Crankbaits and Treble hooks.. Must Read

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russ010

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OK.. so here's something I've been meaning to share for some time, but the time for crankbait season is upon some of us and this is something I think should warrant your attention.

Crankbaits are one of my main baits from now until next spring season. I am a big fan of Norman lures for a few reasons: 1 - they last 2 - they catch big fish 3 - they are cheap (main reason). Most of the Norman lures I have ever bought run true out of the box, so it's more time fishing and less time trying to get it to run right. One thing about cheaper cranks - they have cheaper hooks (in my opinion) and seem to bend easily.

I replace all of my hooks with the following (and I buy them according to which one I can get the best price/quantity on). A few people may disagree, but most of the hooks I use to replace with are short shaft hook. I like them because when you get into the 3x and 4x, they are a little bigger diameter, and when they embed in the fishes mouth, They say there - they don't allow too much play in my opinion and it really makes a difference. This weekend during our tournament, I caught a nice one (6lbs 11oz), but I also lost 2 good fish. I think the main reason I lost them were on 2 counts - 1: I was using a heavy action rod to get the bait down to where I wanted it quicker (I lost them at the boat when my rod had too much backbone and not enough flex) 2: I never replaced the hooks on this particular crankbait and the bass simply threw it because they were lightly hooked after being hooked on a long cast.

I prefer the round bend style of hooks as well. I don't like the wide gap or extra wide gap because I feel it give more room for the fish to throw the bait.

One other thing I sometimes do (depending on where I'm fishing) is to upsize the hook by one size. So if the hook come with a #4, I'll replace them with a #2 hook, as long as the hooks don't tangle during the cast or retrieve. Sometimes I'll replace the front hook with the same size, then put a larger in the rear (*and vice versa - larger belly, same rear) But it's a personal preference, and you just have to find out what works best for you and the fish. One other thing to consider when upsizing is that the larger the hook, the more weight your adding, and this will affect how your lure comes through the water.

Here are my choices (in no particular order) for hook brands. (most of my crankbaits in the Norman lures use #4 hooks)

1. VMC 4x (Favorite for Deep Cranking (15-22'))
2. Owner 3x (Favorite for Medium Cranking (8-14'))
3. Mustad XXX (Favorite for shallow cranking (1-4'))
3. Daiichi Death Trap (I use these on topwater, but I've only used the Death Trap label and I've only been using them for 2 months on Rat-L-Traps).. so I'm still a little leary of this one

Don't be afraid to try it out - get in the ditches, creek channels, grass, rocks, stumps - it doesn't matter as long as you're hitting something to deflect the lure... All of my fish this past weekend and this week have come off the crankbait. 80-90* water temps, sunny and cloudy days - and even when the barometer was dropping once. Don't be afraid to lose your crank - if you're afraid to throw it into cover, I can almost guarantee you that's the the big bass is going to be hiding because unfortunately - he didn't get that big by being caught were everybody else is throwing...

Here's something I recommend to get your cranks back too - a good retriever. I've used the hound dog and pole types and they both work. But the hound dog is cumbersome to work in my opinion, and the pole just takes up too much room for me. I use a Woo Dave's Pocket Knocker and I have yet to loose a lure (unless my line was too small of a diameter or it was knicked up from abrasion).

Tight Lines! :beer:
 
dyeguy1212 said:
Good post! I just got back from Bass Pro, where I impulse bought a 7 MH Crankin Stick, because they were on clearance for 50 bucks.

That's a good buy. I actually bought a custom 7' M cranking rod some time ago, but I have yet to get the reel right for that particular rod. I did however just purchase (and it's on its' way!) one of the new Wright & McGill Tessera Skeet Reese rods (I got the cranking stick which is a glass/graphite composite) for $89. If this rod holds up, I'm going to be replacing all of my rods to these as my older rods break or wear out.

I just changed one of my Skeet Reese reels and my 7'1" MH GLoomis to a cranking rod and so far it has really made a difference (well, a difference since Saturday of using a Heavy rod). I'll make another post after using this rod for a little while, but the big handle on the skeet reels make it easy to crank all day. I'm looking now into the Revo Winch reels which are 5.1:1 ratio... I think the Skeet Revos are 6.3:1, but they are great for medium cranking so far, as well as worms, jigs and top water...
 
Good post Russ! I too switch out hooks on a lot of my crankbaits. I like the VMC, Owner and Mustad trebles too. I've never had good luck with any type of Daiichi hook though. They tend to dull quickly and I've even had some break on me.
 
