Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!

[Shoedawg]

Day 2 (May 4th 2014)

Goal: Remove the rotted deck and clean.

Got started around 10 this morning to start tearing out the deck. It took me and the wife about 8hrs to remove the deck, console, carpet, and drivers seat compartment. The deck was all rotted out and the screws were all rusted, stripped and nasty. Had to remove the panels on the side as well.

First we started with the drivers compartment. The steering console is to be removed as well along with those panels on the side.


There was carpet in the compartment that was in under the drivers bench seat. I had to completely remove it all to get access to the screws that hold the compartment unit down to the deck.


After removal of the bench compartment, the left and right side panels were next.



Both panels along the side of the boat were dead space. There was no foam between them. I am thinking I could do three things here:

1. Use the dead space for storage
2. Put foam boards between the dead space (and use some it for storage)
3. Remove the panels completely (not what I want to do, but an option)

Any suggestions or ideas???


Next was removing the rotted decking. I used a Stanley Wonder Bar (flat/thin pry bar) that is 21" long, a hammer, cats-claw and a body saw to remove the deck. I used the saw to make a thin cut line on the deck and snapped the deck with my hands, pulling up on it. Some of the wood just disintegrated in my hands. That body saw made it a lot easier to remove the deck.




I now needed to remove the console. This was a PITA!!! I had to remove the steering column, rip up carpet, and remove wiring, while documenting and taking pictures of everything I removed. It took some time to do, but I would have forgotten how it went back in place. I place the parts in zip-lock bags, label them and take a picture from where they got removed and need to return. It will save me time in the long run.


Underneath the console. The electrical wiring looks to be in good shape and the gauges work, but I am on the fence about replacing all the wiring with new marine grade type wiring.


The fuse box is definitively going to get replace.


This is the arm for the steering unit.


Here is the console removed. Now I can get rid of the rest of the deck.


The front deck was next in line to go.


Front deck is coming out, slow and steady.


Here is the front after removal and before clean up.


A lot of dirt was on the bottom of the boat. I am thinking I removed 5 lbs of it.


All that crappy wood is out!! Time to ShopVac the rest of the crap out of it and give it a good pressure wash.


All cleaned out and washed. This was of the biggest hurdle (so far, knock on wood) to get over and to move on to the re-mod/restore.


It was a long day and hot, but worth the effort and time. Next is the back of the boat. Need to remove some old top decking and get in the back storage areas, live well and battery compartments to clean those up. One step at a time.


Shoe

 

[Kismet]

Wow, you put in a lot of work...or took out a lot of debris!

Hope the rest goes smoothly.

 

[thill]

Nice demo job and documentation.

Whatever is working well, leave, IF it will be easy to replace later. If something that will be difficult, then replace it now, while it's easy to do, especially if you think it will fail soon.

Keep the momentum going, and the project should go quickly. If you let it sit, and become distracted, it can be hard to get motivated again.

Keep up the good work!

-TH

 

[Shoedawg]

Day 3 (May 12, 2014)

A little late updating (Been busy with other stuff, like life). I also posted a Glue Removal Guide which can been seen here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34344


Here is what I got done so far.

Goal: Remove the crappy rhino liner paint job and carpet glue on all removed panels. Pre-wash/Post-Wash panels.

SO, after getting the deck tore up and the panels removed, it was time to strip the crappy paint and 14 year old clue off the panels.

Here are the long side panels with the crappy paint and some carpet glue on them. The stuff needs to GO!



I start with a pre-wash (using my pressure washer) to clean as much of the grime, paint and glue off the panels.



A pressure washer helps somewhat to knock loose the old carpet glue. My washer only does 1750psi @ 1.5GPMs. If I had a higher psi and a PW that could put out hot water, I think it would of knocked most, if not all, of that crap off.



Here is a panel where the paint needs to be stripped. Jascos Expoxy/Paint Remover is what I will be using to do the job.




Using Jascos Epoxy/Paint Remover makes quick work of removing the paint. (It also works great on glue! See my Glue Removal Guide. Link is posted above.) Here I am letting it "set up" before removing it with a putty knife.



It makes quick work and does a fine job stripping the paint.




Removing more paint.



I got the wife involved to help out. Its nice to have an extra hand to speed things up and a "good excuse" to spend some quality time together.




Here is the results of what the Jascos can do. Just need to finish the rest of it and the back side.



After some time stripping, here are two panels done. Just need to clean the far right panel up a bit. There was still a little bit of glue left on it.


Here is the Drivers Seat Compartment. I had to remove the piano hinge to get some old carpet out from underneath it.



Here is the backside/bottom of the Drivers Seat Compartment. Jascos did a great job of removing it all. It was a PIA though, to get in between the sides of the compartments inside to remove the old glue.



