1988 Johnson 15hp no idle

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so i am getting a little agitated with my buddy not even taking the carb off yet. i know he is doing me a favor but come on already. geez.

anyways, i am heading out of town this weekend for a surprise b day get away. when i get back, i am tackling the boat full force, getting gluvit for inside and painting outside and upper inside half. from there, building a deck for it. once i see how he is doing from my mid point of completion, i might just bite the bullet and do it myself or learn or just pay someone. i will need the motor to build the jackplate.

really hope he can figure it out soon. i know he is a busy guy but i am sure if i had it here in my garage, you guys could help me through small issues.
 
i think i am just going to add a nice home made jack-plate for obvious reasons when considering price and effort.

spoke to my friend and he was going to take apart the carb and clean it a bit, check things out. from there i do not know what else he is going to do.

if i was going to just have him clean everything and put new seals and such "if needed", think i can get it back to my house and you guys could help me dial it in? i hate having it at his house and being a burden in his garage
 
Foam is not clear up without dismantling and cleaning properly. You can start your first adjustment of the needle at low speed to 1.5 turns and twist it slowly until the engine accelerates and finally spits then leans back to 1 / 4 turn and leave. Thats a good fit approximation.
 
a few questions guys. i got it all together and running yesterday. just need to iron out a few minor issues.

what is this plate? obviously homemade and leaks a tad from the very bottom. but where it leaks from, it drips on the spark plug wires. what initially went here and is it worth it to buy whatever it is?
P86220104.jpg


next up is the pulley part. where the bolt is, i have since added a washer. problem is, when i tighten it "tight" i cant pull the cord. when it is loose enough to pull, the tries to come off and hit and sparks fly, etc etc. so we need to get the proper fix for this.
P86218200.jpg


main issue here.. fuel. i have an old 6hp Montgomery ward that is amazing. no issues, starts on first pull every time, etc etc. great little motor. so, i have a gas tank that i use with that, only 2gallons. has the manual bulb primer which works. everything is good on that setup. BUT, when i use that can and hose and pump on this motor, it stops running. you have to keep pumping the primer to keep the motor going. so, i have a 2psi fuel pump lying around and attached it to the motor, bypassing the primer. will run all day it seems. normal. is there a problem with the motor or what? at this point, i need the above issues fixed and a jack plate made and i am ready to take it out. not sure if i should just hook up this fuel pump and say screw it or what.

on a side note, i left the motor off, fuel pump on, nothing leaked. so i am assuming this has a built in shut off or something where it is not pumping anymore once enough fuel is needed? is 2psi a good number? i don't want to waste a bunch of gas and possibly ruin something from pumping to much fuel in.

lastly, 50:1 mixture? says 100:1 on the motor and smokes pretty good with 50:1 in the garbage can i had it in yesterday.

guys, thanks. i hope to get some good answers and out on the water soon!
 
My guess on the metal plate appears to be a home made thermostat cover. The slop in your recoil starter most likely means you'll need to replace the worn parts. It sounds like you need to rebuild the fuel pump on your motor. You can get kits for this just like buying a carb kit. It's not unusual for a motor to seem to smoke a lot when run in a barrel. While it might run OK on 100:1, I'd continue to run it on 50:1. Worst case is it smokes just a little bit more but at least you won't harm your engine from lack of lubrication. And once you get it out on the lake, I bet you won't even notice the smoke.
 
I think J/E backpedaled on the 100:1 mix and went back to 50:1 after only a couple of years. It should run fine on 50:1.. If you choose to run 100:1, I would run a synthetic.
 
The issue with 100:1 was an issue that manifested itself during off-season storage and internal corrosion. From those issues OMC came out with a service memo that stated that engines with the 100:1 rating were to be run on 50:1. This is something I have seen firsthand in brands other than Johnson/Evinrude as well. We have a 3 cylinder Yamaha apart on the bench now that has been run on 100:1 and the crank counterweights are lightly rusted. This is going to happen if you run light oil ratios. The heavier ratios will leave a better and heavier protective film of oil on internal parts once the gasoline evaporates, no ifs ands or buts about it.
That rear plate is home made and needs to be replaced with the proper thermostat cover with a new gasket and thermostat installed as well.
 
thanks for the info guys.

as for the pulley part, i have replaced the coil spring and the gear piece. the bolt attaches to a metal piece down below the coil spring. i am thinking of just getting some lok tight and calling it a day but then that random even when it falls off i will be the farthest from the ramp. just my luck.
 
could someone point me in the right direction to an exploded view of this thermostat area? i cant seem to find anything and want to compare the view to what i have and which parts i think i should get.

much appreciated!
 
Here's an exploded view for an 87. The diagram and text don't match up for the 88 model on this site so I linked the 87 which I think is the same.
https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/45764.cfm
 
i guess this is what i need then?

https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0433379&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

i will look for a dealer and bring it in. thanks for the advice.
 

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