G3_Guy said:
Good post Russ! I too switch out hooks on a lot of my crankbaits. I like the VMC, Owner and Mustad trebles too. I've never had good luck with any type of Daiichi hook though. They tend to dull quickly and I've even had some break on me.

I forgot mustad - but I only use those in 4x on my topwater lures... I've been using the Daiichi for about 2 months, and I really haven't used them much since I use them on my Rat-L-Traps... they seem to be holding out good on them so far.

I think I've mentioned before that I test line in the store before I buy it to see if I can break it... I do the same thing with hooks. I'll open the pack up and run the point across my fingernail.. if it digs in it passed the first test... the second thing I do is pull out my leatherman (in secrecy of course) and see how hard it is for me to bend the hook.

I've yet to bend the Owner 3x or the VMC 4x with those...
 
nice post I also love NORMAN crank baits. and also change the hooks I also change the split rings and use the oval or triangle split rings.
I have had a lot of success using the sure set hooks. i feel the help when i am using a deep diving crank bait on a very long cast. my go to hooks are gammy's after that.

I also have the hound dog that I added chains to and have not lost a lure in a while the chains grab the remaining hooks and the lure pulls free..

Wayne
 
I really want one of those revo winch reels, but they are just plain out of my price range. (I really really wish they made a high speed version for top water frogging)


I'm looking into buying a dave fritts BPS reel. They get great reviews, but it does have a 6 pin braking system, which sort of turns me off considering I'll be using many different crankbaits with only one crankin setup (for now)
 
dyeguy1212 said:
I really want one of those revo winch reels, but they are just plain out of my price range. (I really really wish they made a high speed version for top water frogging

I don't know if y'all are aware of it or not.. but you can buy any Revo reel from Walmart.com... That's where I get mine, and I may pay retail price for them, but I use Bill Me Later as the option so I have 6 months to pay same as cash... it doesn't hit a credit report or anything either, it's just like an open line of credit. Just another option to look into if you really want one
 
Wow thats not a bad idea at all. I looked into them, and found the deal they have now, where if you buy any revo series over 170, you get a pair of wiley x sunglasses free. I'm actually considering dropping the money now... :shock:

Russ, check your pm's, I need to pick your brain :mrgreen:
 
:twisted: The Rapala DT series are some of the best cranks out there. There a bit pricey but then there is no need to change the hooks or split rings. I also use the Norman DD series cranks for the real deep stuff.
Another way to entice bass into hitting a crank is bouncing it off the bottom stirring up the silt. I've caught some big fish using this technique. Here's one from a while back on a DT10 fished in four feet of water......
 

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Nice one Fish Devil...

I do like the hooks on the DT series cranks, but for some reason they don't stay as sharp as long as I want them to, so when they dull I change them out.. they are some freaking sharp hooks out of the pack though - and you can't bend them. I think they either use the VMC or Mustad hooks, I can't remember.

But if you throw that DT 10 in 4' of water where I fish, you'll lose your bulldog trying to retrieve it (I usually just jump in and grab it from that depth, especially if it's hot out!)
 
russ010 said:
Nice one Fish Devil...

I do like the hooks on the DT series cranks, but for some reason they don't stay as sharp as long as I want them to, so when they dull I change them out.. they are some freaking sharp hooks out of the pack though - and you can't bend them. I think they either use the VMC or Mustad hooks, I can't remember.

But if you throw that DT 10 in 4' of water where I fish, you'll lose your bulldog trying to retrieve it (I usually just jump in and grab it from that depth, especially if it's hot out!)
The dt's use a vmc david frits hook if I remember correctly. For my crankin I go with gammas on my bigger baits, and have started using triple grips on top water, and traps, and manns -1s, which I believe use to come stock with triple grips.
 
Here are my choices (in no particular order) for hook brands. (most of my crankbaits in the Norman lures use #4 hooks)

1. VMC 4x (Favorite for Deep Cranking (15-22'))
2. Owner 3x (Favorite for Medium Cranking (8-14'))
3. Mustad XXX (Favorite for shallow cranking (1-4'))
3. Daiichi Death Trap (I use these on topwater, but I've only used the Death Trap label and I've only been using them for 2 months on Rat-L-Traps).. so I'm still a little leary of this one


I have some chuggers that need the rear hook replaced and they came with the a feathered rear treble. Anyplace to buy these?
 
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