Indiana Jet Jon Build

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JJ36

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Well about 2 months ago I started I budget jet jon build. I started with a non working 90' seadoo with a swapped 89' 587 (didn't know that at the time) Tore down the motor and did a top end rebuild. The guy before me must have let the engine bay fill full of water (saw water line inside the ski lol) Then I picked up a 1436 Lowe flat bottom with a trailer for cheap.


Motor rebuilt



An the fun began
 
So I cut down the ski haul and made my cuts in the jon. Lots and lots of test fits.


Build a new transom that was trimmed to fit the pump.



Bolted it up for a test fit before I seal her up for good

Any suggestions on what to use as a sealant. I was going to use liquid nails heavy duty and silicone. But I have heard of guys using polyurethane. what is it and where would a guy get it?

jon surface prep for bonding
 
Welcome to the insanity. 3M's 5200 is pretty much the standard for marine no leak-um seal-um goop on parts you don't plan on taking back apart. Lowe's sells it.

Boat looks good. I think you'll like how it turns out once you get the bugs worked out.
 
Thanks for the sealant advise guys

picked up a reverse gate from a 95 seadoo. Direct bolt up
 
If you are dead set having a "budget" jetjon, there are other adhesive caulks out there that will get the job done without the price of 3M 5200. Any of the polyurethane caulks such as "quad" from homedepot will form a rubberized barrier and also will bond a variety of substrates assuming they have been degreased, sanded and cleaned thoroughly. Another brand of caulking that is amazingly strong and waterproof is Geocell, you can purchase it at any roofing/siding supply company it is very good stuff. That having been said, 3M 5200 has been used in the marine industry for a long time and is made for this very type of application (well, maybe not jetjons...) but it is very expensive for something that is shot out of a tube. Good luck and let us know how she performs!
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=355906#p355906 said:
bnt5 » 15 Jun 2014, 22:18[/url]"]If you are dead set having a "budget" jetjon, there are other adhesive caulks out there that will get the job done without the price of 3M 5200. Any of the polyurethane caulks such as "quad" from homedepot will form a rubberized barrier and also will bond a variety of substrates assuming they have been degreased, sanded and cleaned thoroughly. Another brand of caulking that is amazingly strong and waterproof is Geocell, you can purchase it at any roofing/siding supply company it is very good stuff. That having been said, 3M 5200 has been used in the marine industry for a long time and is made for this very type of application (well, maybe not jetjons...) but it is very expensive for something that is shot out of a tube. Good luck and let us know how she performs!

thanks. on this area I feel its important to buy the right stuff. I will be buying the 5200 tomorrow. honestly i have realized if i want this to work and look the way i want it i will have to forget the budget lol
 
I opted to use the Loctite PL S-30 Polyurethane sealant over the 3M 5200 because it holds it shape much better when dispensed from the tube. 3M 5200 is too "runny" for my liking, and I didn't want to have it drip out of the seam before it could cure. I was also not comfortable with the amount of flex it would retain after cured, since fiberglass and aluminum would have different expansion rates I wanted something that would remain flexible. 3M 5200 gets harder than the PL S-30.

I hope you plan on bedding in the jet ski hull with fiberglass once you've joined the two hulls together, you will need lots of reinforcement in the motor mount area, and where the hulls are joined. If you don't glass all of that in, extending the footprint out to the width of the jon boat, the union will flex and leaks will develop.

Look forward to watching the build, looking good, keep it up. :D
 
Loctite PL is some GOOOOD stuff, I their products alot in the construction biz. Don't you think the combination of sealant/adhesive and stainless steel fasteners with fender washers would be sufficient enough to hold the two surfaces together without movement? Just curious as I am coming into that phase hopefully in the next week or so.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=356283#p356283 said:
bnt5 » 1 minute ago[/url]"]Loctite PL is some GOOOOD stuff, I their products alot in the construction biz. Don't you think the combination of sealant/adhesive and stainless steel fasteners with fender washers would be sufficient enough to hold the two surfaces together without movement? Just curious as I am coming into that phase hopefully in the next week or so.

