ohm
Well-known member
Hey Jeff Lebowski, any new progress, I'm sharing a similar dream here in Keizer with my 12ft SeaKing V-boat.
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Jeff Lebowski
Member
ohm said:
Ha thats funny, i'm in keizer/salem also, small world. Ive actually made a ton of progress and am almost finished [-o< Just need to get my last base/pedestal in and install, put the rear deck carpet on, and we're golden. I'll have some pictures up tonight of all the progress.
I actually had a 12' v hull that i was going to put a low deck/floor in, but decided on a more stable platform with the jon boat. The v hull just sold this weekend too. Ill post the update tonight after i work on it some more!
Jeff Lebowski
Member
I slack on updating and working on it as much as i should...such is life. Almost finished, here we go:
Wasn't going to use chipwood at all, but figured for the walls it was fine. Floor framing was coated with thompsons.
This gives a better view, don't mind the savage scrapes along the side, there was a thick layer of sealant/calking there from the pole holder bracket ](*,)
Again, wasn't too concerned with the wood for the inner floor walls, coated them all with thompsons anways, but for the time being and first go round, ill let it slide. (not to mention none of it hits the floor)
I had a wild hair up my *** one night, so i said lets rock n roll and see how far i can get...my first time using marine carpet and the adhesive, not a bad process, holds up solid. One man operation with measuring, cutting, holding, applying :-({|= haha, this was the easy area!
Another angle
Shot of the corner, not too shabby
Finished up the framing for the seat bases, test fit before the next step.
One on the right for when i'm driving, one in the middle for person fishing in the rear. All of the bases were attached through the framing using bolts, washers, and nuts instead of lags, i figured why not for the extra strength?
Heres my little DIY that came out pretty nice (call it the ding dong). Started with a piece of 1x6 cedar, put the FF base on the wood, trace, jigsaw out, sand, paint with aluminum spray, drill hole through the middle, insert carriage bolt through wood AND oar holder, put on washer, put on wing/nut (i used 2 nuts and tightened together leaving the base to swivel freely but not too loose), reattach base with 3/4" screws, and we call it a beaut!
Have to give credit to member OLD BILL for his original idea, thank you good sir =D> You'll see later on he had influence on the transducer as well.
Another angle
Heres the battery location and notching to fit. It was the only place on the boat that was actually deep enough to sit under the decking. More of this area to come...pay no attention to the late night, beer induced jigsawing :wink:
Start of the bilge pump area, more here later too
Got back to the decking for a while. Originally i was going to use carboard and set it on top of the gunwales, trace, cut down the middle and overlap until fit. I couldnt for the life of me find an appliance/improvement store willing to part with a fridge box, they all recycle them, EVERY SINGLE LAST BOX :x Moving onto plan B, using construction paper from my moms grade school (3' wide) i was able to lay it down and trim accordingly, or at least close enough. Worked out really well since i had to figure where the framing and seat base was at, so seeing right through the white contstruction paper really paid off. I suggest this method to anyone as it's easy to work with, you can see right through it to plan out where you're hatches and such need to be, and it's cheap.
Another angle, just take the paper off when done and lay right on top of the deck wood!
Unfortunately at this point i didn't take any pictures of the tracing, dimensions, and cutting of the decking, front or back I forget to pull out the phone and snap away when i'm bustin *** trying to finish lol. Where the front deck starts is wider than 4', so i couldn't use my 4x8 piece of plywood like i wanted to. Turing the paper template sideways and making the front deck a 2 piece was the only option. It worked and the seam is barely noticable, i guess that's what i get for having a wide boat haha :-s
I set all the hatch doors (5) a half inch in from the actual opening. I had originally intended to have the front/rear decks along with the floor all wrapped in carpet before installing, buuuuut my cuts were pretty close to the sides and i didnt want to have it not sit flat and flush. Because i was now going to install the decks/floor first then carpet it in the boat, i now had to get all my hatches cut out, hinged, and latched as well as installing the seat bases before laying the carpet down. This made for a slow process and had to redo a few things a few different times, again lots of ](*,)
Shot of the floor, walls, and front deck. You can kind of see here that the area above the decking on the walls were also covered in carpet, a nice finish
A better shot of the front area pretty much all tied up
Wasn't sure if i wanted to carpet up, or just paint the walls. Glad i went with carpet You can also see the door hinges. I was going to notch into the deck to have them sit flush, but the carpet hid them pretty well. The flush handles for the doors were going to just go on top of the carpet, buuuut i decided to get crazy and make them completely flush (chisel and SHARP razor blades). Again, no pictures but the only piece that is visible is where you put your finger to lift up.
