Mirrocraft deep V

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JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

Just about the start a restoration on a boat that has been in my family since 67. I have been using since 2000 with a 25hp tiller. Bought a 30hp with consule, controls, steering and electric start:)
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Prowelder
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Re: Mirrocraft deep V

Post by Prowelder »

JohnnyCaps wrote:Just about the start a restoration on a boat that has been in my family since 67. I have been using since 2000 with a 25hp tiller. Bought a 30hp with consule, controls, steering and electric start:)
Lmk if you need some hatches, livewell, aluminum, etc! TrickedTinsJonboats.com

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JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

Prowelder wrote: 13 Dec 2021, 23:23
JohnnyCaps wrote:Just about the start a restoration on a boat that has been in my family since 67. I have been using since 2000 with a 25hp tiller. Bought a 30hp with consule, controls, steering and electric start:)
Lmk if you need some hatches, livewell, aluminum, etc! TrickedTinsJonboats.com

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Any suggestions for this? Coat corrison with something, cut out, rivet a patch over?
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BAY BEAGLE
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by BAY BEAGLE »

My approach: The location of where the corrosion ate threw the transom, I would gently remove the cancer, without making it bigger. Emery cloth with some grit and patience. Work the area, and remove the rust and corrosion. The other areas, I would go with the Disco #541-778-4  4" Wheel Brush - (equivalent to #120 grit) - small wire brass brush around bolt holes.
Do interior and exterior. Clean both sides with DAWN DISH SOAP. Wipe down with either white Vinegar or aliumuim brightner. Clean up with clean rag. Clean the area(s) with Acetone. When dry and temperatures correspond with label, apply MARINE TEX (14 oz container) at a 5 parts resign to 1 part catalyst. Spread this mixture with a Pudy knife or 5" body spreader over the area, and beyond where the corrosion ate threw. Do this on both sides, in a thin layer (1/16 - 1/8) thickness. Let it harden, sand if needed , and a second coat at the same thickness. On the exterior side, make a template of the transom, but only as deep (down) as the interior was - and the same width as the boat. Use a 1/8" aliumium #6061 cut to match template, for your exterior. You will need to do the same with interior side (width and height is determined by what was there) - this should somewhat correspond with the exterior. Now that the MARINE TEX is smoothed to desired shape and thickness and hardened on inside. Clean with a damp cloth. Take a tack cloth, and wipe down. Prime with RUSTOLEUM ETCHED PRIMER (spray) 2 coats allowing drying time between coats on interior and exterior. (THIS PRIMER WILL HELP STOP NEW CORROSION). When temperature is above 50°, paint 2 coats of RUSTOLEUM #7715730 Protective Enamel - 1/2 pt oil based aluminum. Paint over the area where the wooden transom would be mounted on interior, and where new aliumium plate will be installed on the exterior.
When all is covered good in two coats .... time to add back your new transom on the interior. After the transom is installed, add the new 1/8 aliumium plate for your final on exterior and interior - making a sandwich between your wooden transom.

Not knowing what paint you will be using (if any) for Your final exterior coat; primer is only sprayed where new aliumuim is covering the exterior transom. [STEEL FLEX WILL NOT ADHIRE TO ETCHED PRIMER - per Distributor].
Regarding wood transom - do not use marine grade, or ground contact - plenty of info in "TINBOATS " relating to that subject.
Regarding hardware: stainless needs a barrier between it and aliumium. (Neoprene washer, or 3M 5200, will act as a barrier)
If Your not using the bolt holes that are aready in place, use J.B. weld, and plug them, cure and sand. - (GOOGLE WILL HELP)
Making new hardware water tight - use 3M 5200 (permanent epoxy) vs 3M 4200 (non permanent) - (GOOGLE WILL HELP)
There are brighter minds on this site, and those that have been doing this longer than I. Looking forward to their ideas too.
Last edited by BAY BEAGLE on 14 Dec 2021, 20:16, edited 1 time in total.
- A FLATLANDER -

JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

Thank you Bay Beagle. Something i didnt mention was i have a long shaft motor. Im making the transom even across the back of the boat.

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BAY BEAGLE
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by BAY BEAGLE »

Well Your out of my league on that. Being your transom brackets are not removable, I'll take a pass, and like You ..... waiting to see what the "Pros" say.
Keep posting.
- A FLATLANDER -

JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

I will. I Have the week after xmas off. I plan on getting ideas and materials before i actually start reconstruction. Thanks for your responces.

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kdgrills
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by kdgrills »

Search through posts by user DaleH, he's described transom repairs in detail several times.

What model number is your hull? Just curious, I have a 70's F3614 with a 25hp Yamaha tiller, great little boat.

JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

H14 ? Its registered as a 1968 15' im not sure the data plate is no longer there. I remember it said 35hp max.

JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

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kdgrills
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by kdgrills »

Looks like the serial number. According to their faq "H" signifies 1968.

https://www.mirrocraft.com/faq.html

JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

Tks

Wrboz
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by Wrboz »

As to making the transom higher for a long shaft motor.
I have a 14 foot mirrocraft with the same transom braces. A 2x10 rested on the cutouts in the braces comes right up to the top of the aluminum. I overlapped a piece of sheet aluminum on the outside with a piece of aluminum sheet the thickness of the hull sandwiched in the existing transom cutout between the outer sheet and the wood. Plenty strong, works great with my 20 inch shaft.

JohnnyCaps
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Mirrocraft deep V

Post by JohnnyCaps »

I used a 2×10 on another aluminum, wolverine, that was originally 15". Pretty much how u explained. I was told 2 or 3 pieces of plywood was stronger and could flex with out breaking. Im probably going to do what every is cheapest and easiest. Thanks for ur input:)