Riveted Transom Replace

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shane3911

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I wondering if anyone has or can point me in the correct direction of someone who has removed the entire transom. In my hast to repair the current outside skin (of the transom) I've over heated the aluminum and warped it. So I want to drill out all the rivets and replace this panel. Ideas...
 
shane3911 said:
I wondering if anyone has or can point me in the correct direction of someone who has removed the entire transom. In my hast to repair the current outside skin (of the transom) I've over heated the aluminum and warped it. So I want to drill out all the rivets and replace this panel. Ideas...
Oh boy :shock: ... you're in for it ...

I don't mean to scare you ... but I just did mine last year! A complete transom replacement of INside and OUTside tin skins, as well as an entirely new transom core!

The good news - it is done, done well and it doesn't leak :D ! The bad news - I sure wouldn't choose to do it again, at all. But see here and ASK AWAY with any questions you may have. See:
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

Note you can use wood, but I went with the pourable ceramic compound core for my rig (due to its box-like transom construction). But regardless of transom core material used, the process to REPLACE the entire transom skin is the same. I will say I learned a lot and using the tools (less hammer forming the transom) was actually a lot of fun!

But if you're up for it, it WILL be worth it! And I'll gladly help you out all I can ... at least through cyberspace :wink:
 
BTW- thanks of the link. I am wondering why you went with 5052 versus 5086 Aluminum. I'll be purchasing my sheet goods next Friday and would like to know prior to ordering, thanks
 
shane3911 said:
BTW- thanks of the link. I am wondering why you went with 5052 versus 5086 Aluminum.
Quite simple ... that's what Starcraft made the hull of, as it is strong and yet bendable, annealable and work hardens only.
 

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