everything steelflex

mightymite45 · Post by **mightymite45** » 07 Jul 2011, 10:14

So which is better thick or thin?

Express · Post by **Express** » 07 Jul 2011, 12:18

mightymite45 wrote:So which is better thick or thin?

Not sure if you are refering to several thin coats vs. One thick coat but imo for strength and durability one thick coat curing all at once would be better. But you still need to apply a very thin coat first which will bond to the aluminum per Jerry at Fasco. I put my 2nd and final coat on real thick on the bottom and thinner on the sides of my hull.

jonmac3569 · Post by **jonmac3569** » 09 Aug 2011, 20:34

Here is a pic of my boat I just applied steelflex too. I used 1/2 the olive drab pigment for a gallon and it is still pretty dark.

Troy M · Post by **Troy M** » 31 Aug 2011, 20:15

Hello
I have just joined this site. I have been looking at the projects on here for a few weeks and may I say I am impressed.

Has anyone used Steelfex on the inside of the boat as well as the outside?

Mojo^ · Post by **Mojo^** » 31 Aug 2011, 20:37

Troy M wrote:Hello
I have just joined this site. I have been looking at the projects on here for a few weeks and may I say I am impressed.

Has anyone used Steelfex on the inside of the boat as well as the outside?

I've seen it done but it's not advisable because it's so slick. I originally planned to go that route but have since seen the error of my ways and used Gluvit on the inside and am about to apply Steelflex on the outside. Only one or the other is really needed but I'm one of those belt AND suspenders kind of guys.

lukelona · Post by **lukelona** » 06 Sep 2011, 21:48

how much does th steelflex cost?
what do you need for tools and supplies.
how is it applied?
where can i buy it in person

BassBlaster · Post by **BassBlaster** » 06 Sep 2011, 21:59

lukelona wrote:how much does th steelflex cost?
what do you need for tools and supplies.
how is it applied?
where can i buy it in person

1. Depends how much you need. Its sold in a couple differnt sizes. 1 gallon shipped to OH was right about $65
2. All those items are mentioned in this thread. If you plan to use Steelflex, this thread is a must read.
3. Same answer as #2
4. You can't unless you live near thier location in FL. You have to order over the phone.

Mojo^ · Post by **Mojo^** » 06 Sep 2011, 22:20

lukelona wrote:how much does th steelflex cost?
what do you need for tools and supplies.
how is it applied?
where can i buy it in person

Yeah, it's a lot to sort through but there is definitely need-to-know information embedded within the 21+ pages of SteelFlex posts. Don't be afraid to call the folks at Fasco either. They are very knowledgeable, helpful and patient. I highly recommend at least one conversation with them before proceeding. Super-nice people.

Interesting note though. Fasco is now recommending prepping the surface by sanding with 30-60 grit sandpaper rather than the 100 grit I see referenced so often.

mechanicworkman · Post by **mechanicworkman** » 09 Sep 2011, 17:35

I just got done applying steel flex to entire outside of boat! This stuff was a Pain in the arse! but it works good I went with the olive drab color now that i am done applying steel flew i dont like the color as much as i did on my flat bottom can anyone tell me if they have had any success painting over steel flex i think i want to go with a grey color now!

Mojo^ · Post by **Mojo^** » 12 Sep 2011, 18:24

Has anyone ever had to drill through the hull for any reason after Steelflex has been applied? If you had to drill later to install something like a bilge pump outlet, could it possibly cause the Steelflex to crack and chip?

mechanicworkman · Post by **mechanicworkman** » 18 Sep 2011, 13:28

Mojo^ wrote:Has anyone ever had to drill through the hull for any reason after Steelflex has been applied? If you had to drill later to install something like a bilge pump outlet, could it possibly cause the Steelflex to crack and chip?

Steelflex is sandable, drillable, and the resistance to many things is awsome its pretty good stuff and yes I have drilled it without any problems!

On thing I will note is that I HATE STEELFLEX it is a fantastic product when finished but the ablility to repaint over the top of it with another kind a paint sucks per jerry at fasco you can only cover steel flex with more steel flex to me this seems like total BS I have not attempted covering with other kind of paint but thats what he said. IT IS A TOTAL PAIN IN ASS TO APPLY

I thought the customer service lady was nice on the phone but totally lacking knowledge on the product evidently the only one there that seems to know there head from there butt is Jerry and each time i talked to him he seemed to be in a rush and dont feel that he took the time to answer my questions.

Mojo^ · Post by **Mojo^** » 07 Oct 2011, 16:21

Finally, after a very long and hot summer rebuilding a 1542 Grumman Scrambler I applied Steelflex today. I used an ounce of grey pigment and added an additional 1/2 ounce of black to bump it a little darker. It's very close to what I consider a battleship grey now. I'll post pics in a day or two. The 1542 took an entire gallon of Steelflex and 6 hours working non-stop to coat the exterior surface up to the gunwale. Even at 80 degrees and only 25% humidity that stuff is very difficult to work with. I only mixed 1/2 cup of base and catalyst at a time for the first light coat and then doubled the amount for an extra thick second coat. Those who compare it to trying to paint with cake batter or honey are correct, that's exactly what it is like. I used a little different method than most people here have used. I don't know how you guys manage applying this stuff with a foam roller. I highly recommend using the phenolic core rollers made for epoxies that are sold buy U.S. Composites. I only used four rollers to do the entire boat and didn't have to worry about them falling apart.

Has anyone ever considered using a hot plate to heat-up the cans of base and catalyst to about 110 degrees or so?

duckwhisperer · Post by **duckwhisperer** » 12 Oct 2011, 12:39

How much steel flex do I need to do the bottom of a 14 ft v- hull?

Mojo^ · Post by **Mojo^** » 12 Oct 2011, 13:08

duckwhisperer wrote:How much steel flex do I need to do the bottom of a 14 ft v- hull?

Can you calculate the square footage? Jerry at Steelflex told me that 1 gal. will cover 400 sq. feet. (one light coat followd by one heavy coat) and he was pretty much spot-on with that estimate.

Firescooby · Post by **Firescooby** » 01 Nov 2011, 12:48

Mojo^ wrote:
Troy M wrote:Hello
I have just joined this site. I have been looking at the projects on here for a few weeks and may I say I am impressed.

Has anyone used Steelfex on the inside of the boat as well as the outside?
I've seen it done but it's not advisable because it's so slick. I originally planned to go that route but have since seen the error of my ways and used Gluvit on the inside and am about to apply Steelflex on the outside. Only one or the other is really needed but I'm one of those belt AND suspenders kind of guys.

So being slick is the only reason not to do the inside?

My Steelflex is on the way and was thinking about doing the floor area of the inside as well as the outside. My floor will be decked, so it won't be seen or stepped on. Main reason I was wanting to was to add double insurance to any leaks.

Thanks

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