Transom Height / Motor Fit question...

[AlexB]

The mini-jacker looks like one single cast piece of metal, a simple bracket with no moving parts. If true I don't believe the earlier blogger saying you could adjust and "dial in" the exact height would be accurate using the mini-jacker. There are more expensive jack plates which do allow about 4 inches of height adjustment BUT they'll run you a lot more money and the one I bought weighs about 50 lbs. which is not a great idea on the tail of a short boat - you could be very transom-low / bow-high at rest. There are Pro's and Con's. Maybe you can position the stationary mini jacker at just the right height to lower the cav plate but still allow the motor to rotate freely over the transom? You can always send it back if it doesn't line up lol. Good Luck!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I already modified my transom, and I'm happy with the results (see pic above). The prop doesn't ventilate anymore, and the boat performs just as it should.

I didn't like the idea of permanently installing a fixed jack plate without KNOWING it would fix my problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[onthewatersx3]

Sorry for my Beginner's Mistake, I posted before getting to the end of the thread to see you'd already solved it. Glad it worked out for you!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[AlexB]

All good! I do the same thing sometimes...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skipper123]

WOW you did a great job cutting that transom looks like a factory job to me. I have rigged out a lot of boats over the years and have found a hydrofoil sized for the outboard always helps getting on plane stays on plane at lower speeds and helps with prop blow out on sharp turns. As a rule you can trim motor up one pin hole just by adding one which some times picks up the speed a little it all depends on the hull design. I have never experienced any negative effects of running a hydrofoil if its sized properly for the outboard as some have said. I drill them holes in a skinny min on my new outboards and enjoy the benefits. I usually run a new outboard for a while so I know exactly how it performs without it and then install so I can see the difference. I am doing some research now as to which one I'm installing on the new 30HP Tohatsu. I want to get the RPM gauge installed first so I can see the difference with and without.

 

[Stumpalump]

WOW you did a great job cutting that transom looks like a factory job to me. I have rigged out a lot of boats over the years and have found a hydrofoil sized for the outboard always helps getting on plane stays on plane at lower speeds and helps with prop blow out on sharp turns. As a rule you can trim motor up one pin hole just by adding one which some times picks up the speed a little it all depends on the hull design. I have never experienced any negative effects of running a hydrofoil if its sized properly for the outboard as some have said. I drill them holes in a skinny min on my new outboards and enjoy the benefits. I usually run a new outboard for a while so I know exactly how it performs without it and then install so I can see the difference. I am doing some research now as to which one I'm installing on the new 30HP Tohatsu. I want to get the RPM gauge installed first so I can see the difference with and without.

The flat aluminum ones are the thinnest and fastest. Permatrim makes a really nice one and so does Bob's Machine shop called a True Tracker. The thick plastic ones add too much drag and are often so big they handle weird in turns. The very best is built exactly like the factory cavitation plate. It's a flat aluminum plate that you cut to size. Here is one I made in this thread that worked really nice. Nice easy DIY project that works better than the plastic fins. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39681&start=30

 

[AlexB]

WOW you did a great job cutting that transom looks like a factory job to me. I have rigged out a lot of boats over the years and have found a hydrofoil sized for the outboard always helps getting on plane stays on plane at lower speeds and helps with prop blow out on sharp turns. As a rule you can trim motor up one pin hole just by adding one which some times picks up the speed a little it all depends on the hull design. I have never experienced any negative effects of running a hydrofoil if its sized properly for the outboard as some have said. I drill them holes in a skinny min on my new outboards and enjoy the benefits. I usually run a new outboard for a while so I know exactly how it performs without it and then install so I can see the difference. I am doing some research now as to which one I'm installing on the new 30HP Tohatsu. I want to get the RPM gauge installed first so I can see the difference with and without.

Thanks! I'm definitely happy with the way it came out.

I really have no complaints with the way the boat handles at this point, so I probably won't spent the $ to add a hydrofoil. If the day comes when I have some free time and a hankering to tinker with my boat, I might make a DIY hydrofoil using some 1/8" aluminum sheet I have stashed in the garage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk