Question regarding my new switch

[jeffrey.bean]

I needed a switch for my nav lights, in the one position i want my bow lights and stern ( anchor) on and the other position just the stern ( anchor) light.

I placed and order through BPS, the switch is a sea dog line, contra on/off/on, spdt. Is this the switch I need and if so, how do I wire it up. It has 4 terminal connections on the back side.

I saved a scematic for a dtdp switch, but this one came in and confused me.

Thanks...

 

[PSG-1]

I think you need a DPDT switch for the nav/anchor light configuration.

 

[Bob Landry]

It can be done either way. If you use a SPDT, a diode is needed across the two output terminals so that voltage is blocked from one light in one position, but flows to both lights in the other position. If the SPDT has 4 terminals, it must be a lighted switch and that's what one of the terminals are. An "on-off-on" uses three terminals.

The DPDT works also. The diagram confused me until I realized that the two "sides" of the switch are separate from each other.

 

[jeffrey.bean]

Thanks for the replys, looks like I'll return it and get a DPDT.

Yes, it is a lighted switch.

 

[PSG-1]

It can be done either way. If you use a SPDT, a diode is needed across the two output terminals so that voltage is blocked from one light in one position, but flows to both lights in the other position. If the SPDT has 4 terminals, it must be a lighted switch and that's what one of the terminals are. An "on-off-on" uses three terminals.

The DPDT works also. The diagram confused me until I realized that the two "sides" of the switch are separate from each other.

I wasn't aware of the trick with the diode. I have a Cole-Hersee switch with the illuminated tip, that controls my nav lights, it's like all the other switches on my dash... but it's a SPDT, and I only have it wired to run in one position where it controls both lights. I'd sure like to have it wired correctly.

Is there a diagram of this configuration with the diode?

 

[Bob Landry]

It can be done either way. If you use a SPDT, a diode is needed across the two output terminals so that voltage is blocked from one light in one position, but flows to both lights in the other position. If the SPDT has 4 terminals, it must be a lighted switch and that's what one of the terminals are. An "on-off-on" uses three terminals.

The DPDT works also. The diagram confused me until I realized that the two "sides" of the switch are separate from each other.

I wasn't aware of the trick with the diode. I have a Cole-Hersee switch with the illuminated tip, that controls my nav lights, it's like all the other switches on my dash... but it's a SPDT, and I only have it wired to run in one position where it controls both lights. I'd sure like to have it wired correctly.

Is there a diagram of this configuration with the diode?

They are available all over the Internet, but I don't know how to post one here. It's simple. The bi-color connects to one side of the switch, the white light to the other output terminal. Then connect a diode across the outputs. You'll probably have to use the connectors that let you piggyback connections on a single terminal or else, solder. In one position the diode passes current to both lights, in the other position, it blocks current to the bi-color light only and you have an anchor light. If a switch position does not give you the light(s) you want, simply reverse the diode. The lights togehter probably don't draw more than an amp, so a one amp diode from Radio Shack should be fine. Hope this helps.

 

[PSG-1]

OK, thanks for the info, I'll check into that. I'm sure I can figure it out without the diagram, if I sit there and play with the multimeter and check a few things.

And being that my nav lights use LED's, they don't draw anywhere near 1 amp while turned on, so, a 1 amp diode should be fine.

 

[Bob Landry]

Hopefully here is a diagram for a DPDT switch wiring. It appears confusing, but remember that it is really two switches in one.

 

[PSG-1]

Also, here are a couple:

 

[PSG-1]

Hey, Bob, thanks for the advice about the diode.

I went to Radio shack this afternoon, and picked up a diode rated for 50V, 1A.






I had previously joined the stern light wire to the bow light wire, after giving up trying to get the darn thing right when I first wired it.

So, I cut the stern wire away from the bow wire, as close as possible, and wrapped with splice tape.

I then crimped on a new female spade connector to the stern wire light, and connected it to the unused terminal of my switch.

Broke out the multimeter, set it for continuity, and based on the diagram supplied on the pack for the diode, I was able to confirm which way the current flowed through the diode. (Now that I realize how this thing works, it's basically a check valve for electricity, only lets it flow one way)

So, I next used some test jumpers, connected to the output terminals of the switch. I placed the diode between the jumpers, and flipped the switch in both directions, and looked at my lights to see what happened. Had it backwards on the first try.

