1974 RHYNCRAFT MAKEOVER

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 29 Oct 2021, 22:27

This boat has been a part of my life for over 46 years. The owner comming up in age, feels handling a boat of this size is not a option. So I was able to take ownership, and bring it back to life.
Posted a few pics and questions on other post in TINBOATS, but now I'm consolidating them into this thread, as my journey begins ....
I have read for many, many hours the work and techniques You Guys and Gals have put into Your project(s), and took alot of notes along the way. From those notes I have gained confidence that I can turn this "tinboat" around.
BIG THANKS!!!!!!

Heading to the barn -

20211029_133415.jpg

Converting the Kayak trailer over to the bunk trailer -

20211005_081557.jpg

Building the bunk trailer -

18409.jpeg

Trailer situated (boards not yet bolted to frame, carpet will be after boat build

18406.jpeg

Looking into the weak spots, removing all hardware, making a game plan for the transome -

18474.jpeg

Survey the "tree limb damage" - and what action to take. From some good feedback - welding is the only option ..... and that will not be a problem.

18468.jpeg

And to get this rail section straighten/rounded out -

18472.jpeg

And to correct and smooth out a few "wrinkles" along the way -

18484.jpeg

Tested the sanding today, to see what grit would attack the original base - winner was - #180 grit paper with orbital palm sander, and NYALOX DISCO 541 - 778 - 4 WHEEL poly #120 brush around rivets and tight area's.

18482.jpeg

Having a fresh pair (105 days old) of transplanted lungs - my savior was the RESPERATOR, that eliminated those fine particles.
______________________________________________________________________

As I'm working, I'm pondering the next steps regarding seat placement - open floor plan, gas can placement, seating, Bimini top & mount. It will be a 20 H.P. tiller drive w/ front mount electric motor (12v or 24v). Removing the front platform will be one of the first attacks, along with removing the transome and removing the factory primer.

.................... keep You posted. Please chime in for "Your tricks and tips" to make the rebuild last. It needs to be durable in salt water, and comfortable for crabbing and fishing for Speckled Trout & Rockfish.

NOV. 5th .........

Got below freezing last night - filled up the wood stove in the shop, and went to play ...... tearing down more of this rig.

Removed the rivets holding the transome angle brackets. Removed the hardware that attached the transome braces to the floor, and transome wall. Old transome came out in one piece. Looks like 3/4" & 1/2" bonded togeather will match the 1-1/4" needed to replace this. Need to address the cancer on the aluminum, where the transome plywood made contact.

18539.jpeg

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 05 Nov 2021, 20:26

Removed the rivets holding front platform, and rivets holding the seats to the boat sides.

18540.jpeg

Now I have a open workspace, to plan my attack & to be able to clean up loose material, buck rivets, seal rivets and paint. Also a open floor plan to apply the TREK flooring. (floor weight 245 lbs) -

18538.jpeg

Post by **Jim** » 06 Nov 2021, 07:58

Looks like you’ve done this before!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 06 Nov 2021, 19:11

Jim - never did one from start to finish .... but have done plenty of repair ... enjoying the challenge, and research put into making it happen. GREAT SITE TO REAP THE KNOWLEDGE OF OTHERS!!!

Had this bad spot along the top rail line, where a large branch made it's mark. The vote was to weld it, and I agree. One suggestion was to perhaps cut a section out, and rework the rail. I gave that some serious thought, but wanted to try a few tricks.

BEFORE:

18472.jpeg

18468.jpeg

AFTER:

18553.jpeg

18550.jpeg

18552.jpeg

Move on to the transome, before I pull out the MIG.

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 02 Dec 2021, 08:54

It does not take long for the "grocery list" to add up. Starting with a $1200 JON BOAT. Already had the trailer - so no actual cost there ($600 would be a value). New motor(s) - gas & electric = 1/2 the total cost.
Some items have not been received, so no price as of yet. (project is still under construction) -

