Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

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canis521

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I recently bought this 1648 Bass Tracker that I would like to convert to a duck hunting rig.
tracker.jpg
Deck3.JPG

This is the first boat I have owned and obviously the first project like this for me so I have lots of rookie questions.

I started by removing the rotted wood in the decking.
BowFoam.JPG
MiddleFoam.JPG
LivewellFoam.JPG

The foam in the middle looks good, but I assume I should replace the foam between the livewells and in the rear compartment. Any source for replacement foam?

What are the thoughts on material for replacing the floor? I like the idea of maintenance free (?) aluminum, but cost will be a factor. If I went with aluminum I am assuming one piece per area is probably better than piecing a floor together.

After reading dicussions on here it sounds like treated plywood is not a good option. Marine plywood is expensive but definitely less than aluminum.

I will probably keep the carpet that is attched to any aluminum- it seems to be in good shape. I was thinking Hydroturf for the flooring areas- any comments on Hydroturf vs. carpet?

This site was recommended to me by someone on another forum; there seems to be a wealth of onfo here. Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions. I am certain I will have many more questions.
 
:WELCOME: A duck hunter with a K-9 screen-name?? :mrgreen: Nice boat! Why use a boat with a console for a duck-boat? I'm not a duck hunter, but most I've seen are more of an open layout?

I'm not sure if the expanding foam insulation (in a can) would work or not? Anyone know if it repels water? Decking would be your call, aluminum as you mentioned is alot more expensive, and not everyone can work with it. If you use wood, just paint or seal it well. You can get indoor/outdoor carpet about anywhere, but you might be limited to something that'll match your existing carpet.

ST
 
welcome aboard the foam in a can is not closed cell it will hold water you need a closed cell type foam ,i would go with marine grade plywood for the floor
 
dedawg1149 said:
welcome aboard the foam in a can is not closed cell it will hold water you need a closed cell type foam ,i would go with marine grade plywood for the floor
Wrong. It is closed cell. Basically the same stuff as the two part foam that was originally poured in your boat, but not cost effective if comparing it to the gallons that you mix.

I wouldn't waste the money for marine grade, unless you are building wooden hulls out of it, and I have plans for some of those in the future, and still probably won't waste the money on it. The cabinet grade plywood available at Lowes and Home Depot should be the most cost effective. We just bought a couple sheets of that to make the stringers on the canvas kayaks we are going to be building soon. The last kayak dad made lasted 20 years before he sold it, and it only used sheathing grade. I would just coat a plywood deck in spar varnish when I install it, if I ever went the plywood route (aluminum is oh so much more better. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: )
 
Thanks for the welcomes all!

I am leaning towards aluminum. What alloy would be best for this project- which would resist corrosion best? What thickness would you recommend? I can get pretty decent pricing on 24"x48" diamond plate- but it would mean seams- not sure if it would be a good idea.

There is a local company that makes all kind of foam products for construction. I would assume they have a closed cell foam product that would work. I will let everyone know what I find.

I was a bit leery of the amount of space the console would take up but I think I will be okay. I usually hunt with myself and one other plus one of my two dogs (on occasion both dogs). Honestly I am not sure what it would entail to remove/move the console and all its integrated components- like the steering wheel!
 
bassboy1 said:
dedawg1149 said:
welcome aboard the foam in a can is not closed cell it will hold water you need a closed cell type foam ,i would go with marine grade plywood for the floor
Wrong. It is closed cell. Basically the same stuff as the two part foam that was originally poured in your boat, but not cost effective if comparing it to the gallons that you mix.

I wouldn't waste the money for marine grade, unless you are building wooden hulls out of it, and I have plans for some of those in the future, and still probably won't waste the money on it. The cabinet grade plywood available at Lowes and Home Depot should be the most cost effective. We just bought a couple sheets of that to make the stringers on the canvas kayaks we are going to be building soon. The last kayak dad made lasted 20 years before he sold it, and it only used sheathing grade. I would just coat a plywood deck in spar varnish when I install it, if I ever went the plywood route (aluminum is oh so much more better. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: )
i guess i was wrong on the foam thought i had read somewhere were it was not closed cell,my bad but i will stick with marine grade plywood my boat turn out perfect and my carpet aint coming lose everywhere
 
canis521 said:
Thanks for the welcomes all!