Flipped it around, and sure enough, both lights came on with the switch in one direction, and only the stern light came on with it flipped to the other position. Excellent!! 'Bout time I got it right.

So, after confirming the correct orientation of the diode to the switch, making the actual connection was simple, and required no solder. Since I'm using spade connectors to my terminals, it made it easy, too.

The diode has a length of solid wire coming off either end, about 2 inches long.



So, I simply bent each end at a 90 degree angle, and placed a piece of heat shrink tube over the diode and the majority of the straight portion of wire.




Then, I pulled each connector loose from either output terminal, and placed the diode wire in the corner of the female connector, and then re-installed them onto the terminals, and they fit very snug. After doing that, I gave the heat shrink a quick (and careful) shot of heat with the heat gun, to shrink it down onto the diode and insulate it somewhat. So, the diode basically is routed along the side of the switch, making contact with the 2 output terminals, with no splicing or soldering required.




And now my navigation and anchor lights work correctly!! Again, thanks for the info, I would have never figured this out.


These are the Cole-Hersee illuminated tip toggle switches. When they are off, they glow white


When they're on, they glow red


I have the pilot light circuit of the switches wired inline with the ignition circuit, so the white pilot lights only run if the engine is running
(I cranked the engine up for just a few seconds, to show them illuminated in these photos)

 

[Bob Landry]

LOL. I went to Radio Shack today also. I grabbed the 3A diode, just to have a little cushion. In the event of a bare wire shorting out, the 5A fuse will still protect everything. That's a good analogy for a diode, an electrical check valve.

 

[PSG-1]

I know a little about wiring, but not a whole lot about electronics or components. I had no idea there was such a thing as an electrical "check valve". Never knew it was possible to limit current flow to one direction. That's pretty neat.

Speaking of electronic components: The gray switch you see on my console is for the 'no wake mode' of my engine. From my understanding, it basically shorts out 2 wires across a resistor within the switch. These 2 wires are linked to the ECM/CDI. The switch is a momentary on switch. Holding it for about 3 seconds with the throttle at dead idle, the ECM will raise the RPM to 2400, and it holds it there smoothly, like a cruise control, until you press the switch again, or hit the throttle.

When I first installed the engine, I had almost all the wires hooked up, except for 2, which I couldn't figure out. My 'check engine' light on the tach was flashing a code, 6 times, then 8 times, then repeating, for a 'code 68' or 'faulty no wake switch' Once I figured this out, I ran 2 new wires to the console, connected them to the 2 unused wires from the ECM, and installed the switch. It no longer flashes a code. =D>

The check engine light does flash when in 'no wake' mode, but actually, all 3 lights on the tach are supposed to flash when in no wake mode, so, it still ain't quite right.

I reckon this has something to do with that single pin connector on the back of the tach that I couldn't figure out, and left it alone....LOL Maybe I'll get that figured out one day.

 

[RiverBottomOutdoors]

I love those dog tag switch labels.

 

[PSG-1]

I love those dog tag switch labels.

I made those from some 3" X 1/2" flat bronze stock, cutting thin slivers about 1/8" thick, using a bandsaw. After cutting the slivers, I polished them on the belt grinder using a 220 grit belt. (Yeah, it's a PITA trying to hold one of those pieces on a belt that's running 60 MPH, without launching the SOB across the shop! LOL)

After polishing on the 220 belt, I used a letter stamp set to stamp the lettering, then used the drill press and drilled 1/8" holes for rivets to mount them to the console.

They can be a PITA to keep clean, along with the bronze control levers, but I typically use Happich Simichrome polish, and it does a good job.

The control levers are also made from flat bronze stock.



For the ends of the handles, I used some round bronze stock, turned to diameter to match the radiused ends of the handles, drilled and countersunk on one half piece, and drilled and tapped for screw threads on the other half.


The ends of the handles have a hole drilled through them, where the screw that holds the 2 halves together passes through. Makes the whole thing fit together smoothly. The purpose of the round stock is to add to the width of the handles, so they are more comfortable on the hands, especially in cold weather.