Trailer Bearing Replacement/Service Instructional Vid

Robster · Post by **Robster** » 15 Sep 2012, 11:52

The guy in the vid sprays the bearing with some sort of solvent.....solvent melts grease.... so be careful to dry off any solvent based cleaner before applying new grease.

motfua · Post by **motfua** » 18 Nov 2012, 00:35

lots of good info here,,, thanks guys

PSG-1 · Post by **PSG-1** » 19 Nov 2012, 10:01

bluegillfisher wrote:What do you do to your leaf springs? Mine aren't cracked or broken, is that all?

Having worked on hundreds of trailers, and seeing the typical failure points, my suggestion is that when you check your springs, you should also check the axle tube in the area of the springs and tie plates.

Metal-to-metal contact and corrosion does some awful things to axle tubes, an axle will typically fail right where the U-bolts connect the springs to the tie plates. And especially so if it's a factory-built axle, and they followed some design drawn up by a college-boy engineer, that calls for drilling a hole in the axle tube for the spring centering hole. NEVER DO THIS!! It causes a stress riser, as well as a perfect infiltration point for water, which leads to corrosion, and then failure. Weld a spring centering pad to the axle tube.

cva34 · Post by **cva34** » 29 Dec 2012, 11:00

Couple points Missed or I Missed 1 When checking bearing and race if there Blue they been hot and need to be changed..2 Do it in a reasonably clean area with no dust blowing /clean hands and tools when going back together...Cleanlyness is a must for long bearing life and keep you off roadside...3 Use Recomended Quality Grease /not something thats been sitting around without a lid/and or contanimated...cva34

jomcdani · Post by **jomcdani** » 23 Apr 2015, 16:35

Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?

lckstckn2smknbrls · Post by **lckstckn2smknbrls** » 23 Apr 2015, 19:11

jomcdani wrote:Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?

I have not tried this but if you cut a slot through the old race you can use it to drive the new race in and will pop right out.

Clifford_Akov · Post by **Clifford_Akov** » 24 Apr 2015, 08:57

You can rent a "race driver" very inexpensively at Auto Zone, they sell them too. Makes changing the races much easier. jmho

jomcdani · Post by **jomcdani** » 24 Apr 2015, 10:05

Thanks, I've read about using the old race and large sockets. I forgot that Autozone lets you rent parts. I will probably do that.

Thanks again,

jomcdani · Post by **jomcdani** » 27 Apr 2015, 09:01

After the new race was flush with the hub, I used the old race to get it seated. Then to get it closer, I put the old bearing in the old race (now in the hub as well) and hammered it in with a ball peen hammer. Then flipped the hub over and tapped the old race out.

Thanks for the replies.

driz · Post by **driz** » 24 May 2016, 15:07

FWIW I have a few trailers and lots of toys to do bearings on. I always used the punch and big hammer for oh so many years. Then one day I had to do something that I just couldn't get around with a socket. Since I was desperate I went and got a set at Autozone under that tool loan program of theirs. Buy it and take it back after for a refund. I used those that one time and said these babies are mine. Best $40 or so I have spent in a long time. I'm not one for buying exotic tools unless I have to but when you own trailers it's just so nice to grab what you need and knock it out. That goes double for those seals that are a tad oversize and issues like that.

Scott85 · Post by **Scott85** » 24 May 2016, 18:10

jomcdani wrote:Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?

It's a lot easier to do it with one. I got a set from harbor freight for 20 bucks.

perchjerker · Post by **perchjerker** » 24 May 2016, 18:58

jomcdani wrote:Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?

brass drift and a little patience. Just tap it gently and walk it in

I was a mechanic for 20+ years, its easy for me

but I do have and recommend a race installer for novices.

WaterWaif · Post by **WaterWaif** » 24 May 2016, 22:13

When I did lots of changes in a service department ,I ground an old race down to a slightly smaller diameter than stock size for common ones. A wood block on top of it.. and whack away.
Used a hammer handle/hardwood dowel driven with a hammer to knock them out with.

driz · Post by **driz** » 25 May 2016, 08:11

perchjerker wrote:
jomcdani wrote:Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?
brass drift and a little patience. Just tap it gently and walk it in

I was a mechanic for 20+ years, its easy for me

but I do have and recommend a race installer for novices.

[-X [-X So true , it's the best $20 you will ever spend. Most times you don't really need one but with old castings , especially ones that have caught a couple hits on the edge with that 2 lb hammer here and there they make things go so easily. Same goes for a cheap seal puller. Now you really don't need one of those at all for trailer bearings but once again if its hanging on your wall you will appreciate it and it will last a lifetime. Best part is you won't be getting all pissed off digging for some tool that will help you get by.
How about a bearing packer? I truly hate swimming in grease and even with all the right weapons on hand still get slathered in the crap. At least with a bearing packer you get it over with in 30 seconds rather than pushing that goo around with your palm. A packer won't do it any better but at least you are done fast and mine goes back in it's plastic bag coated in greasy slime. All these tools are the sort that the HF models will work just as well as the grossly overpriced (but sexy) snap ons.

Tinny Fleet · Post by **Tinny Fleet** » 17 May 2017, 09:27

I spray my springs with CorrosionX. Works on your garage door spring too!

The one issue is that the oil attracts dirt. To me though, its worth the tradeoff. Besides I power spray the springs from time to time as well to keep the crud at bay. After a dip in salt water, though, I use warm soapy water at mild pressure to get the salt out of the crevices, before going in with any kind of high pressure wash.