MonArk 14

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rtg

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Joined
Apr 11, 2010
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Location
Oregon
This is what I picked up today! I am pumped...I like what you guys have done to your boats and am looking to do the same. Any ideas? I am still looking at all the nice work on this site. It is a welded 14 foot Aluminum Jon that is 60 inches wide at the top at the widest spot. with a 20hp merc. It also came with a 35lb thrust troling motor. If there are any ideas you may have Please let them fly. Thanks. Randy

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Congrats on the boat! Id get out there and fish a few times and figure out exactly what you want. After a couple of fishing trips, youll know how you wanna modify your boat.

Welcome aboard, you got a great boat.
 
I think I am realy liking the walk through center seat. meaning cutting out the center seat and puting in a batterie on one side and cooler or storage on the other with a walk way in the center.
 
I started ripping into the monark. I went with cutting out the whole middle seat and will go with a flat bottom. I have not figured out if I want to mount a seat or buy the seat with four big legs so you can move it around in the boat. I will be usig this for duck hunting in the winter and fishing in the spring and summer. I am also going to mount a bow troling motor with foot controle and auto from the rear. Do you think I need to reinforce the spot under the original seat? Thanks Randy

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rtg said:
Do you think I need to reinforce the spot under the original seat? Thanks Randy

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Your boat looks to have good bracing running all the way across and up the sides so I see no need to reinforce it. I'm sure others will chime in here who know more about it then me though. Good luck
 
Whenever you remove a structural piece of a boat it would be a good idea to use some sort of reinforcement in its place. What I would do is make sure when you put your floors in that you brace in some stingers to the sides of those supports. It will keep the hull from flexing in the middle where the bench was removed.
 
Make the bulkhead for the front deck tie into the ribs and kill two birds with one stone. Even a piece of 3/4" plywood cut to fit tight and screwed into the sides of the ribs with **stainless steel** screws will make a world of difference. Also MonArk used 2" ribs where everyone else uses 1 1/2". Generally as a rule they use at least one more rib than everyone else.

I'd go around and rebuck every rivet on that boat and she'll stiffen up real nice.
 
Just finished with new paint. I got ahold of a bunch of military green paint...
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Looks like a brand new boat .... Looks like you even got a start on a camo trailer, add a little more green and some brown and tan .....
 
When I rivet the floor joices in do you think it is better to drill vertical or horizonal ? Thanks

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I would think you would put them in horizontal for your application so the floor could sit flush with the angle. Did you install a support piece for the middle of each angle? You may consider it if you haven't already. I can't tell from the pics how much of a gap is under the angle in the middle of each rib.

Great job on the paint, looks like a brand new boat.
 
Brine said:
I would think you would put them in horizontal for your application so the floor could sit flush with the angle. Did you install a support piece for the middle of each angle? You may consider it if you haven't already. I can't tell from the pics how much of a gap is under the angle in the middle of each rib.

Great job on the paint, looks like a brand new boat.
There is a one foot piece of redwood cut to the conture of the riv screwed down with SS in the middle.
 
rtg said:
There is a one foot piece of redwood cut to the conture of the riv screwed down with SS in the middle.

Nice. I think I would just stick a rivet in each end and maybe a screw into the redwood. I don't see why you'd need the one in the middle though if the angle sits tight once fastened on the ends.
 

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