1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

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silentbravo
Posts: 67
Joined: 03 Jan 2021, 19:59
1
Location: Idaho

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by silentbravo »

5/26/2021 Update - Back to the fun stuff

Ooooh more electrical progress

Have a few things to cross off the list
New bow navigation lights on either side of the boat, with new wiring to them
New switch panels installed to console
Deep cycle AGM 35AH "accessory" battery installed for all lights/fishfinder/etc
Blue Sea Systems Dimmer switch for onboard lighting

Some of the tools used
P1000826.jpg
I finished pre wiring the 2nd switch panel. I ran a separate red wire for the Dimmable + that connects to the Blue Sea Dimmer switch, and 10AWG leads for the main positive/negative to the switch panel itself. The Dimmer wire is fully sealed with heatshrink spade connectors, and I filled the connectors with dielectric grease, so they are pretty impervious to the elements. Funnily enough this is one of 2 things that didn't work when I tested electrical... have to investigate still.
P1000828.jpg
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I cut the hole for the 2nd switch panel that goes into the console and installed it.
P1000827.jpg
Here's the 2nd switch panel installed, with the current circuits setup. Bilge pump wire is ran but not installed. Nav lights were all tested working, didn't get a picture of those for some reason, will get that later.
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Here's the main electrical center under the console with quite a bit of work done. I think my mockup board seems to be good enough so I need to rebuild it out of HDPE or thicker painted wood and mount it permanent. Also I have the Blue Sea Systems 12A Deckhand Dimmer model 7507 installed underneath the board, and the dimmer switch on the front of the console.
20210515_202308.jpg
Auxiliary Battery Install

I have a 35AH battery that I will use for all auxiliary electrical to keep my cranking battery just for the outboard basically. It will be used for fishfinders, lights, bilge pump, etc. At first I was thinking I would mount it back by the cranking battery at back of the boat, but due to some space constraints and how I want to fit gas tanks in the back, I decided to move it up near the console. There is a small deadspace just in front of the console that makes wire runs short and should work nicely.

Started with some 2x6 wood blocks to wall it in.
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It progressed to a bit more complicated structure... I put zipties in between the battery sides and blocks to create some clearance for any wood expansion that could happen.
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Here's the lid
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Continued on next post....
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1978 Starcraft SUS 16 O/B
Powered by:
1993 Johnson 48 SPL - 2 Stroke 48hp Model: J48ESLETE
1998 Honda 8hp - 4 stroke Model: BF8A
Minn Kota Maxxum 80lb electric TM
Boat build log

silentbravo
Posts: 67
Joined: 03 Jan 2021, 19:59
1
Location: Idaho

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by silentbravo »

Auxiliary Battery Install Continued

Here are the 3 circuit breakers placed for mockup. This turned out to be a good spot. One breaker goes to each switch panel (2) and the third breaker goes to the back of the boat where it will go to an ACR and a On/Off/Combine switch. It's the Blue Sea Systems Mini Add-A-Battery kit model 7649. It will allow the outboard to charge both batteries, but will automatically disconnect the Auxiliary battery from Cranking battery when not charging, so the are separate batteries most of the time.
20210516_200935.jpg
Here the breakers are mounted, and wires run into the space. I wrote what the wires go to on the duplex jacket.
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Here's one of the wire runs up to the console dash switch panel. Wire secured well to the console backing board
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The finished wiring to the battery
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I added a 1/4" Kydex strip bridging across the battery to lock it down. It really can't move anywhere.
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Once I got everything installed and pretty much figured out, I took it all apart and have been coating edges with epoxy, then will paint everything and reinstall.
20210526_191115.jpg
The breakers will get their protective red boots on final install. I will also need to build 2 spacers for either side of the battery. One side fits a 2x6 wood block, and the other side will have to be custom. I will try to add a protective boot over the positive battery terminal also, should have something that will work there.

The lid is such an odd shape that it can't really hinge to anything so I have just put a lip on the inside of it and it will just sit in place. I don't think it can go anywhere and it is strong enough that you can step on the box if needed.

There will be 1 or 2 more wires added to this battery. I will add a small pigtail with an SAE connector end, because my NOCO charger has an SAE adapter so it is really easy to connect it. I added an SAE connector end to the cranking battery last year and it makes charging really simple.

I am also contemplating adding a bridge wire/connector between one of the trolling motor batteries and this battery for a backup/reserve/emergency tie in. Technically this shouldn't be a problem. Even though I have the 2 trolling batteries in series (24v) I can pull from just one battery and get 12v. I will also have the B.O.S. Battery Optimization System installed for the trolling batteries and what this device does is equalize charge between the 2 batteries. So this eliminates the scenario of drawing down one battery more than another during usage. This should give equal wear/use to both TM batteries so they should last longer while using, and have a longer lifespan altogether.

