Anchor Weight

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BassBlaster

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My boat is a 1436. Typical floor and decking mod, all aluminum. Single group 29 battery. 10 horse outboard with 6 gallon tank and one fat man adding about 260 pounds. I typically fish small lakes, rarely any river or anything with any kind of noticable current. Is a 10 pound anchor enough? Thats what I purchased but now I'm thinking I should have gotten a 15. Just wondering if I should exchange it or not?
 
What type of anchor? mushroom, fluke? the length of the anchorline will also effect the performance of the anchor. I would think 10 lb. might be fine in calmish winds or currents w the right angle/length on the line.
 
The one I got is a mushroom. My anchor line is 50'. I typically fish waters less than 10' and rarely anchor in deeper water. In fact, I rarely anchor at all unless I find some killer structure holding a ton of fish which does happen with spring Crappies. I got the 10 pounder to try and save weight and because Im a tight wad and it was 8 bucks cheaper, lol.
 
What kind of chain and what is the purpose? Ive seen others with chains on thier anchors but never knew why. I dont know a whole lot about anchors. This is my third boat. My last boat, I lost my anchor at Higgins Lake in MI. Somehow the snap came undone and I pulled up an empty line.
 
It adds weight and helps dampen the movement of the anchor line. I use quick links instead of spring clips
 
BassBlaster said:
What kind of chain and what is the purpose? Ive seen others with chains on thier anchors but never knew why. I dont know a whole lot about anchors. This is my third boat. My last boat, I lost my anchor at Higgins Lake in MI. Somehow the snap came undone and I pulled up an empty line.


The chain helps the line lay down instead of tugging at your anchor


Get a Danforth rated for your hull length (a 5 or 9 lb) and 5-10 feet of chain (3/16' will work for you) and you should be nice and sticky. Remember that you want to put out up to three times the depth in the length of your rode


The Danforth with dig harder in any breeze - the mushroom will drag
 
10 lbs. will work fine given your description. If you drag anchor add chain, as mentioned above. And if you add chain, be sure to include a chain sleeve to protect your hull. It doesn't sound like you anchor in strong current, but if you do you may need more than 50 feet of line at a depth of 10 feet. For more precise anchoring over structure, especially in the wind, consider adding a stern anchor.
 
hot dipped galvanized chain will last longer than plain steel, i got my anchor rode (chain) from walmart, it's coated w/ rubber makin it quieter. a 10# is plenty for your jon boat, an anchor only works in current/wind if you have chain on it & put out enough line. as previously mentioned, 3x water depth of anchor line must be let out. so in 7' of water you need to let out 21+ feet of anchor line to keep a shallow angle on the boat pulling against the anchor. the anchor is designed to hold when pulled sideways, & break loose when pulled up. talking a about a regular style anchor & not a mushroom "cajun" anchor. i use a mushroom anchor on the stern & a regular anchor on the bow
 
juggernot said:
What type of anchor? mushroom, fluke? the length of the anchorline will also effect the performance of the anchor. I would think 10 lb. might be fine in calmish winds or currents w the right angle/length on the line.

what he said. i use homeless logging chains for flowing h2o.
 
For your fishing style, I think a couple of ten pound mushroom anchors would work great with just ropes. I use two ten pound mushrooms anchors with nylon ropes and just drop them straight down to help keep the boat in place as I don't use my tin in strong currents or howling winds. I rarely anchor in water more than 20-30 feet. I tried a Danforth style anchor with the sliding rings (I use that and heavy chain on my salt water boat) but it's too clumsy for the limited amount of space in the bow.
 
If I'm fishing in no current, I prefer anchoring with two anchors. But that's for catfishing, where I will be anchored up in one spot for at least an hour or two or more. Drop bow anchor, reverse and draw line taut; drop back anchor and feed out line (do not need as much as bow anchor, usually about half as much); pull on the bow anchor line until the aft anchor is taut; secure bow line. This will hold the boat in one place and hold it fast.

If you use this method, you will need anchors heavier than 10 lbs or a digging type anchor.

If you're just kinda halfassed anchoring so that you can cover cast a spot or take a break or just not really concerned with having your boat hold a specific spot, your 10# will do.

I have never used chains with my anchors. Extra weight and something to just tangle in underwater debris for me. I do not fish extremely deep water so a chain is not needed to lay the line down.
 
Thanks for all the replies!!

I think based on the replies, I'll hold on to the 10 pounder and see how it goes. I may add a chain or a second anchor down the road depending. Thanks again!!

Oh, just FYI, I was searching the net trying to find out the purpose of the chain before you guys responded and I found that your line to depth ratio is suppose to be 7:1. The same article mentioned that most people in shallow water use a 3:1 ratios like you guys mention but technically that isnt correct. Just throwing that out there. I know I dont plan to buy a longer line, at least not at this point.
 
My understanding is that the chain "lays your line down". That way the load on the anchor is closer to being horizontal or parallel to the bottom which prevents lifting of the anchor and reducing is holding strength. If that makes any sense??? ;-)
 
BassBlaster said:
Thanks for all the replies!!

I think based on the replies, I'll hold on to the 10 pounder and see how it goes. I may add a chain or a second anchor down the road depending. Thanks again!!

Oh, just FYI, I was searching the net trying to find out the purpose of the chain before you guys responded and I found that your line to depth ratio is suppose to be 7:1. The same article mentioned that most people in shallow water use a 3:1 ratios like you guys mention but technically that isnt correct. Just throwing that out there. I know I dont plan to buy a longer line, at least not at this point.


7:1 is for extreme storm conditions - were you are in danger if you were to loose anchor. For most, in FW, you will never see that sort of thing while on your boat.
 
On the mushroom anchors, I have found that the lip sharpness (on the digging surface of the anchor) makes a lot of difference in holding power too. The sharper lip digs in better especially on a weedy or harder mud bottom. I also have a "river anchor" that is like a mushroom anchor with sections of the cup cut out, but have not had a chance to compare the two styles for holding power yet. Anybody use this style?
 
Ringo Steele said:
I also have a "river anchor" that is like a mushroom anchor with sections of the cup cut out, but have not had a chance to compare the two styles for holding power yet. Anybody use this style?

I tried an old one of these on my last outing. It did hold well but then again I don't anchor in windy or choppy waters with my aluminum boat. I didn't like it because it is larger and every square foot of real estate in the tin is important.
 
Mushroom anchors in of themselves do not benefit from chain as there holding power is based on the weight of the anchor itself; adding chain would only be adding wt.; where as a Fluke , shovel, fortress and other styles of anchors are optimized by the lenth of chain in a given condition as it dictates how the blades will dig into the bottom.
 

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