Another view.



More glue!!! :roll: :roll: :roll:




This panel is what holds the throttle controller.



Cleaning up the panels with Acetone.



Well after a Loooong day of work, we finally got all the panels done! =D> =D> =D>




Next up is the back of the boat. I have to tear up three small rotted out plywood decks, remove three lids (and remove the paint), remove the bow deck and strip the paint off that's left on the inside of the boat.

Be sometime around the first week of June before I get another post update. Got family coming into town and picking out a German Short-haired Pointer to be my 2nd mate!!

 

[Shoedawg]

It’s been awhile since I posted an update. I haven’t touched my boat in about 2 months due to being gone, having a new puppy to train and stay out of trouble and the 100+ degree days here in southwestern high desert Idaho!!

But I did get a sample of Hydroturf in the mail, and did some testing on it to see if I would use it on my tin. Below is what I did to see how this stuff may hold up.

HydroTurf Sample Test Review

I contacted Hydro-turf (https://hydroturf.com/) to request a sample of their product. It came in about 10 days. Deciding if I wanted to install Hydro-turf into my Jon, I ran some small tests on the sample, seeing how it may hold up. Here’s what I threw at it.

Here is the sample as is, untouched, not muddied. I put it on the floor and stepped on it with my heel and ball of my feet. It was quite comfortable. I did measure the thickness with my digital calipers and it measured out 5.30mm. They are sold in 6.0mm. They do sell underpads that are in ranges of 9mm, 18mm, and 26mm. If you got the matt (6.0mm) and the underpad (9mm) to make your feet more comfortable, you would have thickness of 14mm. That is a little over ½ and inch. (Note: Disregard the fishing hooks for now)

Next I threw some dirt on it.


Here I just brushed it off using my hand. It came clean pretty nicely. If you were to use a fox tail (another name for a dust pan brush) it would clean it off the dirt on the mat fairly easy I think. A shop vac would do just as good of a job as well.


After brushing of the dirt I ran some water over it, using the water sprayer in my kitchen sink to mimic the water hose I would use to hose down and clean the mat. As you can see, the water gets trap in the tunnels, but hardly absorbs into the matt.


With the mat wet, I smashed some dirt into it, pounding my hand into the mat and dirt to mimic the pressure of a foot, trampling it all down. I then washed it off again using my kitchen sink sprayer. It did a fine job of cleaning up the dirt. I again wetted it and really smashed some dirt into, but let it dry with the dirt on it. After drying, I brushed it off on one side to see how clean it would get, then rinsed again. Here is what the results were.


I next cleaned it and threw it outside while wet. I wanted to time it of how long it took to dry when wet. It was overcast skies and the temperature was about 88 degrees. It took about 12 minutes for the mat to be completely dry.

Now what about fish hooks getting caught in the mat? Here I taped up the sample to a board and used three different size hooks to test it out.

The first test was the big hook. I tied it to some fishing line and drug it across the mat. It didn’t hook.


Next I deliberately pushed the hook into the mat to see if I could pull it out. It came out just fine, unlike carpet. In fact the hook caught on the tape more, while not hooking the hydroturf.

I then decided to put the hook into the mat and pull on the line (as some of us have done a cast to find our hook stuck in the carpet). Giving it a good tug (like a cast) the mat did rip a little bit as seen here. I did play with the tear a little bit to see if it would tear more and easily, and surprisingly it did not.


Next pushed a treble hook in the turf. It was very easy to remove.


It did leave a very small hole/tear in the material, but you can barely even see it. The hole sits just below the hook. I added an arrow to help locate it.


Next I took the smaller treble and ran it deep into the turf. It did gouge it. But remember I did it initially to see how it would rip and hold up. It was a small gouge and would hold up.


So far I like this product. It seems to hold up well to hooks (I deliberately wanted to see how it would hold up to fish hook) but do not think it will catch as bad as my aggressive hooking test. It cleans VERY well, dries fast and seems like it would be comfortable on the feet, barefoot or not. I am going to get a underpad to increase comfort as well as reduce the noise level in my boat. Overall, for the small sample I had, I think HyrdoTurf is going into my boat.

Hope to be working on my boat again very soon. Still have the aft side to tear apart.

Shoe

 

[Kismet]

Shoedawg:

Some listings on water separators on Amazon. For smaller outboards, I just got a funnel with limited flow rate, but there are entire in line systems.

Best of luck.

https://www.google.com/search?q=amazon+outboard+motor+fuel+water+filter&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=sb


Have fun, be safe.

 

[Shoedawg]

Kismet » 03 Aug 2014, 18:15[/url]"]Shoedawg:

Some listings on water separators on Amazon. For smaller outboards, I just got a funnel with limited flow rate, but there are entire in line systems.

https://www.google.com/search?q=amazon+outboard+motor+fuel+water+filter&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=sb


Have fun, be safe.

