Tin boat fly fishing projects?

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wlshafor

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Anyone fly fish or designed there tin craft around fly fishing?

If so please post up pictures make and model so I can start looking for something to build for me and my daughter.


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wlshafor said:
Anyone fly fish or designed there tin craft around fly fishing?
Boy, I can't recall any one specific conversion here but would think it would rely on 3 objectives, like:

  • Stability
  • Low profile
  • Dedicated flyrod storage/access

Stability - Not sure what hull you're thinking of converting, but if standing up to cast, keep the stability in mind. I now run a 16' heavy compartmented & bulkheaded hull, with floor ... and the sheer weight means I can even stand on the side next to the gunnel and the hull doesn't tip enough to throw me overboard. Two of us can flyfish from it as long as we time our casts ... and watch the wind. As those 'Clouser ear rings' hurt! The weight gives it stability, but the trade-off is that one would need a minimum of 40hp (IMHO) for decent performance.

My old boat was a 14' tall-gunnel (topsides) V-skiff with an 18hp OB and I could flycast from it standing up. This was a simple skiff, barest of wood floor, as in just enough to be able to step across each of the 3 seats to move from bow to stern without tripping over ribs. Up forward one had to remain centered in the boat. Towards the stern I could case from either side of the hull and in calm waters could and did stand on the rear seat to cast, but that also just more so helped my sight fishing and with my casting ability ... gave me a little more distance, haha!

I'm not into jon boats, but from everything I've read here, you'd want the widest beam you can get for your target length hull ... to give you more inherent stability.

Profile - Keep vertical and deck/gunnel obstructions to a minimum. In a smaller boat you'd probably want to go for a tiller motor over a console/control model. Flip up cleats are less apt to snag a line and for fender cleats or etc around the hull, on my smaller boats I just use a SS ring bolt, mounted a few inches down below the tops of the gunnel. Simple to use, just pass rode through the ring and tie off a 'figure 8' stopper knot. Keeps the gunnels free from line-snagging objects.

Flyrod Storage/Access - Wow, REALLY depends here on the model/design boat you go with! To me, there are 2 considerations - storage and access. Storage has to keep those delicate tips safe! When I had bigger saltwater boat, we'd rip PVC tubes into carries and place them down the sides of the gunnels. Like picture shown.

Tip for smaller boats - Use the larger diameter tube for the rear, the part where the top is cut open, then use a step-down joint to the smallest diameter tube (keep as full round tube) to completely house the forward 1/3rd or so of the flyrod length. Works slick! And prevents someone from breaking the rod ... hopefully! NOTE in smaller boats that the front part of the tube will follow the curve of the boat if a V-Hull ... so do NOT store you rod in these holders for days or weeks on end ... or they will take a set :shock: ... ask me how i know? At least I learned that from a good friend's expense, haha :lol: .

For access, I'm partial to these Bluewater design vertical rod holders. Not cheap, but they keep my flyrod ready for use. i have this attached to the side of my control console, but on a simple open boat, I'd attach the vertical bulkhead on maybe the middle seat, so from the driver's position, one could just reach forward and grab it if/when you ran into breaking fish.

Hope these ideas help! Give us more ideas what YOU need and we can be of more help.
 

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as a beginner fly fisher, I need half an acre of clear area
to cast....... I would look for a hull that can give you the
free (unobstructed) area that suits your casting skills the best.
Dale - wow - I have not seen that rod holder before and it is simply awesome.
that style will definately be incorporated into my next bass boat.
good find !!!
 
Nothing fancy here, but I live in fly fishing country. I'd cover the back too, but my old body needs to be comfortable when steering the boat. Have fun!
 
Wow thanks for the info now time to buy items for my build


If you don't slow down in life to take in what's around you before you know it you'll blink and miss your whole life.

-Warren L. Shafor
 
I would think you want something wider to keep it stable so depending on the length of the boat, a 1660 to 1872 would probably be the models to look into. A floor is nice but sides aren't really necessary unless you're worried about possibly snagging on the ribs, then sides would be useful. If you plan on going with a center console, you might want to buy that separately so you can decide where you want to mount it. A more forward console will probably give a better split of casting space for the front deck and the back of the boat so you aren't getting in each others way. The SeaArk 1660 or 1872 would probably be my first choice but get your own console.
 
I built my AlumaCraft MV 1648 NCS specifically for fly fishing from the front deck. I try not to clutter up the boat with things like additional people and gear. My front deck only has the trolling motor mount sticking up and occasionally the trolling motor. I always carry a towel to lay over the motor or mount to eliminate fly line snags. This picture is terrible but I think you can see what I mean.


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not a jet but it was built to fly fish.
 

