1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

[oakchas]

The correct formula is,
One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.

Prolly depends on which old timer you ask. ... lol

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[Hanr3]

What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask


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White Oak is the strongest and naturally rot resistant. Sailors have been making boats out of it for centuries. Problem with plywood is voids. You need a marine grade solid plywood with as many layers as you can find. Can you use an inferior grade, yes! The trade off is longevity. If you're going to keep it for 10 years or less, go with plywood. Rest of you're life, go with white oak.

Great build so far.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The correct formula is,
One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.

Prolly depends on which old timer you ask. ... lol

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My old-timer can beat up your old-timer.
:LOL2:

 

[oakchas]

Old timer's aside... You don't wanna mess with old timer's.... they'll just kill ya.

So, I mowed over the weekend.

mowing dust all over the boat.

sigh

Fortunately, paint was long dry, and scotch-brited... today I was gonna add a coat.

Rain threatens, it's miserable hot and humid, and I had to rinse it down anyway. Instead of painting, I washed and masked. Last two coats of black will go down (above the rivets in the pic) to the mask line. Then I can reverse mask for the gray.

 

[oakchas]

Okay.

Today I rolled on the fourth coat. You've all seen what shiny paint looks like, so no need to post a pic.

Weather permitting, tomorrow I will scotch brite the fourth coat.

Friday, I'll try to do the final coat.

If I'm lucky, I can start on gray next week.

2 months elapsed so far... That's the problem if you're retired, with a part time job, and a honey do list.

 

[doug.davidson.86]

I'm going back a bit... What was the process you used to take off the old paint?


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[oakchas]

I'm going back a bit... What was the process you used to take off the old paint?


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I tried chemical strpping. Outdoors, it wasn't working well. Probably flashing off too quickly. So, I used a cup brush (knotted wire) and some flap discs on an angle grinder VERY CAREFULLY.

But, mostly, I used a random orbit sander with 60, 80, 140, 220 grit pads. That left some previous primer and a little bit of paint on the boat in spots.

See here: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=411881#p411881

And the two posts after it, where you can see the old zinc chromate primer that was left on.

 

[oakchas]

Following my method has revealed a finish you can read the newspaper in!

No wait, that's newspaper taped above the reverse mask to avoid gray roller spatter....

According to the Internet, you're supposed to thin 50/50 mineral spirits... if your air bubbles don't self-pop, it's too thick.

I disagree, many fewer air bubbles at all with a 33/66 mix, more paint than mineral spirits. Here's what happened with 1st coat of gray at 50/50.

It's nothing that won't be fixed with some wet sanding and heavier subsequent coats.

Also, coverage is much worse with the 50/50.

 

[user 17811]

Not sure if i missed it, but by the talk, sounds like you are using Rustoleum paint? Or maybe Brightside?

 

[oakchas]

Not sure if i missed it, but by the talk, sounds like you are using Rustoleum paint? Or maybe Brightside?

Rustoleum. Plain ol' Rustoleum. Nothing special. Stock colors. Gloss oil based enamel.

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[FormerParatrooper]

Looks good so far. =D>

 

[Al U Minium]

Some progress...

I've stripped all I'm going to from the boat. and sanded the rest. Half of the boat is primed with an aluminum primer.

I repainted the trailer, remade the bunks, rewired the trailer and it's ready to go except for the bunk carpeting.

Rewiring the trailer was a pain. It's a tilt trailer, and the ground was weak to the back. I tried everything short of running a ground to each light.

I came up with a "5 buck solution;" a battery cable from the front of the trailer to the tilting portion (at the hinge), and lots of dielectric grease.

Pix next post, I'm resizing them to minimize bandwidth.

Dielectric grease is not conductive which means the electrical connection you are trying to achieve is being compromised by the grease applied. The attachment points should be clean metal to metal. After bolt up and final tightening, coat the connection with something to keep air and water out of the connection to prevent deterioration of the connection from oxidation and corrosion. This does not apply to aluminum conductors with anti-oxidant coatings as the connectors used displace the coating at the connection.

 

[oakchas]

Some progress...

I've stripped all I'm going to from the boat. and sanded the rest. Half of the boat is primed with an aluminum primer.