Thanks for the Info!! :wink:

 

[Shoedawg]

Man its been a long time since I posted. Been busy with work, school and life. But I finally got the boat project started again. It laid untouched all fall and winter long, but I am determined to get this thing finished by Pheasant season this year [-o<

Here we go!!!!
Finally got the boat into the garage. I was building a workbench and some cabinets to make some room for the boat to fit. Now I can keep it there without having to haul it back to the RV/Boat lot. (I live on a Air Force base, and leaving a boat, RV, etc out on the street or your drive way is a big NO NO, and makes it a PIA to move it back and forth to the lot and the house to work on, hence the garage the set up).


First thing to go was the front deck. I am going to use Aluminum in the entire boat. The crappy plywood I had removed, has convinced me to do so.


After removal.


The back area was next. It consist of the live-well, two storage area's and the battery and fuel tank area.


I was surprised to find foam under the plywood and what held the plastic storage area. I am on the fence of either keeping the foam to use as support for the plastic bins as well as to support the decking I plan to put there. Any thoughts on this?


After removing the bin, I discovered water underneath. If I keep the foam, I need to come up with a way to seal the storage bins. I used a wet-vac to get the water out.


This is the inside of the fuel and battery compartment. I pulled the aluminum floor out and cleaned it up, but its so beat up and flimsy, I may just replace the darn thing. I did clean it up a little with a pressure washer, but it still looks bad and some pitting too, I think.


Next up was removing the crappy, thin aluminum bracing that ran across the floor with some foam in the way. I tested to see if the foam was allowing some drainage and it was not.


One side removed and the other side was next.


After cleaning up the floor and removing the foam, I flushed and washed as much dirt out of the boat as I could. It took me a few hours to get the back on the boat fairy flushed out. Years of dirt and crap had built up and collected over the years. Here she is all clean.


Next up is removing some old glue and paint around the boat. Stay tuned.

 

[fool4fish1226]

Nice looking project you got going there thanks for sharing

 

[Tallpine]

Nice work Shoedawg. That is going to be a cool boat when finished.

 

[Shoedawg]

Didn't get much done as I wanted to yesterday. Had to run into town to get Acetone and some Jasco for the boat. I did get a start removing some of the paint though. Plan today is to tackle the gunwale and the inside.

The gunwale with the crappy Rhino Liner. The guy who did this didn't do it properly.



Old paint and glue.


Just starting it up. Jasco's kicks arse for removing this crap easily.


More to follow.

 

[Shoedawg]

Got a lot done today Finished up the gunwales, the braces on the hull wall, the front of the live-well and the space just below the gunwale.

I applied a thin layer of Jasco's Paint and Epoxy Stripper first and let it sit for about 10 minuets, then scrapped it off with a putty knife. This stuff takes off layers very well, and I highly recommend it for anyone who wants a effective stripper. After I remove the paint, I give it a quick Acetone wash, then use a brass-cup to get the rest of the small, tough stuff.

Getting started with a brass-cup to clean up the rest of the Rhino paint. It makes fast work, but cramps my hands after some use.


Gunwales cleaned. Now to attack the back.


Here's what Jascos can do. This is just a very thin layer applied to the side. The stripper is thick, which helps it clings to vertical surfaces, making it easier to remove paint.


All stripped, now time to clean it up.


Here is some free advertising for 3M. To buff the rest of the paint off the side, I used 3M's Scotch-Brite Paint and Rust Stripper pad. These pads are AWESOME!!! They preform well, and so far I have only used one pad. They do leave little swirls, but you can control the amount of pressure on the pad to get what you want.


Here the results of the pad's handy work. It was a PIA :x to hold the drill and find a comfortable position to get the work done.


Next I concentrated on the sides between the gunwale and those brackets.


Here's what she looks like after today's work. I have about 90% of the paint removed. Still got some hatches to do and a bit of the back, but its coming along. Got to work a 48hr shift tomorrow, so I wont be able to get any more work done on it till Sunday. That makes me a Sad Panda!!

 

[CMOS]

Thank you for all the great detail in that post. I have been wanting to know specifically what people use to strip off old paint from a Tinner. Unfortunately I worked A LOT harder to get the old paint off my 63 Lone Star. Wish I would have known this before!

I'm compiling info like this for my next project, yet to be determined. I'll keep my eyes open for a super deal on a 16 or 18' fixer-upper.