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My boat is 100% designed to fly fish out of. It's a SEAARK 1652 with a 50/35 Tohatsu and flotation pods in the rear. Less is more on my boat. It's set up to run up river then row like a drift boat on the way down.
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The boat is a mess right now as I've pulled the engine and am about to do some much needed bottom work. Fly rod holders are the 90 degree type probably made to hold rods in a vertical position but I punched holes in the rear bulkhead and rammed out the foam with some PVC. Holds 4 rods easily and 8 without much trouble.

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Twc4,
I am looking to add oarlocks to my 1648 Riverskiff. The
gunnels are rounded like yours. Where did you locate
those mounts and how are they mounted.
thanks,
super5
 
Digging your rod holder idea.

What type of cooler, tackle box is that green bag? Looks to be water tight,flexible, and have a carry handle that's nice.


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super5 said:
Twc4,
I am looking to add oarlocks to my 1648 Riverskiff. The
gunnels are rounded like yours. Where did you locate
those mounts and how are they mounted.
thanks,
super5

Both the locks and towers are from NRS and mounted with a drill and the provided U bolts.
I think the towers are the 4" variety and the locks are the Cobra ones.

Let me know what other questions you may have.

Winston...


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Catch Release Repeat said:
Digging your rod holder idea.

What type of cooler, tackle box is that green bag? Looks to be water tight,flexible, and have a carry handle that's nice.


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Ya man!
The cooler is a YETI 45 with an NRS low back rowing seat bolted to it.

The green bag is an older Patagonia "great divider" I LOVE THEM!!! And have a few of them they're pretty much a bag that does it all. I'm sure the new ones are just as awesome but I dig the old ones and keep an eye out for them on EBay. You'll be shocked by how much a beat up used one goes for but "Buy once Cry once" is appropriate here. Could be the last boat bag you buy.

The rod holders were a long process of over thinking them...Paralysis by analysis...I knew exactly what I wanted I just thought about it way to long before wondering in to amazon.com and actually seeing how easy it was to use. I think anytime the answer to a problem includes drilling large holes in my boat I get slowed down a little.

Let me know if ya have any other questions.

Winston...
@austinonthefly on instagram lots of fishy boat pictures there.


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TWC4,
Checked out your instagram, cool boat setup you have. What length oars do you run? Do you have them mounted in the middle of the boat or offset front/back slightly?
 
This is the thread for me! I wish I had seen this a while ago. Sorry to be waking the dead a bit. I have a 1442 with a 25/18 set up with oars. Very similar to TWC4's ( I recognize that rig btw) only super low budget. I figure with the places I run and the rock gardens my water there is a high probability that she might not make it home one day so don't sink the kids college fund. I bought/ built it to fish my local smallie river with a little musky and striper thrown in to get me through the winter. I only throw flies, it's just the way I was taught.
Clean deck is paramount. Nothing makes me madder that blowing a shot because the line is hooked on something.
I'll try and get some pictures up if you're interested.
 
I understand this is an old post, but, I have a hull in the shop this week and hope it to be a "motorized drift boat." I row a Hyde but can't get up river because of access.

I like some of the ideas for rod storage in this post and may build a rod tray like on my metal drift boat. (Wish I could learn to pics). https://kofflerboats.com/rmt-boats/rmt-accessories/rocky-mountain-trout-boat-anchor-systems/

One thing I must have is storage. Installed front in-deck fuel tank, a front full bench lockable deep seat (out of the Hyde) and that's where the trolling batteries go, gear, rods locker, etc. Everything else is open with tiller jet. Also adding a knee/leaning brace on the front deck, probably the best feature.

Will have to work on floor install when boat comes home.
 
This is how it came equipped from previous owner, very clean. Next week I'll see how it looks with flyfish updates. Lockable storage box extended deck, bow rail/casting brace, etc. Trying to keep it open as possible with plenty of storage, the fuel tanks go in the front deck under lid and the trolling batteries in the extended lockable deck box. Mounted the 50/35 last week.

Hope to have room to add a long deep rod tray on the right side like on the drift boat. This will handle fly rods and spin rods, we break everything down and stow when trailering.
 

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Good point. Cut a fly line one time because of that.

Plan to weld four large double bow eye cleats to the inside on all corners instead of cleats. The trolling motor will be kind of in the way, because we fish swift rivers, it will need to be 24vlt. This will replace the oars I use on the drift boat.

Haven't figured the anchor system yet but most likely a bow cleat bracket, and when running drop the anchor down into the hatch with the front fuel tanks.

I use a palm control trolling motor, helps when running single or with a clueless 2nd angler.

Need to run in clean water this winter, motor break-in and scouting. Should know what the boat needs by spring next year.
 

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