Balancing a 12ft Jon Boat well with oversized Outboard motor (20hp)

[newnick]

I have a 12ft Jon Boat new to me with a 20hp Suzuki outboard and it is really too heavy as I sit on back bench with seat nearly all the way to right side of bench so that I can actually steer since tiller needs the center of back bench area. I am the only one aboard and it puts too much weight on back right corner of boat, only a few inches of boat above water there. It is terrifying when I steer at high speeds because just the slightest movement of tiller left or right overpowers the boat's balance and things go haywire, so I have to slow down so much to make slight turns. I hope you will advise me on how to rectify this problem for safety reasons. My plan is to get a tiller extension and try to sit in the middle of the bench in front of the back bench, but I don't know how I will be able to truly be centered on the bench to balance weight since the tiller extension may still be forcing me to move my seat to the right side of boat. That leaves me imagining making my own bizarre Tiller extension that would basically be PVC extending forward to make a large to a "T" that extends further to a SQUARE PVC SHAPE THAT WRAPS AROUND MY BODY in order to make it possible to sit perfectly centered on the bench nearer front of boat, which is actually in the center of the hull. This is the only way I can imagine being able to get centered in boat for balance and able to steer, but I am not sure if the DIY PVC Square shape of a tiller extension will be safe to really try. Please give me your opinions.

 

[jethro]

I hope you will advise me on how to rectify this problem for safety reasons.

Personally I'd get a smaller motor. 12 foot jon boats are usually rated to 5 or 10 hp max. 20 Horse is way too big. Not only are you gonna whip yourself out of that thing, you may damage the hull. If you do use that 20 horse motor PLEASE PROMISE you will use an emergency kill tether at all times becasue you will be ejected from that boat at some point. It's not a matter of if, but when.

 

[sonny1]

I have a 14 ft mod-v hull lonestar and it is rated max at 12 horse. Been thinking and figure about 5 horse is good enough. Most of the time I will be going solo and have no need to go fast at all. I really do not get in much of a hurry at all since retiring. Plan on fishing a lot of backwaters so speed would not be a good idea at all. I just want something that will get me there and back and not have to worry about it.

 

[flatheadsteve]

Sounds like a perfectly good reason to find you a bigger boat if that 20hp Suzuki runs good.

 

[newnick]

I bought it used, and all money is spent, can't upsize to a larger hull guys. The boat is rated for 15hp, so 5 extra is not way too much, but yes it does feel like I could get whipped out of it when I just slightly start to turn at full throttle, so I always wear a life jacket for sure. Anyways, since I can't afford a new boat to go with the motor, I just decided to seldom use max speed and drive medium speed. Anyways, I appreciate your concern, but what I really need is for you to address my first question posted rather than other things, so please read my post again and try to tell me what you know on that subject.....getting a tiller extension and sitting on middle bench instead of near transom on back bench to balance things out, but I wonder is the tiller extension going to allow me to put my seat in the middle of the mid boat bench or will I still be having to shift the seat to the right and be unbalanced. That is why I am trying to invent a PVC tiller extension that would permit me to sit in the center of the bench which will balance the boat and the only way I can imagine the tiller allowing me to to that is by keeping my body in center and tiller in center at same time which would mean I have to make a square shaped PVC attachment that goes around my body and meets the tiller at the "T" point of PVC right behind me.

 

[flatheadsteve]

How will you shift in and out of gear from the middle seat? I would add ballast up front however you can before trying that.

 

[airshot]

Never in my 60 years of being a boat owner, have I saw a 12 jon boat rated for 20 hp. Sounds home made...your biggest issues will be when you or someone else gets injured and sues you for negligence, which is very likely they would win. You really need to consider how your games might affect others around you.

 

[newnick]

I have a 14 ft mod-v hull lonestar and it is rated max at 12 horse. Been thinking and figure about 5 horse is good enough. Most of the time I will be going solo and have no need to go fast at all. I really do not get in much of a hurry at all since retiring. Plan on fishing a lot of backwaters so speed would not be a good idea at all. I just want something that will get me there and back and not have to worry about it.

