Convert 1660 to jet ?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Fordracing2105

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
95
Reaction score
0
Location
York pa
I have a bunch of questions and looking for advice. I have a 16' 60" flat bottom I'm considering putting a jet on.
I want to put uhmw on the bottom. What do I do about the exposed ribs? I'm also considering cutting the bottom off and putting a smooth bottom on and covering with uhmw. Looking for advice. Will the boat even turn at this point?
Next would be rebuilding the transom getting rid of the plywood making a tunnel and maybe flotepods. Thoughts?
Console would be up front against the deck
With troller batts and fuel in the rear. Other than that floor will be wide open. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428880309.076464.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1428880328.299901.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1428880340.421457.jpg
 
Or do I just look for a 1756 mv and put a jet on that. I have a 60hp merc that I'll be putting a jet on.
 
assuming ur rib runs the whole way to the transom you may need to remove about 12-inches of the center rib to make it flat. I'm guessing you could have that done for a couple hundred $$ by a local welder. Aside from that I think that hull would work nicely with a 60/40.
 
All of my welding will be done by me and a buddy of mine or my brother depending what it is I'm not the best at welding aluminum yet.
The other thing is this boat has a combo of rivets and welds. The only thing riveted in is the cross braces in the floor.
 
Not sure about posts on this site but I know I have ran across them in the past about adding uhmw to .100 hulls. The list of pros is much smaller then the cons. Not sure that i have ever ran across someone that said they would add it to another .100 hull again. If it was me I would run it the way it is with a objet. If you are able to weld that is a big plus when learning what you can and cannot do on rocky rivers. A light .100 hull that is setup light can surprisingly handle some pretty hard hits without opening up.
 
Everybody has their own preferences, but I'm with the above post... I wouldn't even consider the UHMW on that boat. It adds weight, increasing needed Hp. I've never personally owned a boat with it, but the few guys I know who did and ran their boat fairly conservatively, ended up getting rid of the UHMW boat and going back to a normal hull. If your primary desire is to be able to go WOT thru the more knarly sections of the river, then maybe a UHMW hull is the way to go but if you're somewhat cautious, I just don't believe it's worth the added expense, both initial and long term, and added holes thru your bottom (rivets).

I would guess I run a lot of the same stretches of the Susquehanna you intend to and in many years of doing that I've only ever put 3 holes thru a hull. All of those in my younger days when I was more daring. Last 2 boats, nothing but minor dents.

Beyond that, enjoy your boat and setting it up just how it suits you. Everyone has to find their own preferred set-up and what works for them. Sometimes it takes a couple boats to figure it out or your ideas change.

Personally, I like my console nearly centered in the boat for several reasons and then I balance the rest of my weight around that. Prefer TM batteries up front to minimize cable lengths and stable, unchanging forward weight. Fuel tank in the rear to keep fuel lines short and exposed to be able to deal with replacement and any issues like frozen condensation in the fuel line shutting me down. I run a lot in the winter & it happens.
 
Well I guess I should try to leave the bottom alone for now and try it. I will be redoing the transome and making a tunnel to help protect the pump. Should I put flote pods on? I like the idea of the console up front for the open floor and being able to read the water. I put a forward console on my other boat I'm building at this time but didn't have it on the water. If I'm up front there will be one or two people setting in the back mostly. I don't think I'll be running up through rocks at wot I would feel really bad if I hurt someone with me. Right now my boat will plane at around 10mph. I swears he susky grows new rocks everyday.
 
if your really thinking you want to cut the bottom of your boat off and rebuild the hull i think it would be a lot more cost effective to get into a completely custom build boat such as this. that way you can build it however your heart desires. all the guides in this area use these boats.
https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/boa/4925262904.html
 
I wouldn't entirely take the hole bottom off just the aluminum sheet on cross braces. And 8000$ is out of my range for a boat like that although I would love to have one.
 
You may just want to try it on the boat the way it is. With the tunnel, you will lose some flotation at the back of the boat. If you don't like the way the boat handles as is with the jet, you have no added cost of adding the tunnel if you decide to get another boat. If you try it out early in the season before the rocks start to appear you might be safe.
 
Fordracing2105 said:
I swears he susky grows new rocks everyday.

:LOL2: Yes it does.

Don't know what to tell you about the pods other than take your mods one step at a time. You may not need them.

My current boat doesn't even have a tunnel and I've never felt handicapped by it.
 
I wouldn't attempt to put UHMW on a .100 hull. The experts all say a minimum of .125 so you have enough threads in the aluminum. My boat has UHMW and I wouldn't be without i t on that boat. It is a higher hp boat that is heavy. My small light boat does not have UHMW. It is light, not as fast and not needed. If you are careful with a .100 hull, you will be fine. You will just have to be careful at summer lows and pick your spots.

Scott
 
If I were to put uhmw on it would be after I re skinned the bottom. Good to know about the thickness thanks.
 

Latest posts

Top