Alumacraft?

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I bought this boat two years ago and had to do some work to get it on the water. As the earlier post show, I rebuilt the transom and bought a new 20hp motor.

2013-01-25 09.33.01.jpgIMG_20130411_192515_239.jpg

The fishing is good, but I'm frustrated with storage, rotting decks, and no fish finder. So, it's time to do a complete rebuild. I stripped all the old decking out of the boat.

IMG_20151205_143904842.jpg

IMG_20151205_143859238.jpg

Today, I pulled the motor and flipped the boat on to saw horses. I started cleaning the old paint off with a wire brush. IMG_20151220_154345376.jpg

Now I have questions...
1. Do I need to bang out the dings in the bottom?
2. Do I need to fill the scratches on the bottom?
3. What would you fill them with?
4. Will the wire brush marks show when painting? I'm planning on using Steelflex like so many others mentioned.
5. How clean do the rivet heads, rib edges, ... have to be clean?
 
Windman7 said:
I bought this boat two years ago and had to do some work to get it on the water. As the earlier post show, I rebuilt the transom and bought a new 20hp motor.

View attachment 1

The fishing is good, but I'm frustrated with storage, rotting decks, and no fish finder. So, it's time to do a complete rebuild. I stripped all the old decking out of the boat.

View attachment 3

View attachment 4

Today, I pulled the motor and flipped the boat on to saw horses. I started cleaning the old paint off with a wire brush. View attachment 2

Now I have questions...
1. Do I need to bang out the dings in the bottom?
2. Do I need to fill the scratches on the bottom?
3. What would you fill them with?
4. Will the wire brush marks show when painting? I'm planning on using Steelflex like so many others mentioned.
5. How clean do the rivet heads, rib edges, ... have to be clean?

1. No
2. No.
3. N/a
4. Yes, maybe no, depends on your prep wrork/priming/sanding.
5. Very, if you want it to last and not flake or chip.

Im not an expert, but thats what i think to your questions if i was to redo mine.
 
windman7 if your still looking for info I do believe that is a Rich Line and not a Crestline.

We have one just like it. From the single knee brace to the screw in garboard plug in the bottom.
 
1. Do I need to bang out the dings in the bottom?
Probably a bad idea - the more you flex aluminum (or any metal) the weaker it gets. If your only motive is cosmetics I'd leave them be.

2. Do I need to fill the scratches on the bottom?
Need? No - cosmetic issue up to you.

3. What would you fill them with?
epoxy resin fiberglass

4. Will the wire brush marks show when painting? I'm planning on using Steelflex like so many others mentioned.
Depends on how harsh you are and your other prep work. Epoxy primers fill small gaps fairly well.

5. How clean do the rivet heads, rib edges, ... have to be clean?
Time & patience. You definitely want it clean, not necessarily stripped, but stripped of any flaking paint for sure. Good time to rebuck rivets any leaky rivets before you paint it up pretty. Check out this post for how he prepped the rivets with Gulvit prior to painting, beautiful work https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=33797&start=30 .
 
I applaud your loyalty to, and energy on, your fishing craft.

Nice work on the first project, and best wishes on the second.

=D> =D> =D>
 
Thanks for the good info. I like that everyone is in agreement. Tells me the best route.

What is the best way to fill old rivet holes?
Tig weld?
JB weld?

Do all rivets need to be gluvit?
 
Windman7 said:
What is the best way to fill old rivet holes?
Tig weld?
JB weld?

TIG weld or just set another solid rivet in place of the one you removed - even if you don't attach anything, just get a set of solids with a short grip range - probably a lot cheaper than paying a welder.

Windman7 said:
Do all rivets need to be gluvit?

Need, no - they shouldn't need any at all - it's a belt & suspenders approach. Rebuck them till there are no leaks then double down with gulvit.
 
Started grinding the bottom the other day. Went through two steel wire wheels and cleaned about 25%. It dawned on me later that I should have used stainless steel brushes.

IMG_20151225_114306108_HDR.jpg

Picked up a 6" stainless wire cup brush yesterday. In an hour, I had the rest of the boat finished.

IMG_20151225_124053676_HDR.jpg

 

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Since I used a steel wire brush when I started cleaning the old paint, what problems will I have painting?
Can going over it with a SS wire cup solve the problem?

There is a drain installed in the middle of the boat.
Is it of any real purpose?
Located in the middle of the seat.

IMG_20151225_124110098.jpg

What is the best way to fill the hole in if I remove it?

IMG_20151225_124119299.jpg

I have a Miller 350P mig welder.
If I get a spool gun, will it work on filling in holes?
 
I would have to agree with the previous post....it looks like at Rich Line. I have the Model 15 and it looks identical.
 
Steelflex Prep Questions

I have read good and bad on steelflex. I'm guessing there is a problem with good prep being performed.
What is the right prep for using it?

Is Alodine a good idea?
Alumiprep 33?

Just use a self etching primer?
 
The plug was installed in the middle of the seat and covered by the seat board. Just there.
 
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