$10,500 looks to be the total cost - boat, trailer, motors, bimini top, etc, etc
_________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Tank - $70.00 - ☆☆☆
Moller Vented Fuel Cap #621501-10 - $21.00 - ☆☆☆
Tightbond III - $9.00 ☆☆☆
Running Lights - $23.00 - ☆☆☆
Fire Extenisher - $24.00 - on list
Throw Cushion - $18.00 - ☆☆☆
Silhouette - Grass & Cattails - $86.00 - ☆☆☆
Chairs(2) @ $60 ea - on list
Chair Mounts @ $35 + pedestal - on list
Handles (4) - Front & Rear Mount - ☆☆☆
Anchor w/Rope (anchor - $.00) ☆☆☆
Trailer Bunk Carpet w/ hardware $95.00 - ☆☆☆
Treak Wood for floor $282.00 - ☆☆☆
Rod Holders - on list
Spray Paint for Silhouette (   ) - $ - on list
Bilge Pump - $52 - ☆☆☆
90° - 3/4" thru hull fitting - $12 ☆☆☆
Batteries @ $167.00 on list
Stainless Steel Transome Bolts & Nuts
Tow Rope - on list
12 volt power supply - on list
Fish Finder - on list
3-1/16 x 4-5/8" U bolts 2 - @ $23.00 pair - ☆☆☆
Muric acid - 1 gal. - @ $10.00 - ☆☆☆
Measuring Cups 32 oz. - $16.00 - ☆☆☆
12 PHENOLIC ROLLERS $20.00 - ☆☆☆
Spray bottle - ☆☆☆
J.B. WELD $16.00 - ☆☆☆
MARINE TEX GLUV IT (RM330K) - 2 lbs - $65.00 - ☆☆☆
MARINE TEX (RM305K) - 2 oz. - $20 ☆☆☆
G FLEX APOXY - $30.00 ☆☆☆
80 & 100 GRIT ORBITAL SAND PAPER - $20.00 - ☆☆☆
RESIGN/POLYBASED PIGMENT (4 - 2 oz) $50.00 ☆☆☆
Respirator w/filters - $62.00 ☆☆☆
S.S. screws for angle iron [trailer] - $15.00 ☆☆☆
Angle Iron/ lagg bolts [trailer] - $217.00 ☆☆☆
Steel Flex 9X with rollers, etc. $357.00 ☆☆☆
Asscertone $20.00 - ☆☆☆
AIRCRAFAT RIVET ANVIL $25.00 ☆☆☆
5 inch body filler spreaders (10 pack) - $11.00 ☆☆☆
Stir stixs - $8.00 ☆☆☆
HEAT GUN - BLACK & DECKER - $30.00 ☆☆☆
AIR RIVET SET (5 pc) - $14.00 ☆☆☆
Disco #541-778-4 4"Wheel Brush #120 grit (5) - $50.00 ☆☆☆
S.S. Trans. Bkts /Angle - bolts/nuts - $23.00 ☆☆☆
Drill Bits 3/16(5) - $20.00 ☆☆☆
J/C's Brazier 1/4" & 3/16" x 3/8" rivets - $46.00   ☆☆☆
1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1/16" × 48" aliumium angle (2) - $28.00 ☆☆☆
Lloyd's rivet removal tool - $150 - ☆☆☆                                                    J.C's Rivets - 200 3/16 × 3/8 & 200 3/16 × 1/2 - $64.00 - ☆☆☆
White Vinegar - $6.00 - ☆☆☆
LUMBER: 2 - 2" X 12" X 8' lumber - $28 ; 2 - 1/2" X 4' X 8' foam - $38 1 - 23/32" X 4' X 8' plywood - $43 ; 2" X 10" X 8' - $14 = $123 ☆☆☆
RAGS - $18 ☆☆☆
S.S. Fastners - $28.00 ☆☆☆
PURPLE POWER ALIUMIUM BRIGHTNER (3) - $51.00 ☆☆☆
Anti Sieze Lube - $23.00 ☆☆☆
S.S. 1/4" rubber backed washers - $12.00 ☆☆☆
LUND STORAGE BOXES (2) - $420.00 ☆☆☆
boat @ $1200.00. ☆☆☆
YAMAHA @ $4000.00.
Bimini Top - $450.00
Electric Motor - $1600

LDUBS · Post by **LDUBS** » 02 Dec 2021, 23:20

All of those parts and pieces really do add up!

Im curious about your choice of Trex decking. It is costly and heavy. You mentioned 245 lbs. I'm thinking that it being waterproof and pretty much maintenance free was why you went with Trex. And, I think a "planked" floor would look pretty good too. Like most things there is a trade-off.

Going to have a pretty nice boat when it is done.

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 04 Dec 2021, 11:52

Thanks for the "thumbs up". I feel the "TREX" will work nicely for this size boat. It may be a little bit lighter than the 245 lbs I stated - (not sure I'll use the whole 12 ft).
Pretty much on "lock down" due to the fluctuations in temperature. It's ranging from 30°'s at night to 60° in the daytime. So painting is off the "to do list" for awhile.
We still have the interior to sand, and water test the rivets in the floor. Then buck and seal the rivets that need attention.
Right now we are focusing on the transome. Made our cuts yesterday, and fitted them, to be sure we got it right.