Getting close...
FF setup, rear deck, carpeted walls, and 2 switches in the back...
Left is for the bilge pump, right is for the FF
Few shots of the rear deck. I didn't want any of the wiring on the floor, everything's attached to the framing.
Back to the battery...i needed a way to keep it held down, after a little thinking and brainstorming "sessions", came to this. Works like a charm, will wall in the side and front and call it good (sitting on carpet). Piece of aluminum, couple bolts, couple wing nuts and you're set.
Again...it's easily removable too, loosen up a nut and it slides off.
Bilge pump finished, drain plug still works if things get crazy. Magnet on the framing and the lid to keep held down, works nice. Thats the transducer cord going up and out by the hose.
Here you can see the handles sunk flush with the deck, the middle open area is for the 6g gas tank, and the open hole next to the seat is for the driving base when it arrives. The tank area will be walled in to separate from the battery, safety first kids.
Throughout the build, i can't say i've drilled into the boat shell once. I wanted to keep it like this to prevent any filling, future open holes ect. The transducer gave me a run for me money. The black holders, those are zipties cut down with about a 1/8" left, put a hole through it, then drill a small 1/2" screw into the wood transom brace, and finish with marine sealant just in case. The transducer bracket screwed into the existing green drain plug piece with short screws, still not puncturing the metal, only the plastic. And the cover, that's a custom piece that used to be an old shift knob cover in my car. I'd praise it more, but it was made by my ex, so [-X
How it sits until the base arrives (seat is in driving position, just no base yet). Contemplating painting the OB, but id really like to get it out on the water sooner than later, maybe ill paint it this winter 8)
From the transom forward
Another with the seats
Tank/rear deck area
Bow back
Without the seat
Doors open x3
Freshly painted spare with new hardware and used rubber from schwabs for $20
Stopper bracket i made. To stop the boat previously, the spare tire was used. I wasn't a fan of that, so some hardware and metal later, here it is.
I could say i'll update soon, but if i did, i know there's a slight chance of fail. :LOL2:
Wasn't going to use chipwood at all, but figured for the walls it was fine. Floor framing was coated with thompsons.
This gives a better view, don't mind the savage scrapes along the side, there was a thick layer of sealant/calking there from the pole holder bracket ](*,)
Again, wasn't too concerned with the wood for the inner floor walls, coated them all with thompsons anways, but for the time being and first go round, ill let it slide. (not to mention none of it hits the floor)
I had a wild hair up my *** one night, so i said lets rock n roll and see how far i can get...my first time using marine carpet and the adhesive, not a bad process, holds up solid. One man operation with measuring, cutting, holding, applying :-({|= haha, this was the easy area!
Another angle
Shot of the corner, not too shabby
Finished up the framing for the seat bases, test fit before the next step.
One on the right for when i'm driving, one in the middle for person fishing in the rear. All of the bases were attached through the framing using bolts, washers, and nuts instead of lags, i figured why not for the extra strength?
Heres my little DIY that came out pretty nice (call it the ding dong). Started with a piece of 1x6 cedar, put the FF base on the wood, trace, jigsaw out, sand, paint with aluminum spray, drill hole through the middle, insert carriage bolt through wood AND oar holder, put on washer, put on wing/nut (i used 2 nuts and tightened together leaving the base to swivel freely but not too loose), reattach base with 3/4" screws, and we call it a beaut!
Have to give credit to member OLD BILL for his original idea, thank you good sir =D> You'll see later on he had influence on the transducer as well.
Another angle
Heres the battery location and notching to fit. It was the only place on the boat that was actually deep enough to sit under the decking. More of this area to come...pay no attention to the late night, beer induced jigsawing :wink:
Start of the bilge pump area, more here later too
Got back to the decking for a while. Originally i was going to use carboard and set it on top of the gunwales, trace, cut down the middle and overlap until fit. I couldnt for the life of me find an appliance/improvement store willing to part with a fridge box, they all recycle them, EVERY SINGLE LAST BOX :x Moving onto plan B, using construction paper from my moms grade school (3' wide) i was able to lay it down and trim accordingly, or at least close enough. Worked out really well since i had to figure where the framing and seat base was at, so seeing right through the white contstruction paper really paid off. I suggest this method to anyone as it's easy to work with, you can see right through it to plan out where you're hatches and such need to be, and it's cheap.
