Sealant for rivets inside

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Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

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LOCATION
Smithville, Texas
Hello everyone, I have a question for the gurus of tin boats.
I’m redoing the inside floor of my 1983 Monark because of some small pitting I found .
I’m taking it down to bare aluminum. The boat wasn’t leaking but I’d like to seal around the rivets before priming and painting.
What would you suggest? Besides seal I know it needs to withstand shock/vibration.
Any wisdom shared is appreciated.
 
West Systems G-Flex 650 ... a 'flexible' epoxy; only $22 for a kit that will do your boat 10 times over!

I've added a ton of info here on it, from the W-S website or from their Tech Support, with pictures of various repairs. Read them, shows how warming the material with a hair dryer after application can aid weepng it into the tinyest of holes or crevices, etc. Never directly warm the epoxy mix ...
 
DaleH said:
West Systems G-Flex 650 ... a 'flexible' epoxy; only $22 for a kit that will do your boat 10 times over!

I've added a ton of info here on it, from the W-S website or from their Tech Support, with pictures of various repairs. Read them, shows how warming the material with a hair dryer after application can aid weepng it into the tinyest of holes or crevices, etc. Never directly warm the epoxy mix ...
Click to expand...

Thank you Dale, much appreciated sir.
 
DaleH said:
Oh, ANY epoxy product needs to be top-coated or painted to protect it from sun/UV damage. I just use gray Rust-Oleum paint.
Click to expand...

It’s got a fairly thick coating of some black coating. I’m finding some small spots of surface rust underneath it along with small pitting. Once it’s ready I have Rust-Oleum Professional Aluminum primer. Then Rust-Oleum paint.
Do you think that’s sufficient or should I start with Rust-Oleum self etching primer? The aluminum primer I have is for bare aluminum but it doesn’t say self etching. I’m just trying to figure out what is going to stop the corrosion the best.
 
BAY BEAGLE said:
Take a picture of the area in question, with the previous repair, if You can ......
Click to expand...

The coating covers the entire floor. I’m almost halfway with my sanding.
I’ll post a couple of pictures when I come back inside in a little while.
One not sanded and one of what I uncovered.
 
Here are some pics. The middle seat was removed from the boat when I got it. One of the pictures shows the surface rust , another shows the pitting after I cleaned it up. Another picture is of a cross member that has bigger pitting. There’s two cross members like that.
Another picture is of an area I haven’t touched yet.
I’ve found some spots of surface rust under the coating after removing it.
Once it’s cleaned up should I fill in the pitting with something ?3284ADFA-E3E8-4B6F-99CF-927A14425991.jpegF64CB1E6-FDC1-4B17-8662-C5625CBE8551.jpegView attachment 3
Sorry one of the pictures posted twice.
 

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Looks like You have a little work ahead of You. It would be in Your best interests to sand, and follow up with wet sanding. There is plenty of information regarding pitted aliumium and wet sanding on the net. 220 grit may be your starting point, working towards a 400+ grit, as You get to the fine work. In the tight area's, you may try the poly wired brushes for drills. They come in "grit" grades. Use eye protection. From there You may go with a 50/50 white vinegar & water to clean it up, followed with wiping down with clean rag, and another wipe down with acetone. At this point You are at a cross road to either use a product like Gluv it, followed up with a top coat. Another option is to use a epoxy from Fasco called Steel Flex, or another simular product; DURABAK. Another option is prime the area with a Rustoleum etched primer, followed up with a quality aliumium boat paint. If You are planning on keeping the boat, then give extra attention to detail.
 
BAY BEAGLE said:
Looks like You have a little work ahead of You. It would be in Your best interests to sand, and follow up with wet sanding. There is plenty of information regarding pitted aliumium and wet sanding on the net. 220 grit may be your starting point, working towards a 400+ grit, as You get to the fine work. In the tight area's, you may try the poly wired brushes for drills. They come in "grit" grades. Use eye protection. From there You may go with a 50/50 white vinegar & water to clean it up, followed with wiping down with clean rag, and another wipe down with acetone. At this point You are at a cross road to either use a product like Gluv it, followed up with a top coat. Another option is to use a epoxy from Fasco called Steel Flex, or another simular product; DURABAK. Another option is prime the area with a Rustoleum etched primer, followed up with a quality aliumium boat paint. If You are planning on keeping the boat, then give extra attention to detail.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice. Yes I’m going to keep her. I got it as a project about 18 months ago. I’ve put many hours in the motor etc.
Problem I’m having is the tight areas like under the cross members. I was thinking today it would be nice to put a coat of something that is going to strengthen it.
I had no idea I would need to go so fine on the sanding. I figured what I was doing would leave it etched making it easier to cover.
I’m learning something new everyday as I’m working on it.
Does aluminum oxidize pretty fast? Guess what I’m asking is will I have to move quick after the last sanding with 400 grit to wipe it down and get a coating put on? Should I prime before using an epoxy?
Thanks again for your help. I appreciate it greatly!
P.S. Durabak looks like what I had in mine. It says it’s for truck beds too.
 
When you come to the painting, that is where you should do a wash down with spic n spam, rinse good. Vinegar bath, and acetone wipedown. This will take care of the oxidation prior to painting. On mine, I'm adding a additional step; using Purple Power aliumium brightner, just after the wash down.
Fasco Steel Flex does not need a primer, but it does need a scuffed surface of #60 grit for the Steel Flex to bite to. Durabak has a special primer used, prior to adding the top coat.
Any other paint will need a etched primer. Best to research prior to committing. If You surface with Gluv- It. It will need a top coat to protect it from breaking up from UV rays.

Sandblasting may be something to look into. DIY or source it out.
Look at all that pitting and corrosion as a cancer on the aluminum. Covering it will only hide it. It will still continue to do it's damage under the "bandaid".

The GFlex, Dale was telling You about, would be my first line of defense, after You removed the cancer around those rivets. GluvIt can be used in those open areas, that have been effected the most from corrosion, for added protection.
 
BAY BEAGLE said:
When you come to the painting, that is where you should do a wash down with spic n spam, rinse good. Vinegar bath, and acetone wipedown. This will take care of the oxidation prior to painting. On mine, I'm adding a additional step; using Purple Power aliumium brightner, just after the wash down.
Fasco Steel Flex does not need a primer, but it does need a scuffed surface of #60 grit for the Steel Flex to bite to. Durabak has a special primer used, prior to adding the top coat.
Any other paint will need a etched primer. Best to research prior to committing. If You surface with Gluv- It. It will need a top coat to protect it from breaking up from UV rays.

Sandblasting may be something to look into. DIY or source it out.
Look at all that pitting and corrosion as a cancer on the aluminum. Covering it will only hide it. It will still continue to do it's damage under the "bandaid".

The GFlex, Dale was telling You about, would be my first line of defense, after You removed the cancer around those rivets. GluvIt can be used in those open areas, that have been effected the most from corrosion, for added protection.
Click to expand...
You’re correct about doing research. I apologize for popping of questions immediately.
I’m still looking at all the options but leaning towards Gulvit or Steel Flex along with the Giles for now. I’m also going to have to get creative and make some different shaped pieces of wood I can attach sandpaper to. One good thing is so far I haven't found any corrosion around the rivets that I’ve gone around.
Thanks again.
 

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