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Bugpac

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I been doing some work on my buddys boat and trailer, this is an electric only glastron bass boat, I was thinking it would loose some serious weight to de laminate the top half from the bottom half, and throw the complete top half in the garbage... Then deck the boat. I would cut the 2 live wells out of the top cast and work them into the deck... I am guessing this boat rigged weighs in the neighborhood of 2500 lbs now, If we could loose 500 lbs and make storage more ideal would be a bonus...
 

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Just make sure to re-install some bulkheads to insure structural stability. Dont want it to "taco" on you.
 
Carlf is on the right track. The cap gives the hull a lot of structural integrity; there's no way to know without removing the cap though. You will proly need to add frames/bulkheads at the very least, a sole that ties in the frames and hull sides and probably a gunnel along the sheer line, depending on the thickness of the glass, (and to close the frames). Then you will need to rebuild your storage. Unless you leave out a lot of storage you proly aren't going to see the weight savings of 500 pounds; I would need to put it on paper to be sure tho. The good part would be that it would be laid out exactly how you want it.

If it will never see planing speeds again you could go with less structure maybe. But if you ever plan on selling it I would build it to handle the speed, you could be liable if something happens after you sell it.

It will be a big project as well.
 
I've got a boat here that we took the cap off of and put a new transom and floor in and were going to turn it into a center console. The top edge of the hull does flex and will need some sort of way to finish it off. We had planned on running a slit in a piece of pvc and putting it over the edge of the hull and a couple screws to keep it there. Then we would have a smoothe rolled edge up top and it would give it some strength. However we never did finish the project. We got busy again and just never finished it. However since things are slowing down again I might just have to finish it to have something to do and something to sell.

My biggest suggestion would be to be careful of the top edge of the hull. It will weaken the hull to take the cap off, but not so bad that it couldn't be fixed. You just need to be aware.
 
probably a gunnel along the sheer line, depending on the thickness of the glass

Didnt even think about that. You are definately going to need some kind of gunnel "cap" all the way around, sorta like a rub rail but more like the rolled gunwale on non-liner boat. This add a lot of rigidity to the hull..
 
I was thinking i would deck it 1.5" down, probbaly screw a 2x4 all the way around the perimeter, right thru the hall, add my cross boards and deck with 3/4 ply, then on top of that run a 2x2 all the way around on top of the deck flush with the top of the hull, run the belt sander down for a little rolled edge, and carpet the deck, over the 2x2 and over the edge of the hull about 3/4" then reinstall all the alum rub rail... The top has a bunch of molded in seating etc that can not be seen under the decking on there now... I sure would think 500 lbs would be doable... This boat is extra heavy as they decked 3/4 ply over the glass decks already..


Not to scale....
 

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I think that any flex you get is going to rip the screws out of the hull. Plus I think that the deck is a bit high, but that is my opinion. If you put a bunch of screws in the side it might hold enough.
 
Please don't put a bunch of screws through the side of that beautiful hull! Your idea has some good stuff.

Instead of screwing the 2x4 use epoxy glue to secure it to the inside of the hull. Epoxy glue will be stronger, look better and last forever.

You will need some framing from the bottom of the deck to the stringers for support of the deck and to keep the hull from flexing. You can also use 1/2 ply instead of 3/4, make the frames from 1/2 as well and you will shed even more weight.

The gunnel (gunwale) design you have will work great; but again, don't screw it, use epoxy glue.

I would cover the whole top deck with 6 oz biax glass for puncture and abrasion resistance then carpet it (if that's what you are going to do).

I am guessing it will never see planing speeds again? If so more frames will proly need to be added for the hull sides.

Just a thought: If this hull will never see planing speeds again I would sell it and build a displacement hull. With a displacement hull you will get better economy out of your electric motors (more run time), lighter weight and probably better overall speeds. You can proly build a displacement hull for what you sell this one for, have a better fitting boat laid out exactly how you want it.

I am not trying to discourage you from modding this one, just saying there may be better options out there for ya.

If you can give me some program notes (boat size, draft, overall weight etc) I may be able to find you a better hull to build.
 
Money is tight, this is a friends boat, It work well as is, IMO it is far to old to even sell for a plaining speed boat, So i don't see any advantage to selling it... I dont have measure but it is huge, I have fished out of it with 3 guys and all 3 of us standing on the nose looking at something.. It has a deep draft...
 
For me the height of the deck isn't that important. You could put it up high, but will lose some stability. You could put it at it's current height too. You won't get much flex not ever taking it to planing speed, so you could get away with more. But you will have some flex, and with three guys in it it would be wise to tie it all together somehow. But if your ultimately looking for storage and stability I would consider taking the entire deck out of it and rebuilding it. But that is what I would do. Then I would shed as much weight as possible and rebuild it to how I wanted it.
 
I would be gutting the entire inside, This boat is incerdibly stable now, I assume weight loss will come with a draft loss as well, I dont believe stability will be an issues. there is a bunch of holes in the edge now were it is halved together, I likely would eoxy and screw, I really do not see how it being decked would let it flex at all, But i may be wrong... Thanks for the input, we may or may not do this...
 
I might be mistaken but I don't see 500 lbs of weight savings there once you replace structure for integrity and redeck the thing with plywood.
 

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