1959 Duracraft V-Hull Project

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jd,
I'm enjoying your thread. Great progress.
Just curious, are those tail lights?

jasper

I don't believe they are. I think that they were made for tubing or towing (not entirely certain). They appear to be installed originall and also mount through the transom.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=333562#p333562 said:
CLM » 01 Nov 2013, 15:44[/url]"]I stripped the entire outside of my hull in about 3 hours time using aircraft stripper, plastic wrap, plastic scrappers, plastic scrub brush and pressure washer. Once I slid off as much of the paint as possible with the plastic wrap, then I used the scrappers and brush to hit the stubborn spots, followed by pressure washer. Second coat in some places.

Check your formula again.
Remote Max HP = ( 14 x 4.54 x 2 ) - 90 = 37.12 if you have at least a 20" transom.

Tiller Max HP = ( 14 x 4.54 x .8 ) - 25 = 25.848 for rounded hulls

Tiller Max HP = (14 x 4.54 x .5 ) - 15 = 16.78 if you figure for hard chined boats

Thank you for the information. When you say "20" inches, do you mean width on the back? Also, where am I supposed to measure for the transom? I measured out 54" in the center, but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to do an average between the bottom, middle, and top.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=333635#p333635 said:
nctlspider » 02 Nov 2013, 18:21[/url]"]20 inches is from top to bottom where the motor mounts. Most older small craft measure around 15"

Thanks for the information!

I didn't get much accomplished this weekend on the boat. I ended up spending most of the weekend cleaning out the garage in preperation for the winter. On a positive note, however, is that I measured out the spaces for where I'm going to build a temporary paint booth (for spray paint). One of my neighbors has a spraying kit that he's going to let me use when it comes time! I'm very thankful to have some of the best neighbors in the U.S (in my humble opinion)! =D>
 
Good neighbors can make projects a blessing. :)

Nice, pains-taking work.

Glad the heat gun worked, thought the temps would affect the vaporization of the stripper, but the heat apparently speeded up the chemical interaction, so vapor wasn't a factor.

huh. Neat.
 
I dunno Kismet,

I was thinking the heat gun itself probably freed up some of the paint. My ex-mother-in-law had an all wood 58' sailboat and we used heat guns to remove the urethane. Scraped off fairly easy with just heat.

jd,

Hard work on the front end will allow for more enjoyment once its done. Good job!
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=333807#p333807 said:
Kismet » 05 Nov 2013, 16:34[/url]"]Good neighbors can make projects a blessing. :)

Nice, pains-taking work.

Glad the heat gun worked, thought the temps would affect the vaporization of the stripper, but the heat apparently speeded up the chemical interaction, so vapor wasn't a factor.

huh. Neat.

If you go over an area too slowly, the heatgun will not do well whatsoever. Its about a decent pace and consistency I found.
 
That makes sense too... I was also thinking about the time I took a torch to the edge of my boat and it burnt the paint off. Of course you can melt the aluminum all to easy with a torch!
 
I've found out that the cold weather isn't the problem. I took the aircraft stripper to my buddies house to let him try some on his trailer reno. project. It stripped it down really quick.

After doing a little reading, I think part of it has to do with all of the spray paint that was used on the boat. There's a crap load of layers caked on. Additionally, its working against 50+ years of paint. I think that might be the culprit.

Oh well, tomorrow I'm going to do some more work when I get a little time. Working full time and going to school full time kind of burns my free time, haha!
 
Keep at it, man. Stripping old paint is the worst part of a restoration/mod in my experience. Just make sure to get it as "right" as you can. A little extra time spent now getting all of those little nooks and crannies will be well spent. I'm thinking of stripping my boat down again and doing a nice paint job on it. No more wire wheeling for me! I will either pay a shop to bead blast the boat, or I will rent a beast of a pressure washer and get a gallon of good paint stripper.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=334029#p334029 said:
wingsnhammers » 09 Nov 2013, 03:50[/url]"]Keep at it, man. Stripping old paint is the worst part of a restoration/mod in my experience. Just make sure to get it as "right" as you can. A little extra time spent now getting all of those little nooks and crannies will be well spent. I'm thinking of stripping my boat down again and doing a nice paint job on it. No more wire wheeling for me! I will either pay a shop to bead blast the boat, or I will rent a beast of a pressure washer and get a gallon of good paint stripper.

I've been trying to find as non-evasive of a method as possible. I have posted up a few ad requests (on craiglists) for someone that can soda blast or dry-ice blast for a reasonable price. I've gotten a few responses back, but most of them are the typical "Hey man, I know you said you wanted a soda blaster, but I promise I'm a really good sand blaster" lol.

I've got a few guys in my neighborhood that have been into metal fabrication for 20+ years and they've shown me how easy it is to ruin aluminum with a sand blast. Glass bead blasting it can be a better alternative to the "coarser" sanding, but if there's anything I've learned -- where there's a will, there's a way with some people haha.
 
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