Need help with replacing Transom wood.

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68rs327

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I need a little advice on replacing the rotten wood on my transom. It looks to me like I am going to need to remove the corner pieces which are attached with Big rivets? I am stripping the boat out now and started looking at replacing the transom wood.
Do they sell the Big Rivets? and how the heck to you install them. Or are their other ideas on replacing the wood and a better way?











 
hmmmmm no matter how you slice it, that is going to be a job.
I am a little aggressive in removing things that hold parts together.
In MY world, I would start with drilling out the rivets that I could,
cut off the rest with a 4" angle grinder. Trying to remember that most
of that stuff has to go back the same way it came off.
Find some big honkin self sealing pop rivets and get the industrial size
rivet puller from any good box store.
this one is available at Northern Tools for 20 bucks.
one bite at a time - or else you will become overwhelmed rather quickly.
Riveter.jpg
 
This looked to be a big job! I'll never understand why a boat company would put wood, that they know will rot and need replacing one day, in such a difficult place. Would have been nice it they used aluminum plate or some other material that won't rot. :evil:
I'll order the rivet gun you mentioned and self sealing rivets, thanks for the recommendation. Where's a good place to buy the self sealing rivets? I am attaching more photos of the boat. I am looking to strip the boat and pretty much have a Jon type boat and just leave the live well and casting deck and I'm thinking of using pedestal seats.
















Johnny said:
hmmmmm no matter how you slice it, that is going to be a job.
I am a little aggressive in removing things that hold parts together.
In MY world, I would start with drilling out the rivets that I could,
cut off the rest with a 4" angle grinder. Trying to remember that most
of that stuff has to go back the same way it came off.
Find some big honkin self sealing pop rivets and get the industrial size
rivet puller from any good box store.
this one is available at Northern Tools for 20 bucks.
one bite at a time - or else you will become overwhelmed rather quickly.
 
You can use regular all aluminum pop rivets above the water line.
I recently bought a couple hundred closed end rivets from Albany county fasteners.
I bought my rivet tool from Harbor freight. It will do up to 1/4" rivets.
 
You've got quite a project ahead of you. As noted, the closed end pop-rivets and a good sized rivet gun are your best option. You could also opt to go with bucked rivets if you're looking to go back to original; I've never tried it.

I echo your sentiments about the rotting wooden transom, but boat companies opt for it over aluminum to save cost. What are you planning to replace it with? Luckily, my transom is solid, but if I'd had to replace it, I was considering going with HDPE board.

Good luck.
 
Fastenal sells a good 1/4 inch aluminum rivet that i have used to replace the floor in my aluminum boat. My center console and live well are held in with them and they don't move at all.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/fasteners/riveting-self-clinching-products/rivets/blind-rivets?term=1%2F4+rivet&r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600191%20Riveting%209and%20Self-Clinching%20Products%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22612200%20Rivets%22|~%20~|categoryl4:%22600194%20Blind%20Rivets%22|~

You will need to get the big boy puller like posted above.
 
enginerd said:
You've got quite a project ahead of you. As noted, the closed end pop-rivets and a good sized rivet gun are your best option. You could also opt to go with bucked rivets if you're looking to go back to original; I've never tried it.

I echo your sentiments about the rotting wooden transom, but boat companies opt for it over aluminum to save cost. What are you planning to replace it with? Luckily, my transom is solid, but if I'd had to replace it, I was considering going with HDPE board.

Good luck.

I would have paid the extra $ for an aluminum transom anything... Most people would. :roll:
 
I just ordered the rivet tool you recommended.
I figured I need the 1/4" Dome, Close End Rivets?
Can you recommend a source and length of rivet.. I looked on Ebay at 1/4" closed in aluminum rivets, The ones I saw were $ .45 each.
I think the 1/4" rivets will work good on riveting the top of the braces to the boat?
I am hoping they will work on the transom repair?

Thanks






Johnny said:
hmmmmm no matter how you slice it, that is going to be a job.
I am a little aggressive in removing things that hold parts together.
In MY world, I would start with drilling out the rivets that I could,
cut off the rest with a 4" angle grinder. Trying to remember that most
of that stuff has to go back the same way it came off.
Find some big honkin self sealing pop rivets and get the industrial size
rivet puller from any good box store.
this one is available at Northern Tools for 20 bucks.
one bite at a time - or else you will become overwhelmed rather quickly.
 
Update:
Well, it rained about 2" last night, boat filled with water and I have about 6 rivets on the bottom leaking! :?
Need ideas on what rivets to uses, not sure how you measure rivets? Not sure what rivets are best and how do you measure the rivets on the boat? All I can go by is the round head that's showing, don't know how big the shaft is? I would like for the rivets to somewhat match.
I suppose I would use dome closed end rivets? and 1/4" is as big as my rivet gun will go... If someone could comment on the exact size rivets needed, I'll order them today.
Thanks,


 
Rivets come in grip lengths depending on the thickness of the pieces being joined. Most likely there 3/16" to know for sure what size and grip range you need you will have to remove a couple of rivets.
 

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