I have an idea...

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gunz

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I have al my electrical ran tot he rear of the boat to the batteries. Been hooking them up manually but its time to finish the center console install. So here is my thought. I leave everything ran positive side to the battery thru fuses, and use the negative to run to the switched in the console. I could save running 2 wires back and fourth under the floor by making one main ground wire, then all my switched components would go thru the switch straight to ground.

Anyone see any issues that would come from doing this?
 
Wow ... huh?

There are more than a few reasons, besides 'convention' or typical installs, for standard wiring practices, think USCG, ABYC, BIA standards and such. While the voltage per side of the circuit is the same, you'll be leaving your systems energized for potential by leaving them connected 'hot' on the + side.

I'd run a main helm of 8 AWG or suitable ampacity (for your load) up to the helm. Attached is a simple VSD drawing of my current setup ... to me, it doesn't get any easier than that. Then loads at the helm only need the wire size for their amp load and length of the circuit (and remember 'length' of the circuit counts the TOTAL run to and fro from the device, so a load 3' away needs to be calculated for its amp draw being 6' of circuit length, as that is the premise for how all ampacity/minimum wire gauge recommendation tables work).

I fear - by your method - that you'd need heavier AWG than practical, on each ground circuit. by keeping all connections going back & forth to the console. Now I'm no electrical engineer, but by killing the ground you stopped the loop, but the connection + will still be live to the device, so you could ruin devices by putting them in or out of the circuit by working on a live wire.

The standard practice is also to put the circuit protection on the + positive wire in negative-grounded 12 VDC schemes. Anytime you or anyone else needs to touch that circuit/wire - remove the fuse or trip the breaker - and done deal, that circuit is now no longer energized and can be easily serviced. So I have to ask ... why would you want to do what you propose :roll: ? God forbid it causes a fire and you won't have any insurance coverage and I'd say you had liability even after you sell the boat.

Even if technically 'OK' ... I also believe, that if nothing else but for resale value purposes ... that I'd walk away FAST from such a wired boat. But hey, it's your $$ ...
 

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I appreciate your input, but we are talking about 2 components. Bilge pump and lights. That's all I am putting in my boat. ust see no reason to run that many main positive wired back and fourth under the floor with possible chafe, when I could reduce that to half the amount of wires and accomplish the same goal. Its only 4 feet or so from the battery so I am gonna give it a whirl. Just sounds way more logical to me. Thanks and happy boating.
 
I guess I could explain where the idea came from . I am an Aircraft mechanic. We have many switches that are a control to ground. If the diaphragm does or does not meet the regired pressure, the switch simply completed the path to ground by grounding out on itself. Essentially completing the circuit after the lights.


(+)--------------------(light)---------------------(switch)-(-)

Essentially what I am talking about. Simply moving the switch to after the work instead of before. Kind of a simplified drawing but you get the idea. Run one larger gauge ground up the boat under the console. then switch to ground when I want to complete the circuit. There is no need for heavier gauge wire as its the same circuit either way.
 
gunz said:
I am an Aircraft mechanic. We have many switches that are a control to ground.
Yes, I was aware that practice was used on planes, but wasn't sure of your background. And I know some newer cars switch the headlights from the ground side.

More importantly I guess ... it is the NEXT guy to own that boat that has to maintain it ...

I personally wouldn't do it, but I guess I'm old school ...
 
have no plans on selling this boat. (0% of the wiring is below the floor so there is really now way to know this is wired either way without removing the floor.

I decided to clean up the wiring as it is, and tried my plan above the floor and it works just fine. Still debating, I think I can come up with something even cleaner if I put my head to it.
 
DaleH said:
gunz said:
I am an Aircraft mechanic. We have many switches that are a control to ground.
Yes, I was aware that practice was used on planes, but wasn't sure of your background. And I know some newer cars switch the headlights from the ground side.

More importantly I guess ... it is the NEXT guy to own that boat that has to maintain it ...

I personally wouldn't do it, but I guess I'm old school ...


A lot of horns on vehicles are switched through the ground side also while everything else is switched through the positive side. Just a little info.
 
Well its done and VERY clean install. No excessive wires running back and fourth and it works GREAT. Neat , tidy and less wires than if I had ran it with positive switching.
 

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