I wish you would focus on the question.....how do I balance it? I mean since it is a small boat and the motor tiller forces me to sit on the farthest right side of the back bench of the Jon Boat the weight of the motor and myself (200lb. man) are practically sinking me when I first get in since all the weight is in the back where motor is and then I add to the back right side the boat is only about 5 inches above water on the right side of transom. SO I am trying to move my body to be centered but the darn tiller is not allowing me to steer if I sit in middle of the bench, so I have to find a way to manipulate the tiller with an extension that is not made by any company I have seen which would somehow allow me to steer from center without the tiller extension bumping into my body when I try to move it to the right for a left turn. Many would say 'you can move all the extra weight to the left side' but I already have moved gas and battery to the left and it is not enough, and I can't add any more considerable weight to compensate the balance or it would sink, therefore the only option is moving my own body to the center of the bench but I am struggling to figure out how to steer when I do that without a custom made tiller extension that I am trying to make myself but fear it. I also want to shift my body weight forward to the middle of boat's second bench area to get my weight off the rear of boat and a man questioned me 'how will you change gears if you are in middle of boat?' and the answer is I will lift my tiller upright pointing toward the sky for a moment with the throttle at lowest point of speed, make a fast move back there to put into neutral or forward or reverse, then quickly go back to my seat in the center of boat at low speed (idle speed) then lower the tiller back down beside me before I accelerate again. So what I need from you in advise is how to design the tiller that would put me in the center of the boat to balance it without having trouble making turns since it will bump into my body.

 

[Still Afloat]

If it’s a newer EFI 20hp it doesn’t weigh any more than a 9.9. Same motor, just configured differently.

Move you battery as far forward as possible and place the fuel around the center of the boat. You could also go remote control and move your body weight forward. The tiller extensions are a poor option IMO.

A couple of things that you didn’t mention (or I missed it) is the width of the boat and your body weight.

Edit: Ok 200 lbs. If the boat is less than 48” wide you’re asking for trouble.

I went through something similar last year. Bought a brand new Lowe 1240 Jon. It was Ok on really small lakes with a little electric trolling motor but, it didn’t offer the stability that I wanted on bigger lakes and I actually had a pretty good scare. I bought a 1448 this spring and sold the 1240. Lost a grand on the 1240 but, it wasn’t working for me so lesson learned and I moved on.

 

[flatheadsteve]

I wish you would focus on the question.....how do I balance it? I mean since it is a small boat and the motor tiller forces me to sit on the farthest right side of the back bench of the Jon Boat the weight of the motor and myself (200lb. man) are practically sinking me when I first get in since all the weight is in the back where motor is and then I add to the back right side the boat is only about 5 inches above water on the right side of transom. SO I am trying to move my body to be centered but the darn tiller is not allowing me to steer if I sit in middle of the bench, so I have to find a way to manipulate the tiller with an extension that is not made by any company I have seen which would somehow allow me to steer from center without the tiller extension bumping into my body when I try to move it to the right for a left turn. Many would say 'you can move all the extra weight to the left side' but I already have moved gas and battery to the left and it is not enough, and I can't add any more considerable weight to compensate the balance or it would sink, therefore the only option is moving my own body to the center of the bench but I am struggling to figure out how to steer when I do that without a custom made tiller extension that I am trying to make myself but fear it. I also want to shift my body weight forward to the middle of boat's second bench area to get my weight off the rear of boat and a man questioned me 'how will you change gears if you are in middle of boat?' and the answer is I will lift my tiller upright pointing toward the sky for a moment with the throttle at lowest point of speed, make a fast move back there to put into neutral or forward or reverse, then quickly go back to my seat in the center of boat at low speed (idle speed) then lower the tiller back down beside me before I accelerate again. So what I need from you in advise is how to design the tiller that would put me in the center of the boat to balance it without having trouble making turns since it will bump into my body.

Have you ever operated a boat before? What you describe for shifting gears is reckless and a good way to burn up a water pump. You'll find yourself going into and out of gear more often than you think and or needing reverse at times to slow or stop momentum. Swap the tiller to a stick steer or add a small forward console if adding ballast isn't an option . If your that worried that adding 50lbs of ballast all the way up front will sink the boat then its already got too much weight in it

 

[Still Afloat]

I don’t mean to be nit-picky but, your posts are hard to read. The use of paragraphs helps a lot with readability. I’m not an English master by any means so just take that as a friendly suggestion.

