Bus Bar Help

I need some help picking a bus bar. I've searched the boards and hear them mentioned a lot, but oddly enough I havent seen too many recommendations out there for one to pick.

I am looking to hookup Nav. Lights, Depth Finder, Bilge Pump and a 12V Accessory plug to a switch. I have the switch, just need the busbar.

Here is what I am looking at....will it work?
https://bluesea.com/products/2314

Any other suggestions out there?

Thanks in advance. Gathering all of my parts for my upcoming build.

JFDBasser said:

I need some help picking a bus bar. I've searched the boards and hear them mentioned a lot, but oddly enough I havent seen too many recommendations out there for one to pick.

I am looking to hookup Nav. Lights, Depth Finder, Bilge Pump and a 12V Accessory plug to a switch. I have the switch, just need the busbar.

Here is what I am looking at....will it work?
https://bluesea.com/products/2314

Any other suggestions out there?

Thanks in advance. Gathering all of my parts for my upcoming build.

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You're hooking all those items to one switch? Like a big battery switch or something?

Yeah, its a six gang splashproof switch made by Seasense. I red the directions that came with it and it said to use a busbar for the negative connections.

JFDBasser said:

Yeah, its a six gang splashproof switch made by Seasense. I red the directions that came with it and it said to use a busbar for the negative connections.

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I don't see why it wouldn't work, I'm no expert but those are pretty simple things. I need some switches myself, do those come wired? Fuses built in?

Same here. it seemed like it would work....think I'll give it a try.

The switch looks pretty nice for what I need. It is prewired with fuses. looks simple enough to hookup.... iboats.com had great pricing on them.

this bus bar should be fine for what your installing. It needs to be big enough to handle the entire load of your switch panel at once but you should have an extra spot for future expansion. Add up the max amp of each item
3A fishfinder +
5A Nav lights +
5A pump 1 +
30A troll mtr+
20A accessory plug = 63 Amps (you get the idea)

I'm sure someone on the boards can give you a more detailed explanation on how to figure for amp load. This is how it was explained to me by a boat mechanic. hope this helps.

I pretty much agree with the above post ,except the trolling motor.
I'd hook the trolling motor up direct to a battery,with it's own breaker/fuse...no bus for that.

Thanks for the reply's...appreciate the info.

The TM, MinnKota PD55, is going directly to the battery with a 60amp breaker on it...... man 6ga wire is expensive....

cabelas has tinned 6 gauge on sale for 1.49 foot

ARE YOU HOOKING UP THE NEG SIDE TO THE BUSBAR ? IF SO I JUST MADE MY OWN OUT OF A PIECE OF NYLON, 3/4" THICK, RECESSED SOME MACHINE SCREWS, THEN EPOXIED THE BACK SO THEY COULDNT BACK OUT 1 WIRE TO THE NEG BATTERY POST MADE JUMPERS BETWEEN EVERY PIN. WALLA :wink:

JFDBasser said:

Thanks for the reply's...appreciate the info.

The TM, MinnKota PD55, is going directly to the battery with a 60amp breaker on it...... man 6ga wire is expensive....

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I've been looking at the 6 awg duplex on here.

https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3

or the regular is $1.19 a foot but you have to buy twice as much.. pos. and neg.

that's a good price!

Thanks for the link on the 6ga wire.... Might have a hookup from a dealer, if not I'll be ordering some.

Zum said:

I pretty much agree with the above post ,except the trolling motor.
I'd hook the trolling motor up direct to a battery,with it's own breaker/fuse...no bus for that.

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I agree with this too. Some TMs need to be electrically separated from fish finders as they will cause noise/interference. Mine is a prime example.

I ordered the same switch you did from iboats.com. Got my 6 AWG wire from Genuinedealz.com for $1.24 per foot and free shipping. Here's the link... https://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Grade%20Wire/Marine%20Battery%20Cable/6%20AWG%20Battery%20Cable%20UL/?sck=14560242

I also shopped around and got a 6 gang marine fuse block with built in negative bus bar for $15 with shipping on ebay. I think you can get them for less, but I liked how this one had the negative buss bar built in. My trolling motor will be hooked to my Minn Kota power box which has a built in 60 amp breaker. The fuse block will be wired directly to the battery inside the power box.

That's the first time I have heard someone say that the trolling motor can mess up the fish finder if hooked to the same battery. I've been debating just using the deep cycle battery for my trolling motor and buying a small ATV or lawnmower battery to power my lights, FF, and pumps.

That's the first time I have heard someone say that the trolling motor can mess up the fish finder if hooked to the same battery

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My last fish finder worked fine with it being connected to the trolling battery...my new Humminbird does not. Every time I would turn the troller on, the graph would go haywire. There is a setting to adjust and correct this called "noise filter", and it does work, but I simply moved my fish finders to my cranking battery and don't have the problem any more. Humminbird told me that it's more of a problem if you have a troller with digital features, which I think are found more in the Min Kota brands...but I'm not sure. Mine has a digital safety for motor heat, but that's it.

What kind of Minn Kota and fish finder do you have? I just got a Minn Kota Edge 45 and a Hummingbird 170. Neither one are the high end models, but I wonder if I'll have the same problem.

Cory5129 said:

What kind of Minn Kota and fish finder do you have? I just got a Minn Kota Edge 45 and a Hummingbird 170. Neither one are the high end models, but I wonder if I'll have the same problem.

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I have an older Motor Guide Pro 6700 24V troller and Humminbird 597ci HD DI Combo in the front of my boat. Tech help at Humminbird told me about the interference issues with the digital trollers. I was having problems....until I rewired my Humminbirds to my crank battery.

Thanks for the info. I'll just keep mine hooked to the main battery and use that as a deciding factor if I start having problems. If that happens, then I'll buy a lawnmower battery for the FF and lights. No need for 2 full size batteries since my motor is a pull start.

I use a fused switch panel and a bus bar. Ground your battery to the bus and your switch to the bus. Run your accessories hot wires into the switch and ground them to the bus. I was pretty nervous at first, but once you lay everything out, and have a diagrammed plan, it all comes together pretty smoothly.