MMF'S-1990 Tracker TX-17 Alum Build (FINAL PIX 10/22/11)

[mmf]

How are the pool noodles going to support the rear deck? In my tracker the foam is also used to support the all-aluminum rear deck. Do you have to build some sort of structure?

I will be covering mine with 3/16" diamond plate aluminum the full width and length and the vertical walls and side angle supports, along with the bent front lip supports should do the job. I, nor the people I fish with weigh over 180 lbs so strain should be minimum. The big deck lid at the fuel tank/battery compartment did not have any re-inforcement on the back of it from the factory, but I will be covering this and any lids I use with the diamond plate as well.

 

[stone4140]

I have used the pool noodles on about 10 aluminum boat restorations so far and have yet to find one that soaks up water in my usage. I am not going to say there is an exception to the rule from different manufacturers, or similar types but I have not had your experience yet.

I have seen a couple of guys on the forum use "insulation boards" from a building supplier like Lowe's or Home Depot, but realize these insulation boards, although they will float, are not made for the sole purpose of floatation or exposure to continous water intrusion so they may support the growth of fungus/mildew too, a bad deal for any boat that has any wood in it's construction. Mildew will spread like wildfire in damp places, especially in the bildge area of the boat.

How many pool noodles does it take on average for a aluminum boat?

 

[mmf]

on this boat it will probably take 2-3 cases of noodles due to my removal of all of the foam.

 

[mmf]

upon cleaning the inside of the aluminum transom today I found several deep pits that were the product of electrolosis corrosion. One of the pits barely goes all the way through the aluminum. I will clean again, sand rough and apply marine epoxy to these deep pits then apply good zinc chromate primer. After this I will scab on a large piece of the diamond plate all across the back of the transom for insurance purposes. Thought I also would share the use of a sealer I have been using on transoms for quite awhile, it is PL adhesive's roof and flashing sealer in a cartridge tube, this is great stuff when dried, just like rubber and seals everything 100%, much better than silicone. I also apply this to the side of the transom wood that goes against the inside portion of the aluminum and all through bolts on transom. It is messy but worth it for it's sealing abilities.

 

[mmf]

Well, not much work has been happening with the boat lately, worked my long week last week and now this Monday we had another 10 inches of snow then sleet on top of it so here it is 2 weeks later and the boat interior and everything encased in a hard crust of thick ice and snow and 13 degree temperature tonight.

I did buy the diamond plate for the back deck, but they did not have a scrap piece wide enough to do it in one piece so I bought 3 seperate pieces and cut them as needed. Must make a new wood transom now and with the cold temps, it will take a LONG time for the marine spar varnish to dry between coats, also good news, a guy is coming to buy my Merc 40 tiller motor tomorrow and that will give me the money I need to complete this project. Sunday is suppose to warm to 50 degrees so maybe we will have some good melting going on. Buying transom plywood and a little more diamond plate aluminum will probably be my "project day" for tomorrow, but allows much time for thought! :wink:

 

[mmf]

Been working on and off when I can due to work schedule, have the transom cut and sealed with marine spar plus all my aluminum transom additions have been cut and drilled. I will have more pictures soon, working on my vehicles has caused delays too but I expect to be finished by late spring (I hope).

 

[reedjj]

Hey whats going on with this build????

If your still out there I need a favor? what are the measurements of your boat! Beam width and floor width?

I may be getting a good deal on a tracker tx17.

 

[mmf]

Sorry for the extremely LATE reply, the beam is approx 72" and the floor bottom is 4 ft.
I have not worked on the project for a good while due to working on outboards, so now it is the end of June and HOT as BLAZES here! Early in the morning and late in the evening is the ticket now. I have installed the new wood transom, sealed it in and re-installed the top cap. I fabricated a new transom cap from aluminum and have also made 2 corner plates to install over the cut weld joints at the rear sides. I will be SS bolting these in both thru the transom and also bolted thru the gunnel, they are made of 3/16" diamond plate and much thicker than the aluminum on the top cap. I still have one old thru hole fitting to seal with a splice plate near the bottom of the boat.
I installed a diamond plate piece on the front top bow deck for reinforcement and removed the original plywood that was under this area. I riveted this in with some high strength aluminum rivets I purchased from McMaster-Carr online, these are completely aluminum and seem very strong.
Here is a few more pics of my SLOW progress I will post some of the corner splice plates and transom cap in a couple of days................

