12' Springbok Ghetto "Repair"

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

is lock stock always so friendly?

Welcome to the site!

 

[bassboy1]

The bad news is, yeah, that is pretty ugly. The good news is that it won't be too hard a fix.

You've got two options, "fix" it, or repair it.

To "fix" it, you go grab a tube of real cheap silicone, and blob it on wherever water comes through.

To repair it, the process is a little more complex, but not hard.
First, remove the old patch completely. Remove all the goop. Chances are, if that much goop was needed, the patch is a poor fit, and you'll likely have to redo it. See what the hole looks like. Then, find you another piece of aluminum, .063 - .080 range, cut it to shape, where it overlaps the hole, round off the corners, then roll it around something (piece of pipe, bucket, whatever you have laying around), to match the radius of the hole. Clamp the piece to the hull. Now, break out the drill, and start drilling your holes (I'd be using 3/16 rivets, in this case). This an excellent use for cleco fasteners, but unless you do a little more metalworking than the average joe, you probably don't have these. Bolts will be a good substitute. Just as you get a hole drilled, put a bolt or something in it, to assure that all will line up. Space your holes about 1 - 1.25" on center.

Once you've drilled around the perimeter, pop the piece off, and debur all the metal. Here is where you have two options. 1st is to use pop rivets, and the second is to use solid rivets, like the boat has. For pop rivets, all you need is a 20 dollar rivet gun from Lowes or Home Depot. For solid rivets, you can get by with two heavy hammers. Place a bit of 3M 5200 around the perimeter. The goal here is to seal between the hull and the patch, not glob stuff on top like is there currently. Rivet in place. If you use solid rivets, no sealant is needed around the rivet. For pop rivets, put a dab of sealer in the hole before inserting the rivet, then put a tab in the middle of the rivet (where the mandrel was), after you pull the rivet.

The repair should last forever, the "fix," not so much.

 

[TC1OZ]

Thanks for the information bassboy1!

=D>


I will update this thread as the repair process takes place.

First step will be to clean it up and check where the leaks are.

Try to rebuck any rivets that have leaks.

I plan on using Muggy Weld to make sure any of the previous patches are properly sealed (rather than using caulk). Maybe even use along some of the seams that are really dinged up.

Then use the steelflex tinted black to paint the outside of the boat.

Then perhaps later on down the road do some work on the inside. I will update with pictures as the process takes place.

Thanks everyone for your information as I'm sure I'll need more as the process gets underway!

 

[TC1OZ]

Here she is on her maiden voyage home... I'm thinking of calling her Black Betty when I'm done! (black pigment steelflex for the outside)

My plan was to stop by the hardware store and pickup a few sawhorse hinges so I could rig up a few to get this thing off the ground while I work on it. And pick up a drain plug so that I wouldn't have a LARGE leak hahaha. Sure enough they closed 20 mins before I was able to load the boat up in my buddies truck and get there.

Its ok.. I can get that this week. I was able to rig up a plug out of gaff tape and it works really well... If I were a huge red neck I'd probably just use that!

The leak test went really well. Only had one leak. Here is the area of where the water was seeping in.

What do you pros think the cheapest/best option would be to repair this area of the boat?

 

[zackn]

Wow, only one leak! And not even where the big hole was patched? I'm surprised. You've got to be pretty happy about that. Are you still going to try to work on the old patch job, or leave well enough alone?

--Zack

 

[TC1OZ]

Wow, only one leak! And not even where the big hole was patched? I'm surprised. You've got to be pretty happy about that. Are you still going to try to work on the old patch job, or leave well enough alone?

--Zack

I know crazy!! :shock:

Due to how ugly the boat is, I don't want to waste too much money/time/effort on it. And I doubt I'm even going to touch the old patch job.

Tomorrow I'm going to pressure wash it, then pick up some "Lab-Metal" and I'm going to put it on the inside and outside of where the leak is.

Then I'm going to take it out for a day of fishing.... if theres no more leaks I think a couple cans of this :

And replace the transom wood with something that won't rot (ie. cutting board material from kitchens). As I only plan to use a trolling motor with it.

Floating boat with no leaks for under $250... Can't complain about that.

 

[zackn]

Haven't heard of that Lab-Metal stuff, but I'm reading about it now. Let us know how it is to work with, and how effective it is!

--Zack

 

[TC1OZ]

Well... I took longer than I wanted but I ended up getting everything I wanted.

I have the lab metal and I have the steelflex, and I plan on using both.

I doubled my order of the steelflex since I heard all the crazy stories on the duty fees... Let me tell you they are all true. hahaha. **** government!

So I'm going crazy... After I patch the bigger areas up with the lab metal I plan on doing at least two coats of black steelflex on the outside. And one or two coats of gray on the inside.

I also got a sweet deal on a 50# thrust minn kota and marine battery.... 100$

Well....

Tomorrow after work I'll have to pickup some supplies and get to cleaning off the crappy caulking seal job. I'll keep you guys updated and thanks again for all the information! Not only from this thread but from reading all the other helpful threads!! :LOL2:

 

[wolfmjc]

Welcome! be sure to read about putting on the steel flex.......lots of good tips here...

 

[zackn]

Glad to hear things are progressing. Very interested to hear about your Steelflex application, and the results!