That combination with PL will provide a reliable seal, but it will not prevent the joint from flexing. It needs to be reinforced with fiberglass to keep that union from being able to flex, the last thing you want is stress cracks developing in the aluminum.... that causes boats to sink. After you bolt everything down tight, step into the hull and see how much it still moves.... you will understand what I'm warning you about then. I built my jet jon almost 2 years ago, and close to 1000 miles so far, without a single problem. So while my way might not be the only way, it is a proven way.
 
I second that about the reinforcement. Although mine is a welded build, you'll notice that I used a sheet of 1/4" aluminum across the entire floor of the engine compartment, to spread the weight out over the largest area possible.

Like painless tom, I have close to 1000 miles on the inland rivers of SC on my boat, and who-knows-how-many miles out here in the saltwater marshes, with plenty of days of riding in choppy water, plenty of hitting boat wakes, doing 180 spins, and anything else that could put tremendous stress on a hull. After running like this for almost 9 years, with 2 engines (first one was a 2 stroke, this one is a heavier 4 stroke), I know for sure that using that 1/4" plate was a good call. =D>
 
Listen to those guys, they won't steer you wrong. Now that I know my motor runs good I am fiberglassing it in. I plan on doing inside the boat and some outside when I know my spoon is correct. Right now when I run it, with a little water in the boat, the water dances because of vibration. I'm not talking about a ripple, I mean it literally will vibrate itself an inch in the air. Kinda cool to see but hard on the aluminum hull. My plan is 4 layers of fiberglass from side to side on the inside of boat.
 
Thanks guys

Tom- my plan is to glass the whole rear section in from one side to the other.

Unfortunately I got side tracked this week. Got tired of lifting the pump and motor in and out of the Jon so I had to build a overhead winch system. I should be bolting down and fiberglassing by the weekend.
 
Its kind of off topic but here's the electric hoits I put together to save the spine.
I uses a round rail that's normally used for barn doors with a 600 lb capacity

Lag bolted 4x4 blocks between the 2x6 truss members then lag bolted the round rail to it
IMG_20140618_231902891_zpsf4fe0da7.jpg

Then i took a harbor freight 440/880 lb electric winch and removed the brackets and installed the roller wheels on the steel housing. And boom a movable electric hoist. I plan on taking a retractable extension cord and mounting it at the one end and remove the brake so it moves freely. Also want to develop a locking system so it stays in one place when I need it to. But all in all it will work well I think.

 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=356618#p356618 said:
JJ36 » Yesterday, 21:40[/url]"]Its kind of off topic but here's the electric hoits I put together to save the spine.
IMG_20140620_205007843_zpshug3lt4j.jpg
[/url]

Holy s$%^&! It's a DeLorean! :shock: Those were pretty awesome cars, and truthfully, they still are. I have yet to see any other automobile that uses stainless steel for its body.

Your lift looks like it's mounted nice and solid, and it will definitely save your back. Good call!
 
PSG-1 said:
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=356618#p356618 said:
JJ36 » Yesterday, 21:40[/url]"]Its kind of off topic but here's the electric hoits I put together to save the spine.
IMG_20140620_205007843_zpshug3lt4j.jpg
[/url]

Holy s$%^&! It's a DeLorean! :shock: Those were pretty awesome cars, and truthfully, they still are. I have yet to see any other automobile that uses stainless steel for its body.

Your lift looks like it's mounted nice and solid, and it will definitely save your back. Good call!
Back to the future baby! Haha. Very nice car and great idea with mounting the lift.
 
Thanks for the comments on the car. I've had it since I was 14. Not fast but man is it cool and fun to drive.


OK so did about 20 test fits with new hoist system. Works very well. Made a short video.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Lp8gKfMo2yo

Tried to video the whole install from that view but I ran out of space. It would have been cool to have sped it up and seen the whole thing. Oh well. Here are some finished pics.

 

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