1996 Crestliner Kodiak 16 fix up

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Givey1982

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Location
Oklahoma
LOCATION
Oklahoma
So I bought this Kodiak a couple of months ago. I had the motor gone through and it just needed an impeller and carb clean/adjustment. Now I am working on getting a paint job on it. Not too worried about professional finish as much as I am adhering to the boat. I have sanded and cleaned the bare aluminum with acetone. I have painted the bare aluminum and most of the rest of the boat with the Rustoleum self etching primer (rattle can). I have several holes (previous owner mounting equipment etc) that I am filling with JB Weld. The gunwale has some sections that look as if someone took a hammer and beat it. I would like to fine some filler for that if anyone has any ideas. After that and some minimal sanding I will decide if to rattle can, roll or spray it. I am torn on each of these. I have never sprayed anything but I do have a small compressor and can get a cheap gravity fed sprayer from HF.

Thoughts and opinions welcome

Loving this forum
 

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Nice rig! Check out member Johnny on this site, his signature has a great tutorial on Primer...
You should not mix product brends once you start. We recently stripped and painted our rig, the rolling did not go well, resorted to spray instead

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
The "roll & tip" process works really well, where you roll the paint on and then a 2nd person follows you and uses a foam brush to 'tip' or layout the rolled paint, achieving a superior/smooth surface finish. Working together to cover a few square feet area, where the brush always works one way in the wet paint, never back-tracking.

Many tutorials on-line about this. This is the method DIY'rs use on large boat hulls, when they don't have access to professional spray guns or the respirators for spraying volatile organic compounds.
 
DaleH said:
The "roll & tip" process works really well, where you roll the paint on and then a 2nd person follows you and uses a foam brush to 'tip' or layout the rolled paint, achieving a superior/smooth surface finish. Working together to cover a few square feet area, where the brush always works one way in the wet paint, never back-tracking.

Many tutorials on-line about this. This is the method DIY'rs use on large boat hulls, when they don't have access to professional spray guns or the respirators for spraying volatile organic compounds.

I am working alone so I guess i will try my hand at spray.
I see HF has a HVLP sprayer that says 12CFM @ 45PSI. Is that the minimum to use the gun or the max it will take? My pancake compressor is 3.5 CFM at 40 PSI will it work?
Any ideas on filling those dings in the first picture?

Thanks a lot
 
I used a product called pc-11 for some areas that need filled. Another product is called Marine tex. Check amazon, true value hardware, home depot, and lowes.
Read instructions and watch utube videos first.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
I see HF has a HVLP sprayer that says 12CFM @ 45PSI. Is that the minimum to use the gun or the max it will take? My pancake compressor is 3.5 CFM at 40 PSI will it work?



Thanks a lot
 
Well I went with a Harbor freight HVLP gravity fed sprayer. I have a Porter Campbell compressor and ran it at about 30 PSI. I was not pretty but it did spit paint out. I did the trim with a rattle can. I have some overspray from when I did the trim to touch up. I also need to cover the benches and floor with marine or outdoor carpet but it is getting closer. Here is a link to a short clip on what I used https://youtu.be/QCh8RtaTYP4.
 

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good job !! the video is a nice addition to your photos.

the PSI for a paint gun is for the incoming pressure into the handle.
there is a small air gage with a twist knob to control the pressure on the handle of the sprayer.
for thinned down Rust-Oleum, I used the same 12psi gravity sprayer
my compressor is 150psi, 20gal @ 6cfm and it works okay.......
a consistant volume flow of air will give you the best results.
if you have to spray and wait for the compressor to catch up before you can spray again
is not the correct setup if you are going to be doing several large projects
like boats, cars and trailers - it just gets frustrating.

large volume air tank, 10 gallon or larger and the highest CFM you can afford.
not horsepower at the motor - Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) out of the tank is the target.

again, good job !!
 

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