Your boat is looking good! =D>

CMOS

 

[Shoedawg]

Thanks CMOS. Jascos has been the great and saves a ton of time. If you are interested in other ways to remove nasty glue and maybe paint, I wrote up a post about different chemicals I tested and used. Follow the link below:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34344

 

[Shoedawg]

Well I kinda hit a situation with the foam that is in the back of the boat. You can read my thread about it HERE

I needed to remove the motor to help me get to it, plus the motor needed to come off anyways. As I was feeling around the inside aft, I felt the transom. It seemed very wet and maybe rotted, so the motor NOW has to come off. The transom is covered up with a aluminum sheet like this:



So now I needed to build an OB Stand for the motor and find some great plans to build one. You can download the OB Stand plans here: Out Board Motor Stand Plans

The plans are pretty detailed, but you do need to pay attention :-k to the plans and have a miter saw and a table saw that can do miters. A jigsaw will work as well, but the cuts will be difficult to do.

Here is what the OB looks like on paper. I carefully labeled the boards per the parts chart on the plans. This really helps to see how everything goes together.


I needed about 24 feet of 2x4's, 4 feet of 2x6, some lag screws with washers and four heavy duty casters. I bought two locking casters and had two spare ones laying around.


Next was measuring and cutting the boards to length per the parts description. A miter saw is a perfect tool for this, making it easy.


Heres all the boards cut to proper length.


After cutting the boards I marked the boards with their measurement, gave it a part number per the plans, and labeled the degree of cut and what side it would be on. This saves time and confusion for later on.


Now on to the miter cuts. All the boards, with the exception of one board, are cut at a variety of angle's, using the crosscut method. Notice the blade at a 8* angle.


One board had to be ripped at a 8 degree angle. Using a table saw that can do this, along with a fence helps. This is part 2B on the plans in my picture, along the bottom of the stand.


Here is all my boards, properly cut, mitered and stacked with their matching counter parts.


Next I dry fitted my parts. See the angles that were cut? I drew a small circle around the corner area of the plans to ensure I was putting it together correctly. The plans do not really detail the long ripped angle (Part 2B), so you really have to study the plans.

 

[Shoedawg]

Con't:

Here is a better shot of those angles. The bottom left board is the ripped angle one, again part 2B.


After everything looked good, I grabbed some clamps (you can never have enough clamps) and pre-drilled all my holes.


This is the frame completed.


Next was adding the 2x6's. They butt up to the frame and will act as the support for the motor. The empty space to the left of the 2x6 is where the second 2x6 will go.


Like this.


Up next, and the hardest part, was centering the support boards.



Attaching the support board to the frame.


And here are the results! It took me about 3 hours to do all this. The total cost was about $40. The casters are going to make the motor easy to move around the shop.


And here is the motor on the stand. It is holding well and easy to move around. I will post what I did today tonight.

 

[CMOS]

You don't mess around, do you? =D>


CMOS

 

[JMichael]

I could be wrong but I believe you have your motor on the stand backwards. If you look at it from the side it should be tilted the same basic angle that a transom tilts. I only mention this as it looks like it might be possible to tip. Those hard casters like that will lock up if they hit a tiny rock on concrete.

Great job building that stand though and the boat is looking good.

 

[Shoedawg]

I could be wrong but I believe you have your motor on the stand backwards. If you look at it from the side it should be tilted the same basic angle that a transom tilts. I only mention this as it looks like it might be possible to tip. Those hard casters like that will lock up if they hit a tiny rock on concrete.

Great job building that stand though and the boat is looking good.

Yea it is backwards. When I was getting the motor on with a buddy of mine, we weren't paying attention to how the stand was set. So far its holding up, but I do plan on correcting it. Good call.

 

[Shoedawg]

As you saw above, the motor is off. Here she is before removal. Now that it is off, I am leaning towards repainting the cowling, and the rest of it.


Had to get the steering column, throttle control box, and a mess of wires through the hole on the left before I could remove the motor. The cables are still attached to the motor. Did not want to start removing stuff until I knew where it went and what it was.


With the cables out of the way, I was now able to remove the motor. Here is the aft. I am now thinking of repainting the whole dang thing since I have to motor off.


Here is my reasoning to repaint. Its pretty scuffed up on the bottom and the paint job was not done either well, properly or BOTH! Not a fan of it.


The starboard side.


The camo stencil is OK, but I think I can do better. If I am going to spend the time and effort on this tin, I might as well do it right the first time and get the paint job I want.


With the motor now gone, it was time to remove the foam. You can read about my foam issue HERE Thanks a bunch to onthewater102 for helping me out on this one.


If you have this type of closed-celled fill foam in your boat, a body saw and a couple different sized wonder bars (pry bars) do the trick. Just use the saw and cut through the foam, making cubes. After your cuts, pry them out. The bigger the cube cuts, the less of a mess you make.


Progression.


There was a bunch of dirt, leaves, and misc crap that was sitting on the bottom underneath the foam. It was NOT allowing for any kind of drainage. This is going to be corrected.