Another angle, just take the paper off when done and lay right on top of the deck wood!
Unfortunately at this point i didn't take any pictures of the tracing, dimensions, and cutting of the decking, front or back
I forget to pull out the phone and snap away when i'm bustin *** trying to finish lol. Where the front deck starts is wider than 4', so i couldn't use my 4x8 piece of plywood like i wanted to. Turing the paper template sideways and making the front deck a 2 piece was the only option. It worked and the seam is barely noticable, i guess that's what i get for having a wide boat haha :-s I set all the hatch doors (5) a half inch in from the actual opening. I had originally intended to have the front/rear decks along with the floor all wrapped in carpet before installing, buuuuut my cuts were pretty close to the sides and i didnt want to have it not sit flat and flush. Because i was now going to install the decks/floor first then carpet it in the boat, i now had to get all my hatches cut out, hinged, and latched as well as installing the seat bases before laying the carpet down. This made for a slow process and had to redo a few things a few different times, again lots of ](*,)
Shot of the floor, walls, and front deck. You can kind of see here that the area above the decking on the walls were also covered in carpet, a nice finish
A better shot of the front area pretty much all tied up
Wasn't sure if i wanted to carpet up, or just paint the walls. Glad i went with carpet
You can also see the door hinges. I was going to notch into the deck to have them sit flush, but the carpet hid them pretty well. The flush handles for the doors were going to just go on top of the carpet, buuuut i decided to get crazy and make them completely flush (chisel and SHARP razor blades). Again, no pictures but the only piece that is visible is where you put your finger to lift up.
Getting close...
FF setup, rear deck, carpeted walls, and 2 switches in the back...
Left is for the bilge pump, right is for the FF
Few shots of the rear deck. I didn't want any of the wiring on the floor, everything's attached to the framing.
Back to the battery...i needed a way to keep it held down, after a little thinking and brainstorming "sessions", came to this. Works like a charm, will wall in the side and front and call it good (sitting on carpet). Piece of aluminum, couple bolts, couple wing nuts and you're set.
Again...it's easily removable too, loosen up a nut and it slides off.
Bilge pump finished, drain plug still works if things get crazy. Magnet on the framing and the lid to keep held down, works nice. Thats the transducer cord going up and out by the hose.
Here you can see the handles sunk flush with the deck, the middle open area is for the 6g gas tank, and the open hole next to the seat is for the driving base when it arrives. The tank area will be walled in to separate from the battery, safety first kids.
Throughout the build, i can't say i've drilled into the boat shell once. I wanted to keep it like this to prevent any filling, future open holes ect. The transducer gave me a run for me money. The black holders, those are zipties cut down with about a 1/8" left, put a hole through it, then drill a small 1/2" screw into the wood transom brace, and finish with marine sealant just in case. The transducer bracket screwed into the existing green drain plug piece with short screws, still not puncturing the metal, only the plastic. And the cover, that's a custom piece that used to be an old shift knob cover in my car. I'd praise it more, but it was made by my ex, so [-X
How it sits until the base arrives (seat is in driving position, just no base yet). Contemplating painting the OB, but id really like to get it out on the water sooner than later, maybe ill paint it this winter 8)
From the transom forward
Another with the seats
Tank/rear deck area
Bow back
Without the seat
Doors open x3
Freshly painted spare with new hardware and used rubber from schwabs for $20
Stopper bracket i made. To stop the boat previously, the spare tire was used. I wasn't a fan of that, so some hardware and metal later, here it is.
I could say i'll update soon, but if i did, i know there's a slight chance of fail. :LOL2:
ben2go
Well-known member
Sweetttttt build.That's clean and smooth looking.
ober51
Well-known member
=D>
Helluva job. Definitely using some of this as I do mine at some point, great work.
Question,
How many things are powered off one battery?
Helluva job. Definitely using some of this as I do mine at some point, great work.
Question,
How many things are powered off one battery?
