Gregor Transom

Hi All,
I had to tear out my plywood transom for my 12" Gregor. I'm looking for suggestions from anyone that had to deal with the two brackets / gussets how did you work around these? The transom had 3 ea. 1/2" pieces of plywood stapled together to make the thickness. I believe they welded the brackets in after the transom was in place. I may have to piece this together looking for suggestions.
Thanks
Mario

I have a 1990 Gregor MS 510 v hull that i am restoring for my son. The top cap of the transom is definitely welded on. If you remove the bolts it might fall right out of the slot, not sure if its glued to the aluminum too. Did you already get it out? What did you replace it with?

* MX 510

remedypest said:

I have a 1990 Gregor MS 510 v hull that i am restoring for my son. The top cap of the transom is definitely welded on. If you remove the bolts it might fall right out of the slot, not sure if its glued to the aluminum too. Did you already get it out? What did you replace it with?

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Hi,
I removed the plywood transom, now I'm just deciding what material to use to replace the old transome with. I need to build it up to 1.5" but those darn brackets are causing me to scratch my head. I'm thinking of using 3 ea. 1/2' marine plywood or the new coosa composite board. I have to do it in layers to work with those welded brackets.

No need for marine ply. Exterior grade uses same glue. Coat it with epoxy resin & it will outlast your ownership.

CedarRiverScooter said:

No need for marine ply. Exterior grade uses same glue. Coat it with epoxy resin & it will outlast your ownership.

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Supposedly marine grade "really" has no voids. Not so for exterior. If you don't hit a void with your bolt holes its probably fine, but there is a difference.

Doing the same transom here on a 14ft Gregor. I ripped the old transom out and snapped the two braces off knowing that I would need them welded back in. 2 sheets of marine ply at a hair under 3/4 inch and 3 coats of west marine epoxy got me to 1.5 inches. It will be a tight fit and need beaten up into place with a mallet before I set the screws. I made it 10 inch instead of 8 inch tall because I want to use the bottom of it to add aluminum angle to connect framing to the rear bench. It is FREAKING stiff. I'm using 8x stainless steel 3/8 bolts to attach. Holes are predrilled at 1/2 inch and inside of the holes are coated in epoxy. I figure do it once and don't cut corners. Materials were expensive but I plan to keep the boat a few years and it'll be the last time it needs a transom.

I broke mine off....My Transom need lots of work and the way i built it i didn't need them....good luck