 

[mmf]

Thought I would post this again, anyone who is doing a build that has the need to replace a rivet should consider these rivets that you can buy from Florida Auto Fastener.com, they sell on ebay or from their site. I use them all the time on aluminum boats. These are Stainless steel rivets with stainless steel kep nuts, have a 10-32 machine thread and you tighten them with a small wrench. A little sealer under the head and they seal really good. I have not had any problems with them after installing 3-4 hundred of them the past few years. You must however be able to get to both sides of the rivet to install. They are 3/8" long with a .430 head diameter and install in a 3/16" drill hole just like regular rivets. Here's a link to their ebay item: https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Che...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
They are priced at $9.99 for 25 of them and they look GREAT!

 

[mmf]

4th of July weekend, stuck home but will get alot done, 90 degrees and climbing as I write.
Here are the pix of the splice plates and transom cap I fabbed this week. Finally Installed.

These are the high strength rivets from McMaster-Carr

below, the very front I covered with the 3/16" diamond plate, this makes this area almost a 1/4" thick with the original aluminum below, it had a piece of 3/4" plywood below this but I removed it, don't need it now, it's very sturdy!

Going to start next on the front deck, then the floor, then rear of the boat. I will then turn the boat over to attack the bottom. Will continue to post my progress..........

 

[mmf]

Really way too hot to do this aluminum work outside in the full sun, after 1 PM this metal gets so hot it will burn you! Suffered and did it anyway, pouring sweat all day. Finally got the front deck all riveted up and fitted. 45 rivets just in the front deck, so I had to order 2 more boxes from McMaster-Carr in Atlanta today.....................

Next, I am installing the main deck floor after I trim the 2 pieces I have to butt joint over one of the floor ribs............

I have decided to go ahead and put back in the original side console for time sake, I think I have enough DP to cover this too.............

Side panels cleaned and I will have to lengthen them too since I removed some of the storage bins....

More metal to cut!

I will post the floor next............

 

[fish2keel]

wow I love the diamond plate? Was it a local pick up or did you get it online?

Keep up the work!

 

[mmf]

I bought this locally at a scrap metal business, he has brand new sheets or when I bought it, he had some cut (sheared) pieces that they sell for $1.25/lb.. The price of aluminum has probably gone up since then because it was February when I last purchased any. Thanks for the reply, I trimmed the main floor pieces yesterday and will probably rivet them in this afternoon after work, weather co-operating, many strong storms lately plus the intense heat, but I see you're in Florida and I know it's cooking there too!

 

[mmf]

Well, I got the floor cut and riveted in, 50 rivets on this! Today I got up early and started the dreaded job of cleaning off the carpet glue on alot of pieces, next, I started on on one of the side pieces. I started on the most difficult one first that has the recessed controls mounted to it along with the wiring harness. I had to lengthen this piece as well so I cut it out of the new sheet aluminum I have then also used the original panel behind the new one to add a little more stiffness. Finally got everything hooked up and then riveted the panel in place after I made 2 additional anchor plates close to the front deck. I might end up putting one of the storage areas back in that goes in front of the console, can't make up my mind for now, but I am thinking. After I get the other side piece cut and installed I will start working on the bench seat I am making from 1" X 6" composite boards, then start on the rear floor installation. I will post the updated pix in a couple of days. It sure is HOT out there working on this too!

 

[Jonboat Jerry]

That front deck looks great, what are you cutting the DP with?
Thanks for the tip on the rivets BTW.

 

[mmf]

I have been cutting it with a fine tooth plywood blade oiled every cut, it cloggs the teeth and you have to pick it out after a cut, but it works. Thanks for the reply!

 

[hueydr]

Whats your plan foe the DP? As you said it gets real hot real fast! Are you painting?

 

[mmf]

OK, here's the pix from yesterday's progress, this morning I temp. set the console on so I could get a fix on the alignment of the support aluminum. Looks like I will be buying more rivets AGAIN! Never thought I would use that many................. I still need a 11 ft. steering cable, not the rack style but the coil type, the one on the boat was shot, maybe I can find one cheap on EBay if I get lucky............... I have also decided to put the rod tubes back in the boat, I will purchase new 2" PVC for this and some couplings. The floor and other interior aluminum will be etched and primed a light color when finished have not decided about the hull whether to paint or not, I was thinking about camoing the whole boat but it will get pretty hot with all of the darker greens and black colors in the pattern I like but I could do the lighter color camo.......................

 

[hueydr]

Thant's gonna be a fine looking machine when it's finished. I'm with you, i'd paint that DP a lighter color as well.

 

[mmf]

Thank you, hueydr, I'll be glad to finish but I never get in a giant hurry, that's when I goof up.
I am going to make an aluminum switch plate too that will cover over the existing one and the crappy, cheap switches that tracker used