Motor/electrical problem... with picture

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jethro
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by jethro » 24 Aug 2016, 09:48

My boat is a 1992 and pretty much untouched since then. 14' Starcraft with a 25hp side console, electric start. Has run like a top for the 4 years I've owned it. But recently I'm having engine trouble that I believe is electrical. About a week ago I went out and boat started fine, I ran for maybe 20 minutes then shut it down for a few, then when I went to restart it cranked for a split second then completely dead- no click or noise or anything. Then I was able to pull start it and it ran fine for another half hour until I got back to the launch.

Then last weekend I took it out and it would not start. No click, no nothing. I also could not pull start it, no matter where the key switch was. I checked all the fuses and found no problems there. I jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and the starter cranks hard and perfect, but the motor has no spark. The safety tether has been suspect for a while, so I took that out of the circuit since it's easy, but that was not it. I believe it is the ignition switch itself, since it's the only thing that would kill juice to the starter and spark to the coils.

So I figured I would replace it, but that is not as easy it seems, because the original ignition all the contacts are epoxied. How can I replace this igniton switch, since I have no idea what all the wires do? And why does a simple ignition switch have so many wires? Even a car, motorcycle, snowmobile- everything I have ever worked on the ignition needs 3 or 4 wires total. I'm lost and any help or advice as how to proceed is appreciated.

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I fish, therefore, I am.

1993 Starcraft SF 14 DLX side console with 25 hp Mercury 2 stroke
2003 Sylvan 2100 Profish walkthrough with 150 Mercury Saltwater and 6hp Mecury 4 stroke kicker

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DaleH
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by DaleH » 24 Aug 2016, 09:54

Find schematic of your motor brand switch on-line and you'll find info on the wiring codes and locations.

As per these examples, for an OMC switch - http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html
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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

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FishinLite
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by FishinLite » 24 Aug 2016, 10:00

It looks to me as if someone has replaced the switch before. The PO used epoxy to hold the wrong sized lugs in place. You didn't mention the motor brand, model, or year.

Good luck :D

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jethro
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by jethro » 24 Aug 2016, 10:35

It's a 1992 Mercury 2 stroke 25HP remote. The eyelet crimps appear to be screwed onto the switch correctly, it just appears they epoxied the contacts. I think.

I found a wire schematic, but the colors at the motor are not the colors at the switch. It's really a cluster#@$% of epic proportions. I'm disgusted at the wiring situation of this boat... this is what is under the stupid console- a rats nest:

Image
I fish, therefore, I am.

1993 Starcraft SF 14 DLX side console with 25 hp Mercury 2 stroke
2003 Sylvan 2100 Profish walkthrough with 150 Mercury Saltwater and 6hp Mecury 4 stroke kicker

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jethro
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by jethro » 24 Aug 2016, 10:40

DaleH wrote:Find schematic of your motor brand switch on-line and you'll find info on the wiring codes and locations.

As per these examples, for an OMC switch - http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html
Well, that article explains why there are so many wires there. That's big time helpful, Dale- thanks.
I fish, therefore, I am.

1993 Starcraft SF 14 DLX side console with 25 hp Mercury 2 stroke
2003 Sylvan 2100 Profish walkthrough with 150 Mercury Saltwater and 6hp Mecury 4 stroke kicker

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enginerd
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by enginerd » 24 Aug 2016, 13:16

There is a color code that should be followed for vessel wiring (ABYC wiring standards), which might help you decipher what some of those tangled wires are for (purple should be instrument cluster, yellow/red should be the starter, etc.), but there's no telling if the PO followed convention (probably not). I'd guess you're in for a fun time of tracing wires.
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent

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DaleH
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Motor/electrical problem... with picture

Post by DaleH » 24 Aug 2016, 13:27

enginerd wrote:There is a color code that should be followed for vessel wiring (ABYC wiring standards), which might help you decipher what some of those tangled wires are for (purple should be instrument cluster, yellow/red should be the starter, etc.), but there's no telling if the PO followed convention (probably not).
CAUTION - Those will also denote only the generic ones ...

I have encountered differences in ignition and motor wiring colors when working on different brands. One should not assume ... (I know that is not what you meant ... :wink: )
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

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