Fasteners to attach new floor to aluminum angle supports.

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RaisedByWolves

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Messages
721
Reaction score
75
Location
Bucks county PA.
A couple years ago I ripped out the stock bench seats on my 14' mirrocraft and began putting in aluminum angle to build an elevated floor. Fast forward to now Im finally getting around to installing the floor and Im in need of fasteners for this.

What I want are something removable with a low head design, self tapping would be a plus. Ill be removing the floor for flotation and wiring before its screwed down and carpeted.

Anyone have any good suggestions for fasteners to fit my needs?
 
Self tapping SS screws and with finish washers. You won't even know they are there.

Our own DaleH says stack two finish washers. That way the bottom one won't spin and tear whatever floor cover you are using. I'm probably not explaining it well, but think we all should consider it a best practice, especially with vinyl floor cover.

Screen Shot 2022-04-24 at 4.11.20 PM.png
 
Self-tapping, truss-head sheet metal screws.

That's what I'm installing the decking on the F-9 with.
 
MN Fisher said:
Self-tapping, truss-head sheet metal screws.

That's what I'm installing the decking on the F-9 with.

Had to make the above post to get the quote button to pop up?
Anyway, wanted you to see this, Stainless or plain steel?

I have found them in stainless and if I go that route do you think predrilling is necessary? I worry about stainless snapping, then again its only 1/8" cheesy Alu extrusion.
 
I'm planning on pre-drilling with a 3/32 double-end pilot bit...mainly to reduce the chance of splitting the plywood, not to put a pilot hole in the angle...I'm only using 1/16" aluminum in the framing anyway.
 
.....
The challenge here is to allow the fasteners to be removeable. Given that, I'd say the self-tapping SS ones would be the ones to use. Tighten up 'snug', but do not over-tighten them. I'd never use plain steel on a boat. Another option would be to put aluminum rivnuts into the framing and secure the floor with aluminum bolts.

To me ... screws into tin ribs will constantly cut into the framing, will never stay tight and will loosen over time ... where those threads on the screws act like 'teeth' that never stop cutting into the tin whenever the boat hits a wake or a bump whilst trailering.

An option for a non-removeable floor over tin framing would be to use 'large flange' head aluminum blind rivets securing both the wood (treated) floor and marine vinyl (also glued) covering in place. Note add a thin nylon washer under the flange head of each rivet to hold the vinyl in place without tearing. If ever needed to be pulled up, only the flange head needs to be drilled off the top to remove the floor, whereas anything stuck into the ribs can be easily removed once the floor is up.

.....
Rivet.jpg
 
DaleH said:
.....

To me ... screws into tin ribs will constantly cut into the framing, will never stay tight and will loosen over time ... where those threads on the screws act like 'teeth' that never stop cutting into the tin whenever the boat hits a wake or a bump whilst trailering.

Rivet.jpg

This is why I like asking questions here. I knew I had heard something about screws but could not remember the theory. Yeah, not a lot of thread “in” the material now that you mention it.

Maybe screws for the time being, then a good quality rivet once everything is finalized, then carpet to finish it off.

The real issue is using the boat between build sessions.

Doing things different, Ie all in one step would require I fish or build in my spare time. Between weather and work I’m not left with much time to do either really, so I do what I can when I can.
 
MN Fisher said:
Self-tapping, truss-head sheet metal screws.

That's what I'm installing the decking on the F-9 with.

Started watching your video the other day but got interrupted. Will watch more later for inspiration, been a long road.
 
RaisedByWolves said:
Huh, OK, now thats all worked out heres my PSA for the weekend.

1/4" of your self tapping screw will not have threads. #-o

Yep - that's the 'drill point' on them.
 

Latest posts

Top