I am leaning towards aluminum. What alloy would be best for this project- which would resist corrosion best? What thickness would you recommend? I can get pretty decent pricing on 24"x48" diamond plate- but it would mean seams- not sure if it would be a good idea.

There is a local company that makes all kind of foam products for construction. I would assume they have a closed cell foam product that would work. I will let everyone know what I find.

I was a bit leery of the amount of space the console would take up but I think I will be okay. I usually hunt with myself and one other plus one of my two dogs (on occasion both dogs). Honestly I am not sure what it would entail to remove/move the console and all its integrated components- like the steering wheel!
5052 would be the best for boat work alloys. It has excellent corrosion resistance, easily workable, bends well, welds well etc. But, you may have to settle. On my boat, I used 6061 T6, just because that is what I could get a good price on. It eliminated all possibility of bending, but it is significantly stiffer than some others. I didn't do any welding - just riveting, but the 6061 would be a fairly good candidate for welding. If you are planning on leaving the aluminum bare, you may want to go with a 3000 alloy - not as stiff, but has the best finish. Don't know the specs on corrosion resistant though.

As far as the plywood. This is my opinion, and my opinion only, but marine grade isn't worth it. It costs, what, about 90 bucks a sheet these days? :shock: The difference is that it is made of a fir, whereas the cabinet ply or better yet, the sandply (has footballs in outer layers, but isn't as fine as cabinet ply) is made of usually spruce. Spruce, in and of itself, isn't horrible for boatbuilding, and in fact, some of the kayak and sailboat plans we have call for spruce. The other difference is that in the marine ply has footballs in all the layers, whereas the sandply has it only on the outer layers. Plus, for 35 bucks a sheet, as opposed to 90, unless you are made of money, the answer seems clear again, in my opinion.
 
dedawg1149 said:
there is a supply company here were i get marine grade for 25.00 a sheet =D>
Well aren't you lucky. I can't even get the project grade sandply for that down here.
 
Bassboy1-

What thickness did you use? Did you use a single sheet to cover everything, or did you have seams? If you had seams did you do anything to seal the seam? I do plan on putting carpet or some other material on the aluminum.

Should the aluminum be attached directly to the runners on the hull or should there be a material (i.e., rubber stripping, weather stripping, etc)to dampen the metal to metal contact?
 
canis521 said:
...Should the aluminum be attached directly to the runners on the hull or should there be a material (i.e., rubber stripping, weather stripping, etc)to dampen the metal to metal contact?

If I were doing it I would probably add something between the metal surfaces.
 
I don't think I'd add anything between the metal. Say you rivet things together, anything between them could allow some movement between the parts, and that movement could either enlarge the holes, or stress the rivets.

As far as seams, incorporate them into the floorplan. If you can run a seam down the center of the front casting deck, then let that be where your hatches open, then you've only got a small section of stationary seam.

ST
 
Take a look at my project page to get a better idea of what I am talking about.
https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4077
I think there are more pictures in my other thread, that has worked its way back in the boat conversion section, if you want to search for it.

Because my ribs are 16 inches on center, and the .090 wasn't strong enough to span that distance, I used 1 x 1 square lengthwise down the hull at a closer spacing to rivet the sheet too. I bought all of my aluminum from the scrapyard used (cut offs from companies that scrap them, sheets that people no longer need and want out of their barn etc.), I had to put some seams in the deck. At each of these seams, I cut pieces of the same material, 2" wide, and riveted it underneath the seam, with 1" touching each piece.

I wouldn't put any rubber or anything under it either. Aluminum work hardens, so every time it flexes with the rubber mounting, it is weakening. Plus, the deck actually will provide more strength to the hull (jons only have side to side stringers - nothing front to back like larger hulls, so the deck will help a bit with flex there). Rubber mounting it will undo any help that the deck would provide to the boat's integrity.
 
Thanks for all the info everyone.

Bassboy1- great pictorial of your build. What is it about the carpet work you found you hated?

I was thinking my next step should probably be painting so any further advice let me know. To start with I would like to remove the stickers- any solvent work or do I need to be cautious with a reaction to aluminum?
 

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