Moved the transom to the house. (Wife not too thrilled). Needed the warm temperature for consistent temperature control in the laminating process. After laminating with TIGHTBOND III, I'll sand all the edges smooth. Then concentrate on getting a good dose of MARINE SPAR VARNISH on those edges, in multiple coats, as well as the surfaces of the transome.

18762.jpeg

20211208_164151.jpg

lckstckn2smknbrls · Post by **lckstckn2smknbrls** » 06 Dec 2021, 10:10

Since your doing spar on the transom you might consider doing the Old timers formula for sealing the wood.

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 06 Dec 2021, 10:31

THANKS!!!!

would this be the proper approach? -

"Old timers formula is a mixture of 1 part oil based spar varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. You basically wash this over the wood on all sides until the wood doesn't absorb any more. The idea is you are thinning the varnish and linseed oil so that it penetrates deep into the wood and waterproofs it to the core. It takes a long time to dry, about 3 or 4 days. Then seal it tight with straight varnish. Approximately 4 to 5 coats on all sides, especially the edges. Sand lightly between coats. Sand lightly when you finish with the varnish. Then add a oil based paint - color of your choice."
______________________________________________________________________

If I am reading the statement that I "copied and pasted correctly above:

A). I'm guessing You would be using multiple coats of "OLD TIMERS" - allowing each coat to penetrate and dry, before the next coat.
Also -
2). When putting on the SPAR VARNISH - it would be multiple coats, with a light grit sanding between coats; for Adhesive-Abrasion, to make long lasting contact.

Kismet · Post by **Kismet** » 06 Dec 2021, 14:30

BB? You are presenting a work study in how to do it correctly.

Nice to read and see.

Thank you.

Joey Bagels · Post by **Joey Bagels** » 07 Dec 2021, 10:08

New to the site, but I just had to pop in and say this is AWESOME! I’m a huge fan of repairing and restoring old things and it looks like this will be a great thread as your work continues. Lots of great stuff already. Thanks for this!

lckstckn2smknbrls · Post by **lckstckn2smknbrls** » 07 Dec 2021, 12:07

BAY BEAGLE wrote: ↑06 Dec 2021, 10:31 THANKS!!!!

would this be the proper approach? -

"Old timers formula is a mixture of 1 part oil based spar varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. You basically wash this over the wood on all sides until the wood doesn't absorb any more. The idea is you are thinning the varnish and linseed oil so that it penetrates deep into the wood and waterproofs it to the core. It takes a long time to dry, about 3 or 4 days. Then seal it tight with straight varnish. Approximately 4 to 5 coats on all sides, especially the edges. Sand lightly between coats. Sand lightly when you finish with the varnish. Then add a oil based paint, then add color of your choice."
______________________________________________________________________

If I am reading the statement that I "copied and pasted correctly above:

A). I'm guessing You would be using multiple coats of "OLD TIMERS" - allowing each coat to penetrate and dry, before the next coat.
Also -
2). When putting on the SPAR VARNISH - it would be multiple coats, with a light grit sanding between coats; for Adhesive-Abrasion, to make long lasting contact.

You don't apply old timers in coats you apply it all at once on one side until it puddles on the wood, wipe off the excess and apply to the edges. Then flip it over and apply it to the other side until it puddles then wipe up the excess and more on the edges. Then let it dry 72 hours or more.
I recently sealed a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" BCX plywood, it can be MESSY!

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 07 Dec 2021, 14:49

BIG THANKS ON THE CLARIFICATION!!!!!

lckstckn2smknbrls · Post by **lckstckn2smknbrls** » 07 Dec 2021, 16:51

One thing I do is take 4 pieces of cut off deck board and put a deck screw through them. Then when I flip the wood I put it on the point of the deck screws to hold it up off my work table.

BAY BEAGLE · Post by **BAY BEAGLE** » 11 Dec 2021, 19:03

Lckstckn - thanks for the "tip" & a great idea. I employed it, when I did the transom coating with "THE OLD TIMERS FORMULA". Got kicked out of the house with my transome , being we will be having warmer temperatures today, and I stunk up the house ...... so back to the shop. We were blessed today with 70°+ temperatures. It will drop down to the 30°'s tonight ...... but thats Virginia. Went ahead and put flood lights on both projects after I was done, to maintain a temperature to aid in drying.
Transome had already been sanded multiple times with #80 to #220 grit paper.
Vacuumed and prepped the transome with DAWN SOAP. Cleaned that up, and used distilled WHITE VINEGAR to acid wash the transome. Cleaned the area again with a clean rag, did another wipe down with ASCETONE.
Let it dry, and hit the area with RUSTOLEUM ETCHED PRIMER.
After the primer cured, I painted the area with multiple coats of Rustoleum aliumium oil based paint.

20211211_163509.jpg

18834.jpeg

TinBoats.net