I repainted the trailer, remade the bunks, rewired the trailer and it's ready to go except for the bunk carpeting.

Rewiring the trailer was a pain. It's a tilt trailer, and the ground was weak to the back. I tried everything short of running a ground to each light.

I came up with a "5 buck solution;" a battery cable from the front of the trailer to the tilting portion (at the hinge), and lots of dielectric grease.

Pix next post, I'm resizing them to minimize bandwidth.

Dielectric grease is not conductive which means the electrical connection you are trying to achieve is being compromised by the grease applied. The attachment points should be clean metal to metal. After bolt up and final tightening, coat the connection with something to keep air and water out of the connection to prevent deterioration of the connection from oxidation and corrosion. This does not apply to aluminum conductors with anti-oxidant coatings as the connectors used displace the coating at the connection.

You are correct, technically.

However, I've never had corrosion, nor a lack of sufficient contact when applying some grease to all the surfaces on equipment ranging from antique tractors and cars (with antiquated 6 volt systems) to late model earth moving equipment with 24 volt systems.

And then I coated everything heavily after the connection was made.

Back in the day, I just used Vaseline in place of fancy dielectric grease.

NEVER had a failure.

Just sayin'.

Oh, and here's a link to someone with more actual knowledge and tests of the notion if you're interested:

https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

 

[oakchas]

Argh! I am really not happy with the 50/50 mix.

The bubbles that did pop ended up like fish eyes from hades.

I had to resort to 400 grit and "very fine" (red) scotchbrite.

Wet sanding done just before thunderstorms rolled thru.

Guess I can put on a heavier coat tomorrow, and hope it evens things out a bit.

 

[oakchas]

Got the second coat on today. Better coverage, no unburst bubbles, no fisheyes. A few runs. A few drips.

All in all, much better. Now I can go back to 600 grit and ultra fine scotchbrite.

Probably two more coats.

Painting on the vertical sides is a bit more of a challenge for runs and drips. But going much thicker to eliminate that doesn't allow the paint to cure. Unthinned Rustoleum doesn't seem to cure EVER.

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[water bouy]

I like the layout you're going for. I may send you a 16 ft for the same treatment.

 

[oakchas]

I like the layout you're going for. I may send you a 16 ft for the same treatment.

Thanks but no thanks! One thing I've learned, and it's been said here before: "paint the thing and get out on the water and catch some fish!"

That said, I got another coat of gray on just now. .. thought I'd be able to wet and with 600 and ultra fine scotchbrite. NO.

Another round of 400 and very fine scotchbrite before this coat.

Am I trying to make a silk purse? Yeah, kinda.

Anyway, here's the latest coat:

Just a couple more coats to go. Then some 1500, 2000 and a buffer over the whole thing. Then wax and put on the trailer.

I hope there's some good fall fishin'!

 

[oakchas]

Today was spent with maroon (very fine, not ultra fine) scotchbrite followed by 600 grit wet sanding and a wash down with simple green.

Still gonna take two more coats

Bummer.

Then I can unmask and start fine sanding and polish. Sigh.

I still think it'll be a good 14 foot boat.... and a lot better than the 100 footer it started out as.

 

[oakchas]

Another coat of gray today. Maybe it won't require another.

I'll find out by wet sanding with 1200 grit. If that goes well, I'll go to 2000 grit. Then, unmask and polish. If not, one more coat. NO MAS!

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[oakchas]

Okay!

Gray sanded to 600, three small areas to touch up. One dent, and a couple of rivet heads.

Un masked:

The masked lines came pretty clean. A little bleed where there were some prop gouges in the transom.

Two delaminations of paint on the black.

These are no bigger than a quarter. I will sand them back, reprime with etching primer, I'll hit the rivets and dent on the gray as well, brush some paint and sand those spots.

Masking tape, even "delicate surface" removable tape and hot sun for more than a couple of weeks makes for very difficult unmasking. Simple green spray cleaner helped with peeling the tape. Mineral spirits cleaned up the adhesive.

It was a couple of hours to unmask it all.

I'll sand the black to 1200, and polish it out after fixing the delams.

Carpet comes today plus bunk carpet.

Hope to have it on the trailer by the first of next week.

YAY!