Jeff Lebowski
Member
Thank you good sirs...Ober the FF, bilge pump and trolling motor will run off the battery. Trolling motor and FF will be the only 2 things on at the same time. Think i'll run into some problems? The wiring really isn't too extensive, should i look at onboard chargers?
ober51
Well-known member
Jeff Lebowski said:
I am not saying it will or wont be a problem, I am simply trying to see if I will need another battery, lol. I bought a Guest 2 bank, but have one battery right now. I would only be using it as a starting motor for my 9.9 Yamaha, running the trolling motor, lights and maybe a FF at some point. Once I start the mod, I think I may expand and get another for a cd player, some led lights, etc.
I think you should be fine, though. I am avoiding paying the exorbitant prices of 4/6 wire at West Marine, but havent found a local place. Know of any?
Question (a bit unrelated), will an electric start Yamaha (2003) charge my battery when I am running the motor? I thought it would but I wasnt sure.
ohm
Well-known member
=D> Very nice, I haven't gotten much done on mine today, mines outside and still has water in it from Sunday Is that the $3 a foot carpet from Lowes? I was thinking on using the same stuff, also how much of the glue did you go through, I don't want to spend too much.
Is that the $3 a foot carpet from Lowes? I was thinking on using the same stuff, also how much of the glue did you go through, I don't want to spend too much.
Jeff Lebowski
Member
ober51 said:
I gotcha, i was hoping i would be fine, i can't imagine the FF drawing too much, and the trolling motor doesn't do too much damage to it for a few hours. I too was thinking of adding a cd player, i think at that point i'd look at a larger capacity battery or an onboard charger.
Being in oregon, im not too familiar with the local stores in Jersey
When you say 4/6 do you mean gauge size?I can't say i know the answer about charging the battery with your OB...being a newer engine, maybe it has a alt type setup to charge while running?
ohm said:=D> Very nice, I haven't gotten much done on mine today, mines outside and still has water in it from Sunday
Thanks...luckily ive got a garage spot for mine so i avoided the thunderstorm. I believe it was the $3 a ft. I've spent more time and money at the lowes in the keizer station than any other place recently haha...good thing i live close. Glue is right next to the carpet, i used 1 complete tub so far, and i've still got the rear deck to go. Ill only use a little of the 2nd container, if you're sparse and don't have alot, 1 will be fine.
ohm
Well-known member
No kidding, how close to Lowes, I am literally 5 minutes away if I all the lights are red , I live off McLeod which is off of Lockhaven.
I am going to only carpet the tops of the seats and rear deck and floor, I am going to paint the inside of the sides and the vertical portions of the seats with Rustoleum Hunter Green, should look nice with the gray carpet and brass hardware. By the looks of it I should have extra with just the small tub and I figure I will need at most 6 feet of the carpet as it is 6 feet wide so it shouldn't be too bad.
, I live off McLeod which is off of Lockhaven.I am going to only carpet the tops of the seats and rear deck and floor, I am going to paint the inside of the sides and the vertical portions of the seats with Rustoleum Hunter Green, should look nice with the gray carpet and brass hardware. By the looks of it I should have extra with just the small tub and I figure I will need at most 6 feet of the carpet as it is 6 feet wide so it shouldn't be too bad.
MikeA57
Well-known member
Jeff Lebowski said:
Maybe you mentioned it and I missed it but why does it have to be 12' and not larger?
Mike
Jeff Lebowski
Member
MikeA57 said:
The boat and trailer have a garage spot that limits the length i can squeeze in. My setup right now literally has about a foot of play in the back to still walk past, if i picked up a 14' + trailer, i know that the tongue wouldn't clear the garage door and still have room at the back.
I would have loved to get a 14', but it just wasnt in the cards right now. I'll take garage spot over legnth....for now :lol:
cyberflexx
Well-known member
Jeff Lebowski said:
find you a trailer with a folding tounge? I have to do that with my Ranger
Jeff Lebowski
Member
cyberflexx said:
Sounds expensive... if i had your Ranger i'd have a trailer like that as well :lol: This $600 boat/trailer/motor combo is perfect for my budget.
MikeA57
Well-known member
That turned out real nice Jeff! Have you used it yet?
Jeff Lebowski
Member
MikeA57 said:
Thanks Mike. Haven't been out yet. The last base is supposed to get here today, but i'm going to take it to the lake later on today and make sure stability and leaks are no problem. I'll check back and give an update on the first splash down.
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