New member with a wood floor question.

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pal21

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Hello everyone.

Just picked up my first tin boat. It's a Lund WC14, deep V, absolutely stock as it came from the manufacture. First project I have in mind is to put in a wood floor. I plan on useing 1 1/2" X 1 1/2"x 1/8 alum. angle and square tubeing 12" on center for the frame and put 1/2" plywood on top of that. The span on the tubeing will be about 4' at the longest. Think that will be strong enough?

When it comes to fastening the ply, I'm a little concerned about what type of fastener to use. Screws won't have much bite going into 1/8" alum tubeing. Is this something to worry about or not?

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but after priceing alum. at Sears hardware today I might just go with alum. angle around the perimeter to make a ledge to hold up cedar 2x2's which I already have on the shelf out in my shop. The alum. angle and tubing averages out about $3.50 a foot, and I would need about a 100' all total. It would mean some extra weight, which I don't like since I've only got a 9.9 kicker, but using the cedar saves about $250. Guess I need to ponder on this a little.
 
Don't buy the aluminum from a retail store. Look for a metals supply house or online.
 
also from the metal supply store buy the full stick. I found the buying the full piece. 25' at discount steel for me, was 1/2 the price of 2 10' pieces. The cost of cutting is a big piece of the price. At discount steel they will give you 1 free cut if you by the full piece. My last trip I bought 5 25' pieces and asked them to cut them at 12 foot. I took my 12' and 13' pieces and stuck em out my passengers window and drove to a local park because they wouldn't let me cut them on site. I pulled em out and cut em shorter so they would fit in my van. I needed to do this so that I could lock it since I park in the nastiest part of North Minneapolis.

Anyway, find a local metal dealer and buy as long a piece as you can to save the most $.

You may want to check on using the Cedar. I have read that you don't want to use cedar for structural support.
 
I will make a few calls tomorrow and see what kind of price I can get.
 
Sometimes a little scrounging will get some cheap materials. I have seen lots of store fixtures, misc. shelving, etc. in back of stores that's on its way to the dumpster. Sometimes a talk with the store manager could save some $. In my neighborhood the scrappers are constantly on the prowl for scrap metal, especially aluminum and copper. All that stuff ends up at the scrap yard. Check them out...
 
You guys were right.

Made a couple calls today. I found a supply house that has everything I need. The price on the angle and tubeing runs about $1.25 a foot, cut to any length I want. That saves me about $250. Can't hardly believe the retail mark up on that stuff. I'll be going to pick up what I need this week.

Thanks everyone!
 
now that you have a source compare your quote to ordering from them online. Again, with me and discount steel, if I order online for pickup and go to their location it is cheaper then if I just show up at the counter and order what I want.
 
danmyersmn said:
now that you have a source compare your quote to ordering from them online. Again, with me and discount steel, if I order online for pickup and go to their location it is cheaper then if I just show up at the counter and order what I want.

Yep What he said, It is called "Site to Store" Walmart among others have used it for years, Save you some money that way, get it fast too! :wink:
 
Please post a pic through out your project. Looking to do the same with mine.
 
The cost of the aluminum is a major factor you need to think about in your build. The benefit is that all the framing you put into your mod will be the last time you have to do it...wood is a cheaper alternative, but you might have to replace sometime in the future. I found that 3/16 rivets work well, and self-tapping aluminum screws were the easiest to work with. There are many ways that you can secure the wood to the framing. I do not suggest using any type of glue. SS bolts and self tapping screws will work just fine. The best way to secure the aluminum framing would be to weld all joints.....if you have the means and money. I will weld everything on my next boat....just my 2cents.
 
Sarkan said:
Please post a pic through out your project. Looking to do the same with mine.

This thread is nearly 3 years old and the OP only made 5 posts and has probably long forgotten this site and thread.

You would get more info and help if you'll start your own thread and post your own questions and concerns.
 

Latest posts

Top