New guy here..** UPDATED With lots of pics...

[JCR]

Got a little late and a little dark but got 95% of the carpet done..

 

[JCR]

Man your not messin around on getting it done!

Looken good 8)

Yeah...I want to go fishing... :lol: :lol: :lol: thanks for all the nice comments so far guys...

 

[Zum]

What a difference,looks great.

 

[russ010]

good job man!

your's is the 2nd 1432 I've seen decked all the way up.. a buddy of mine has his done the same way and he doesn't have any problems... except for weight issues. One thing I HIGHLY RECOMMEND is putting an oversized bilge pump in the back to pump the water out if you were to get caught in a rain storm. He told me he almost sunk his boat during a tournament when it started raining and barely made it to shore - and I'm pretty sure you're using the same heavy bracing he is.

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

boats lookin great :wink:

 

[JCR]

Took it out this afternoon and fished in it for 5 hours ....rode great ... weight was fine ..really couldn't till if it set that much lower in the water than she did before.. Its not a stand on the deck and dance around for sure... but it worked great ...Had some nice lake photos and a couple of crappie pics.. but for some reason the cameras acting goofy and won't upload... plan on going out maybe Friday ..so defiantly have some pics then...

 

[Sureshot]

How were you so successful with the paint removal , ive tried all different kinds, what did you do to make it work so well with the plastic wrap? Let me know thanks.

 

[Jim]

Carpet looks awesome man! =D>

 

[Waterwings]

Great job! 8)

 

[JCR]

How were you so successful with the paint removal , ive tried all different kinds, what did you do to make it work so well with the plastic wrap? Let me know thanks.

I used Air Craft stripper I believe it's made by Kleenstrip(I'll double check and post if I'm wrong) purchased from an Auto parts store in town.. There was a least 2 layers of paint ,one was red the other was green...Just from experience of stripping furniture(and can't remember where I picked up the technique at) the problem with stripper is that it will evaporate to quickly before it really does the work,, Just laying it on the surface most of the chemical vapor ...well... goes up ..so only a little of the top most surface will blister or wrinkle.. and the rest of the paint will just re-solidify once the working chemical evaporates ..so instead of cleaning it off cleanly it will just soften and harden back up again just redepositing in a different area causing you to reapply and reapply and wasting your time and stripper.. by encapsulating the area in saran wrap the vapors can't escape as fast and are forced back down in to the paint.So with the wrap on there it lets the chemical work longer to soften up the paint.. I usually slather on about 2' x 2' area and then cover with saran wrap and so on...I would then allow it to sit about 30-45 minutes(you can tell if its working down deep enough by pushing down on the saran wrap with a Gloved finger tip and basically swirl the paint around and to see if you can see bare aluminum) remove the wrap and scrub with a Very coarse Stainless Steel s.o.s type pad... You can get them at the dollar store 2 for $1 .. Scrubbing the area with the stripper that is left under the saran wrap on the boat. first.. then rinse with water hose set on mist or fine spray like you were wet sanding ..Don't blast it with the hose on jet spray or it will just re solidify instantly ...just gently scrub while rinsing with water.. and 95 to 99% of the old paint should come right off ..Now a lot of the time it will leave a hint of shallow color or haze of the bottom most paint that is mostly translucent ..you could just apply a little amount of stripper and scrub again to get rid of it completely (no need to wrap it) or depending on the paint that was on there ..A rag soaked in Lacquer thinner or Mineral spirits will also wipe away the tinted haze or third wet sand with 400 grit...One or all three may be needed ..just depends... and sometimes really tough stubborn dings or dents just need an old fashioned wire brush on a grinder to make 'em go away.. .. Well that's what works for me . But for god sakes wear heavy duty CHEMICAL gloves ($7.00 Menards, lowes ,HomeDepot,)...not latex dish washing gloves ..the stripper will burn right through them.. [-X

 

[JCR]

LOL since I went fishing Tuesday ..It has not stopped raining here in Iowa.. maybe it will start to taper off tomorrow ..I knew this would happen.. :evil: :evil: #-o #-o :roll: :roll:

 

[stinkynathan]

How were you so successful with the paint removal , ive tried all different kinds, what did you do to make it work so well with the plastic wrap? Let me know thanks.

I used Air Craft stripper I believe it's made by Kleenstrip(I'll double check and post if I'm wrong) purchased from an Auto parts store in town.. There was a least 2 layers of paint ,one was red the other was green...Just from experience of stripping furniture(and can't remember where I picked up the technique at) the problem with stripper is that it will evaporate to quickly before it really does the work,, Just laying it on the surface most of the chemical vapor ...well... goes up ..so only a little of the top most surface will blister or wrinkle.. and the rest of the paint will just re-solidify once the working chemical evaporates ..so instead of cleaning it off cleanly it will just soften and harden back up again just redepositing in a different area causing you to reapply and reapply and wasting your time and stripper.. by encapsulating the area in saran wrap the vapors can't escape as fast and are forced back down in to the paint.So with the wrap on there it lets the chemical work longer to soften up the paint.. I usually slather on about 2' x 2' area and then cover with saran wrap and so on...I would then allow it to sit about 30-45 minutes(you can tell if its working down deep enough by pushing down on the saran wrap with a Gloved finger tip and basically swirl the paint around and to see if you can see bare aluminum) remove the wrap and scrub with a Very coarse Stainless Steel s.o.s type pad... You can get them at the dollar store 2 for $1 .. Scrubbing the area with the stripper that is left under the saran wrap on the boat. first.. then rinse with water hose set on mist or fine spray like you were wet sanding ..Don't blast it with the hose on jet spray or it will just re solidify instantly ...just gently scrub while rinsing with water.. and 95 to 99% of the old paint should come right off ..Now a lot of the time it will leave a hint of shallow color or haze of the bottom most paint that is mostly translucent ..you could just apply a little amount of stripper and scrub again to get rid of it completely (no need to wrap it) or depending on the paint that was on there ..A rag soaked in Lacquer thinner or Mineral spirits will also wipe away the tinted haze or third wet sand with 400 grit...One or all three may be needed ..just depends... and sometimes really tough stubborn dings or dents just need an old fashioned wire brush on a grinder to make 'em go away.. .. Well that's what works for me . But for god sakes wear heavy duty CHEMICAL gloves ($7.00 Menards, lowes ,HomeDepot,)...not latex dish washing gloves ..the stripper will burn right through them.. [-X

I REALLY wish I would have known about this technique when I stripped my boat in February. Aircraft stripper is expensive and I think I used two jugs and still ended up with a lot of time on the grinder with a wire brush. Next time, I suppose.

 

[Sureshot]

Thanks for the tips, sorry on the late reply Ive been tied up in work, and plan to strip her this weekend.