 

[LDUBS]

What boat make/model do you have?

For me you are describing a very unstable situation. I understand your concern with a hand width of freeboard. Even on a calm day another boat's wake will be a swamping hazard. The question is, even if you were able to center where you sit, would the stability problem be resolved? If yes, then perhaps the stick steer mentioned above by @flatheadsteve is worth exploring.

 

[GilK]

What you are wanting to do with the tiller extension isn't going to work like you want nor will it be safe. The whole thing has to rotate so the part going around your body will be rotating as well and would hit you at open throttle. And you can't jump into the back to change gears in an emergency.
Since you can't afford a bigger boat, you're best bet would be sell your motor and buy a smaller motor or trade (with them giving you some cash too) for a smaller motor.

 

[LDUBS]

I don’t mean to be nit-picky but, your posts are hard to read. The use of paragraphs helps a lot with readability. I’m not an English master by any means so just take that as a friendly suggestion.

Your post is a public service message! Not just for the OP but others too can help my tired old eyes by using paragraph breaks!

OK, sorry for going off topic.

 

[newnick]

If it’s a newer EFI 20hp it doesn’t weigh any more than a 9.9. Same motor, just configured differently.

Move you battery as far forward as possible and place the fuel around the center of the boat. You could also go remote control and move your body weight forward. The tiller extensions are a poor option IMO.

A couple of things that you didn’t mention (or I missed it) is the width of the boat and your body weight.

It's a 2016 Suzuki 20hp, so I don't know if that is heavier than a 9.9hp or not, not sure if it is EFI but I think it is. I already did the battery and fuel things your mentioned. PLEASE tell me how do I go remote control? I never heard of that with gas motors, only trolling motors have that option I thought.
You asked so I will tell you the boat hull is barely 3 feet wide and I weigh almost 200. I eagerly wait news about 'remote control' for my gas motor, that would solve the problem if I could move my body to the center of boat and steer remotely!

 

[newnick]

Have you ever operated a boat before? What you describe for shifting gears is reckless and a good way to burn up a water pump. You'll find yourself going into and out of gear more often than you think and or needing reverse at times to slow or stop momentum. Swap the tiller to a stick steer or add a small forward console if adding ballast isn't an option . If your that worried that adding 50lbs of ballast all the way up front will sink the boat then its already got too much weight in it

yes, as far as I know a 12ft Jon boat 3ft wide should only have about 450lbs. max, and me and the motor together almost reach that I guess, but I did have another adult man ride in front of me once and it was ok since his weight did balance things better. I am not new to boating, I am just new to gas motors with so much power, so I suppose there will rise a day that you're right about me needing reverse suddenly to avoid bumping into something I did not see in advance. I suppose I am too worried about adding weight because I want to reserve the remaining space for another person when I have a guest, or when I land an enormous Alligator Gar when bowfishing!

 

[LDUBS]

For outboards, the term "remote steering" literally means a steering wheel, throttle, and gear shift connected to the motor by cables. It is not a foot pedal or electronic remote like those used for trolling motors. Another form of remote steering is the stick steering mentioned in an earlier post.

 

[newnick]

Your post is a public service message! Not just for the OP but others too can help my tired old eyes by using paragraph breaks!

OK, sorry for goin

it's better I don't reply, I don't want to be contentious like my wife is.

 

[newnick]

For outboards, the term "remote steering" literally means a steering wheel, throttle, and gear shift connected to the motor by cables. It is not a foot pedal or electronic remote like those used for trolling motors. Another form of remote steering is the stick steering mentioned in an earlier post.

those things are far too costly for me to pay for, this is a used old boat, a center console is a dream for me that cannot be achieved

 

[newnick]

What you are wanting to do with the tiller extension isn't going to work like you want nor will it be safe. The whole thing has to rotate so the part going around your body will be rotating as well and would hit you at open throttle. And you can't jump into the back to change gears in an emergency.
Since you can't afford a bigger boat, you're best bet would be sell your motor and buy a smaller motor or trade (with them giving you some cash too) for a smaller motor.

It's far easier to just rarely drive fast which is what I do for safety and comfort since it is a flatbottom boat that bangs on waves too hard, so I reserve full throttle for the rare occasion when there is no wind or waves to enjoy a wild run at high speed.