to the front handle of the boat, hook the winch to it and winch it all the way up. Then I can drive out of the ramp. I don't drive my boat up on the trailer, I pull it on because I'm always by myself.
 
Russ, what if you always had someone with you, and the idea was that whoever was loading the boat on the trailer would stay in the boat and hook up. Do you think these things would cause a problem? Most of the guys I see go full steam (with their trolling motors) and get within 2 feet of the bow stop before their boat stops on the carpeted bunks. This seems to hold them in place to allow them to walk to the front of the boat and reach down to grab the strap. They will then crank themselves up from the boat, or just leave the boat where it is and crank it the rest of the way up after they have pulled the boat from the water and are packing up.

To me, the ultimatebunks may be like being on rollers (like I have now) I would think that the boat would always keep trying to slide off. I'm not sure if "slick" is so much what I am after as I am trying to find a product that will never need to be replaced/carpeted.

On steep ramps (maybe 2 out of our tourney lakes), my partner keeps the trolling motor turned on in the back as he goes up to the front of the boat to keep from rolling off. Although it's not ideal, it keeps him in the boat and me in the truck without anyone having to get wet.

Whadaya think?
 
I think I'd be concerned about PT wood if the bottom of my boat was aluminum - but if it has Steel Flex, will it matter?
 
ober51 said:
I think I'd be concerned about PT wood if the bottom of my boat was aluminum - but if it has Steel Flex, will it matter?

:lol: Now I'm back to carpeted pressure treated. :LMFAO:
 
Brine said:
ober51 said:
I think I'd be concerned about PT wood if the bottom of my boat was aluminum - but if it has Steel Flex, will it matter?

:lol: Now I'm back to carpeted pressure treated. :LMFAO:

Wait, are you making fun of me? Lol. I think Steel Flex will protect, am I right?
 
ober51 said:
Brine said:
ober51 said:
I think I'd be concerned about PT wood if the bottom of my boat was aluminum - but if it has Steel Flex, will it matter?

:lol: Now I'm back to carpeted pressure treated. :LMFAO:

Wait, are you making fun of me? Lol. I think Steel Flex will protect, am I right?

No, I'm making fun of myself for flip flopping on ideas. That's why I'm here tho, to hear other people's opinions.

Yes, the steelflex I put on the boat should keep any possible copper that weeps into the carpet from reaching the hull.

I've seen alot of trailers on here and in real life with torn carpet. I was trying to consider some different options rather than carpeted bunks.
 
Haha, that's what I figured. Don't worry, I have thick skin even if you were poking fun :D But yeah, that's why we are all here, to learn and make fewer mistakes!
 
Now Im confused :oops: Which is better? I cannot afford ultimatebunks right now. What is everyone else using right now? Right now my bunks are cover in rubber which is working fine but, I need to move to bunks back a few inches and Im am not going to be able to remove the rubber without tearing it apart because the guy who put it on used about two hundred roofing nails to secure the rubber to the bunks. So I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Thanks you everone for your replys.

Gary
 
:twisted: I replaced my original bunks(rotted) four years ago with pressure teated 2x4 with marine grade carpet and glue. Plus I used rust free staples on the bottom of the bunks. Put on bunk pads to save the carpet but they cracked after several years. The bunks/carpet are still in real good shape. My boat is a 2000 Pro Team16 Tracker and probably has about 100 plus trips with the newer bunks. Here is a sample of the bunk pads(not my trailer).....
 

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fish devil said:
:twisted: I replaced my original bunks(rotted) four years ago with pressure teated 2x4 with marine grade carpet and glue. Plus I used rust free staples on the bottom of the bunks. Put on bunk pads to save the carpet but they cracked after several years. The bunks/carpet are still in real good shape. My boat is a 2000 Pro Team16 Tracker and probably has about 100 plus trips with the newer bunks. Here is a sample of the bunk pads(not my trailer).....

Yep, those look good, but I don't think you're supposed to use them on riveted hulls like I have tho.
 
My bunks are original to the trailer and are pressure treated. I replaced the carpets twice in 17 years(needs to be done again). With the boat sitting on them they don't see bad weather & sun. They aren't sitting in water very long and they dry out quick. I also spray them down with silicon every two or three times I launch so the boat slides real easy.
 
I used treated 2x4s and cap them with PVC and that was too slick so I then just wraped them in outdoor carpet...so now if the carpet wears through I wont have any worries...but it hasn't and I've had mine on there about 3-4 years although my boat is stock and not very heavy and it's pretty secure when I tow it..so there isn't much sliding around.

JON
 
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