Resurrecting a 1957 BlueStar

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rivets4ever

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Jan 3, 2013
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Trying to resurrect a 1957 Blue Star runabout.

I have the title in my name (!), there's a trailer under it, I have a decent 20 hp Evinrude with the wiring harness and a middle sized pile of random boat parts including a radio, lights, some gauges, steering wheel and Teleflex parts, throttle quadrant, battery box, gas tanks, some life preservers, a canopy, cleats, anchor, and so forth. I even have a marine stereo and speakers.

The motor will need a carb rebuild, plugs, an impeller, and an oil change - it has been sitting on a wooden stand (with wheels, so I can move it around). It turns, the engine is free. I notice there is no air filter, is that normal? None of this is any problem. I have the manual, tools, and an indoor space to work. Anything else I ought to do to the motor?

Trailer needs air in the tires, wheel bearings repacked, and like all boat trailers, wiring. Again, none of this is any problem.

(I've also taken the local Power Squadron boating safety course and I now know the Exxon Valdez has the right of way.)

Then we get to the hull . . .

Step one is to pressure clean it inside and out. Step two is to do it again, and while someone is pressure cleaning it, I will look for leaks and loose rivets (which I can fix, I have a LARGE selection of rivet sets and bucking bars).

Now here is where I need some help. The fiberglass deck is in terrible shape and needs to come off. It is glued onto the hull with some kind of cement-like epoxy which seems to be completely immune and utterly invulnerable to anything I can throw at it - thinners, solvents, (dynamite?) and it laughs at hammers and chisels. It is that tough. How do I get that stuff off so I can get rid of the remains of the fiberglass deck?

I also need to replace or reskin the transom. It has had a number of holes drilled in it over the years, and is pretty flimsy. I am thinking of using 3/4" poly-something (used for boat decking) and making an internal doubler out of it. I'd glop it up with sealants and bolt it to the inside of the existing transom. I'll also add an inverted "U" shape of stainless steel (which I've already fabricated) and bolt that on as well to reinforce the new transom. I don't want the motor to fall off . . .

Once all that is done, I can start on the interior. I see a number of restorations on this site, and I'll happily take lessons and pointers from the people who have done this before. I'll need a dashboard (gotta mount the steering to something more substantial than thin air), floatation foam, probably a floor of marine plywood liberally coated with some kind of waterproofing (Thompson's? Epoxy?) and seats - I have two fiberglass bucket seat shells with removable upholstery.

The "mission" for the boat is a runabout, so I don't need a bait well or fishing pole sockets.

I can do the wiring as well. Essentially, what I need help on is dealing with the hull, getting rid of the old fiberglass and glue, and putting together the interior.


Opinions, advice, hints and tricks, gotcha's to be aware of all solicited! Thank you!

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida
 
Now here is where I need some help. The fiberglass deck is in terrible shape and needs to come off. It is glued onto the hull with some kind of cement-like epoxy which seems to be completely immune and utterly invulnerable to anything I can throw at it - thinners, solvents, (dynamite?) and it laughs at hammers and chisels. It is that tough. How do I get that stuff off so I can get rid of the remains of the fiberglass deck?
You might want to use an osculating power tool with a blade that you think will work.
Something like this.

https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DCS356...655110&sprefix=dewalt+os,aps,1048&sr=8-5&th=1

I have one, and as a handyman, it's the most used tool I own. Wouldn't do without it.
 
You might want to use an osculating power tool with a blade that you think will work.
Something like this.

https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DCS356B-Variable-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07VBB55X5/ref=sr_1_5?crid=21VE8QEXIEGWE&keywords=dewalt+oscillating+tool&qid=1707655110&sprefix=dewalt+os,aps,1048&sr=8-5&th=1

I have one, and as a handyman, it's the most used tool I own. Wouldn't do without it.

I have to agree. That is one of the most versatile tools I own. And, it can be used with a lot of precision when that is needed.

It seems the original ones were invented as a tool for medical folk to use when removing plaster casts.
 
Thanks for the encouraging replies! I'll send some pix this coming week after the hull is pressure cleaned. Right now it is downright nasty and downright UGLY. I'd be reluctant to admit I even knew anything about it let alone owned it. How nasty is it? Well I'm going to wear two bags over my head so nobody recognizes me if one bag breaks - it is that bad. Amazingly, though, there are no dents! (And as I said, I have a Florida title for it in my name - which is half the battle.)

I've been planning this for some time (it isn't my #1 priority) and we have a large flea market in town. It is as much a social event as a shopping venue. Every once in a while I find boat parts there and if I need them, or might need them, I'll grab them. An anchor was $2, the marine radio was $5 (and the correct connector for it was more, $8 on eBay). I'm not cheap, but I don't turn down bargains. I often see the cutter heads referred to, so I guess I'll have to go buy the oscillating tool - sigh, gotta go buy another tool, darn it . . . now what do I have to move around in the toolboxes so this will fit?

Stay tuned . . .

Thank you and best regards,
Mike/Florida
 
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