So essentially if I make a connection between one trolling battery and my Auxiliary battery, I can actually combine the power of all batteries on the boat. The use case for this would be if cranking battery got low and couldn't start the main outboard, which shouldn't happen because it will be isolated and only used for cranking. So lets say cranking battery becomes to low to crank the main outboard. I can switch to Combine mode in the switch which will combine my Auxiliary 35AH battery and the cranking battery together. Now the 35AH battery isn't all that large and not really meant to recharge a larger cranking battery but it may help some. If combining those 2 batteries isn't enough, then I can tie my trolling motor battery (Group 27) battery to my Aux battery, which ties to the Cranking battery, now we have 2 batteries helping recharge the Cranking battery. Except, if the B.O.S. system is working as it should, when the TM battery starts being drained by Cranking battery, the B.O.S. will equalize both Group 27 batteries, essentially drawing power off both of them. That's something like 220AH of battery capacity (at full charge) available.

Kind of a wild scenario and if you read through all of this you must either love electrical as I do, or have a blank stare going on haha.

Anyhow.. I haven't messed with the B.O.S. yet or the trolling motor side of the electrical even... so that information and progress will come later.

In other news... Transom Board Installed!

Big step accomplished here. I installed the board, drilled all the holes but 2 (scupper drains remain). All of the holes seemed to go through epoxy only so we should be sealed real tight. I will have to put a few holes in it with screws/nails that won't be through holes but such is life. The main penetrations outside of the boat should be solid.

Preview shot
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Since the knee brace is broken, I have added some heavy duty aluminum angle to the sides of the brace which will be welded on and bolted through existing knee brace bolt holes. I will add pictures of that in next update post. Memorial weekend is upon us and I have 3 days to work on the boat. I should be able to get a lot done, hopefully get the whole transom area done and motors mounted back on it would be amazing.
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1978 Starcraft SUS 16 O/B
Powered by:
1993 Johnson 48 SPL - 2 Stroke 48hp Model: J48ESLETE
1998 Honda 8hp - 4 stroke Model: BF8A
Minn Kota Maxxum 80lb electric TM
Boat build log

Weldorthemagnificent
Posts: 1184
Joined: 12 Mar 2017, 12:09
5

Re: 1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by Weldorthemagnificent »

Keep up with the good work!

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk


silentbravo
Posts: 67
Joined: 03 Jan 2021, 19:59
1
Location: Idaho

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by silentbravo »

Had the whole last week off and worked on the boat most of the time, when not distracted by my nephew haha 8)

Got a LOT done, the transom is completed, wiring is probably about 90% done. I have tons of pictures but will get to them later. The last big time consuming items are the console lid and fishing rod storage in the gunnel, or probably just putting it back together the way it was and go fishing.

Time is running out for the Kokanee season and just trying to get the boat serviceable for trolling first, that will put some of the mods on backburner.

All that little stuff adds up to a lot of time... wire management, wire labeling, caulking, cleaning, prep for painting.
1978 Starcraft SUS 16 O/B
Powered by:
1993 Johnson 48 SPL - 2 Stroke 48hp Model: J48ESLETE
1998 Honda 8hp - 4 stroke Model: BF8A
Minn Kota Maxxum 80lb electric TM
Boat build log

User avatar
DaleH
Donor
Posts: 3215
Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Location: Eastern Mass

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by DaleH »

Lookin' good! =D>

KrazyAboutTin
Posts: 15
Joined: 22 Feb 2021, 15:51
1
Location: Miami,Fl

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by KrazyAboutTin »

Hello silentbravo.
I have exactly the same boat as yours, and I am involved in its restoration project right now.
I wanted to thank you for the pics and explanation of the process. They are really helpful.
There is a question I have been asking around, and, in spite of some good answers, I am still not sure which way to go.
I striped off the bottom paint of the boat using a sandblasting machine. I went down to the bare aluminum.
I found three holes(bout 1/4" each) at the beginning of each of the three ribs that go along the bottom of the boat. They were covered with paint and the sandblasting uncovered them up.
I can't figure out the purpose of those holes. Some say to live them open (the factory way), but I am afraid of salt water getting in there and not getting out, since there is no exit holes, and corrode the aluminum in that part of the hull.
I have been trying to talk to Starcraft costumer service, but that is not easy.
Please let me know your opinion about it.
Thanks

silentbravo
Posts: 67
Joined: 03 Jan 2021, 19:59
1
Location: Idaho

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by silentbravo »

Glad you are finding some helpful info KrazyAboutTin. I will take a look at my boat and see what those holes look like.

It's probably a better idea to keep them open and rinse the salt out, rather than try to block them off. It would only take a small leak to get the saltwater trapped inside, then you couldn't flush it, and/or might not know there's a problem in there.

I guess it depends on your use also. It may be worth putting a small hole at the back side of boat, through the rib only, to aid flushing water through it.
1978 Starcraft SUS 16 O/B
Powered by:
1993 Johnson 48 SPL - 2 Stroke 48hp Model: J48ESLETE
1998 Honda 8hp - 4 stroke Model: BF8A
Minn Kota Maxxum 80lb electric TM
Boat build log

KrazyAboutTin
Posts: 15
Joined: 22 Feb 2021, 15:51
1
Location: Miami,Fl

1978 Starcraft SUS 16ft - Rebuild and Fix'er up

Post by KrazyAboutTin »

Thanks buddy!
I thought about the additional holes, but I needed reassurance on the idea.
The holes were closed before I started the project, and there are sings of corrosion at the end of the ribs, where the ribs meet the hull.
I am using Gluvit all over the hull to seal any leaks around rivets and ribs in the outside. I will also apply it through the inside of the hull to be sure.
Thanks for your advice.