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Tig has always been stronger and always will be stronger. Mig is excellent to get stuff done. It always cold starts no matter what you do, it is the nature of the beast. If it were a roll cage or something I would tig for certain.
 
I have a Hobart 210 with a spool gun and have welded 083 aluminum with out burn through. Just remember when you pull the trigger get moving with mig. Favorite aluminum is with the new Miller pulse welders. You can go from flat welding to vertical in the same weld and it will fill the puddle for you.
 
Bugpac said:
Tig has always been stronger and always will be stronger. Mig is excellent to get stuff done. It always cold starts no matter what you do, it is the nature of the beast. If it were a roll cage or something I would tig for certain.

Wrong.

Some of the new MIG machines have a hot start feature, which eliminates the cold start issue.

Take a look at the Millermatic 350P. Some of the misconceptions about aluminum MIG welding might be cleared up.
 
They attempt to. you cannot hot start while feeding filler. Think about it. Xray any weld and you will see a cold start at the beginning. The only way possible to hot start is to have a puddle prior to filler being added, As you would get with a tig.
 
The second half of that equation is the run in adjustment. Not only does the machine give the initial seconds of the weld a higher amperage than the set amperage (hot start), the machine slows the wire feed down a good bit, so it doesn't try to build a lump while the weld is still cold/in the process of heating up.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to say MIG is better than TIG. I've spent a heck of a lot more time under the hood with a TIG torch in my hand, than I have with MIG, as much of the work I do caters more to TIG than MIG. But, there are times where MIG is just flat out better. Doing certain long seams (especially butt joints or the likes, where there is no inherent rigidity in the shape, as an outside corner might have), the increased overall heat input will warp the snot out of what you are working on. Or, even in simple things like a 90 degree fillet in .100 or .125, pulsed MIG will produce a weld of very similar quality (appearance as well as function) as TIG, in a fraction of the time, which in my book, will qualify it as better for that application.

And yes, TIG is infinitely more versatile. With no more than pressing a few buttons, I can go from welding aluminum, to steel, to stainless steel, chromoly, and so on. MIG certainly can't do that. But, for production work, or just a larger quantity of new fabrication on material over .125 -.187 or so, I wouldn't want to be without a decent MIG, no doubt about it.
 
I would recommend a push pull if you are gonna drop the coin for a spool set up. You can usually find a decent deal on e bay. Just my opinion.
 
If you already have a mig then the spool gun is a good choice. Push pull will require a controller that runs off of a power source.
 
I'm having a really hard time with the gun, I'm thinking that I'm not cleaning well enough, should I brush It real good and then torch it? I know guys use acetone to wipe the aluminum down, what works for you guys?
 
Post some pictures of your disaster and a better description of your problems...

I use a 80 grit flap wheel to remove corrosion, a stainless wire brush to clean the metal before welding.

What guage metal are you welding?

What size wire?

What condition is the metal (corroded, or oil soaked)

Are you pushing or pulling the bead?

Are you burning through or spalling on the surface?

What position are you working in?

Is the wire feeding smoothly?

How far away from the work are you keeping the gun?

As said before, aluminum is just like steel only a lot less forgiving. If you are welding cracks, clean, clean, clean. Start at the widest part, butt a peice of scrap against the egde if you need to get the bead started then pull the bead. It's tricky but pretty easy once you get the hang of what works and what doesn't.
 
.035 wire
Feeding smooth
I flap wheeled it
Didnt wire brush
Very old flatbottom boat
Less that .100 thick
Old lead based paint
boats turned over, easy to get too
pulling the gun
tried holding the gun closer or farther away
heat as low as possible
If it were steel i was say the heat was blazing hot, pushing the wire through the aluminum
#-o
 
Lot of good information on this post.

I have been a certified pipe welder for over 20 years. I am have experience in mig, tig, stick and flux core. I'd like to give my opinion on this subject.

On my project I mostly used a Miller Spoolamatic gun with .035 4043 wire and argon shield gas. You can use 5356, but in my opinion I get better results with the 4043.

I use a millermatic 250 power source, which is more than enough power for the average home user.

Here's my take on using mig or tig on your jon boat, when I say I mostly used mig on the project is because the mig welds over contaminated aluminum better than tig will, what I mean is it easier to weld over oxidized old aluminum. That's not to say that you can not weld the old stuff with the tig all I am saying is that it is more friendly with the mig. With tig you have to get the weld area really clean, I use a stainless steel wire wheel on a small grinder to buff the weld zone as good as I can but even then the contaminated aluminum is porous and you never really get it totally clean. With the mig I've found that it will run over the old stuff alot easier, Make any sense? On the new aluminum material such as the pontoons I welded it with the tig, simply because it makes a prettier weld and it is not contaminated. Also be sure not to use the stainless wire wheel on anything else other than the aluminum because if you use it on say carbon steel you've just contaminated the wheel. Like someone stated in earlier posts stay away from the cheap import welders out there, they will do nothing except cost you money and deliver less than desirable results. I know quality welders are costly, but in this case you definately get what you pay for. Sometimes it is cheaper to hire a local welder than to go out and buy all the necessary equipment.

Hope this helps shed some light on this subject.
 
With old lead paint around it I would propane torch it with a fan blowing away from you, then spot or stitch weld it, just long enough to melt the metal (half a mississippi). If you are using an auto darkening hood, waiting for the hood to lighten between each spot seems to keep the metal from getting too hot. You do the crack 1/8" at a time to build up some metal and then go back over it with one continuous bead to get good penetration through the porous spot welds.

Make sense?

Jamie
 
Try pushing it, instead of dragging it. There are times you have no choice but aluminum MIG usually responds better to pushing than dragging.
 
We do aluminum welding repairs. We have alot of boats used in saltwater. Our welder said for those boats it is best to use the tig welder. You get better penetration and a stronger weld. He said that mig welders will not do as good of a job as a tig. Now mind you this is on DIRTY aluminum. For those that have a new boat you could probably use a mig. This is just one man's opinion. I am not saying he is right. But I will say that we have had several boats go to someone else in the area and get mig welded. Then they take it out and it would break again and they would bring it to us. We would Tig it and they would never have a problem again.
 
This is slightly off topic but I figured I would get the best response from this crowd. I am working on my lowe 1648MT, and would like to have a welder just to tack things in place until I can take it to the weld shop, and to eventually undertake small projects on my own. I know you get what you pay for, but has anyone heard anything about this welder:

https://www.amazon.com/Clarke-WE644...ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1309668638&sr=1-3

The price has me seriously considering it.
 
Correct me if I'm reading this wrong, but I believe the welder does 130 amps, but the duty cycle is measured at 60 amps. I realize that is a very low duty cycle, but I can be patient.
 
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