Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

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brianb2247
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by brianb2247 »

are you located near virginia

fishing66
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by fishing66 »

Brian, thanks for your note. I tried contacting James River Jets several times and they did not respond. There is a boat welder much closer to my house who is working on the project at this time. He knows tunnel designs and jet boats cold, suggested a number of innovative improvements I hadn't thought of and says that the boat will be a river beast when he's done with it. His price was very reasonable.....tunnel, jack plate, pods, replace the factory transom knee which he says was badly under-built and a few other things. Can't wait to have the Water Wiener (it's current name) turned into the Water Wizard.

fishing66
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by fishing66 »

Here is the Water Wiener in surgery. Pods have been tack-welded on, tunnel installed along with jack plate. The pods were strengthened along the bottom and rear to protect against rock drag. UHMW will go around the tunnel exhaust to funnel water into the jet foot, which is being replaced by a Rockproof UHMW foot. This welder knows jet boats stone cold and he's doing an unbelievable job. After this, it gets 400 mils of K5 on the hull. Then I might actually use it this year? :oops: :wink:
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bobberboy
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by bobberboy »

BOAT="Bring Out Another Thousand"

Haven't heard that one before. Funny...an true

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Jim
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by Jim »

Great thread! Learning a few things reading this.


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fishing66
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by fishing66 »

The Water Wiener has been reborn as the Water Wizard. Tunnel, pods and jack plate. Tomorrow she goes to get 1/2 inch of K5 sprayed on the hull. The welder measured and said that with 1/2 inch of K5 sprayed in the tunnel, there will be an additional 2 7/8" clearance of the foot over the stock configuration. ""You'll never hit that jet on a rock" he said. Oh dear....changing the name of a vessel is bad luck, as is saying that it is unsinkable....Maybe I'll go for five inches of K5... :oops:
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brianb2247
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by brianb2247 »

nice
Last edited by brianb2247 on 05 Aug 2016, 07:40, edited 1 time in total.

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handyandy
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by handyandy »

where did the pods come from? Or did your guy make them they look good.

fishing66
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by fishing66 »

Andy, thanks for your note. They are actually Beavertail pods that have been customized. He ground off the drain plug pipes and then welded additional aluminum plate to the bottom and sides. There have been far too many instances of rock-drag ruptures to boat transoms-meaning, you slide over a rock, and on the way down, your transom gets ripped open by the rock. High-end jet boats like Snyder have a lip that extends past the bottom of the transom which will take the hit from a rock. I had this happen earlier this year and the only thing that stopped the boat from sinking was that there was closed-cell foam behind the aluminum tear. Here's a pic from another site as to what this type of damage looks like.
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handyandy
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by handyandy »

How thick is that hull? I've Just curious as I've slid over rocks a number of times they have left dents and scratches but never punctured, but my hull is 1/8" thick I was planning on making pods was going to use 3/16" sheet for them.

fishing66
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by fishing66 »

Andy, thanks for your note. The transom rupture is more common on hulls with .100 gauge or less aluminum. However, even Snyder and Rockproof, who build their hulls out of .192 minimum, put a lip at the transom. You plan to go with heavy gauge aluminum on the pods is sound as they will in fact become a transom lip. I purchased a few gallons of 2-part foam and will be filling my pods with foam to ensure that even if they are ruptured, they will not take on water. I'm not paranoid, everyone really IS out to get me :oops: :lol:

PS: the welder told me a frightening story of what can happen to even the toughest boat. He knew some guys who were driving a Snyder with .25 aluminum and .5' of UHMW on the hull. Bulletproof, in theory. They drove under an old railroad bridge and a section of track that was still attached to railroad ties was sticking up from the bottom at a 45-degree angle. It impaled the boat, stopped them dead and they both flew out of the boat. To this day, it blows my mind how much rougher river jet boating is compared to lake boating. On a lake, the biggest issues were a motor not starting, perhaps some dead trolling motor batteries, idiots on jet skis etc. Being impaled on a railroad track? Whoa.

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handyandy
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by handyandy »

holy crap that would suck and would hurt a lot. Have a friend that has a fiberglass bass boat and we will fish lakes together when he pulls to shore or to the dock he is always really careful not the let the hull scrap bottom or the dock. Cracks me up cause if we have both our boats out I'll run mine right into shore, or bump the dock, or bank he always thinks I'm being hard on it. He doesn't know the half of it hasn't been out with me on rivers scraping gravel shoals, or going over a log. The foam is a good idea I think in the pods. I need to get on it and make mine like your boat looks nice.

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brianb2247
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by brianb2247 »

though i can say fantastic upgrade, how differently does it handle

fishing66
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by fishing66 »

brianb2247 wrote:though i can say fantastic upgrade, how differently does it handle
Boat has not seen water since the upgrade as I just got it back on Friday 08/05/2016. After the welder finished up, I took the boat to Premium Protective Coatings and had 1/2 inch of K5 polyurea applied along with Wetlander Topcoat. The Wetlander needs another day or so to fully cure. There's also a bit of work to be done in the battery compartment as I'm replacing the bilge and livewell pumps with new ones and relocating the battery. These efforts were not helped by the idiots at the marina who mounted the outboard way too low and in a position where the transom jack could not raise the motor up, only lower it down. Throw in that they mis-wired the engine controls and the power tilt/trim did not work. The motor has been re-mounted so that the tip of the jet foot is even with the top of the tunnel. It's probably going to cavitate so the plan is to have a few box wrenches and ratchets on hand to lower it until cavitation stops. It would be a hoot if it did not cavitate as the foot is now completely above the bottom of the boat.
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Ranchero50
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Cutting a tunnel-cost guesstimate?

Post by Ranchero50 »

If you extend the spray shield back over the jet foot it will help keep it from drawing air on launch.