Transom saver if my 1436 hangs well past trailer frame?

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SteveF

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So I'm about to pull the trigger on a 9.9 for the 1436 Tracker. Although 'only' 90+ pounds I'm concerned about the .050" transom and want to install a transom saver. However the transom is probably 2' past the back of the trailer (and I can't adjust much at this point). I could bolt on some extension but I'm afraid it might open that hull like a tin can on some dicey ramp. Anyone able to beat this challenge into submission :roll: ? Maybe I don't need the saver?
Thanks for your help!

Steve
 
Is your boat 2' past the bunks? I'm going to assume that you mean the trailer frame is 2' in from your boat, however the bunks extend to or slightly past your transom. My setup is similar, I ran some aluminum ablge between the bunks and attached the transom saver to that.

Another note, if your tranasom hangs 2' past the bunks, fix that first.
 
Thanks! Yes, I meant past frame. Less to bunks for sure so I'll take a look later and see how that will work out.
 
I had to adjust my sprap winch 14" forward to get my Jon's transom on the bunks. Then moved the jack behind the winch. Tailgate clears the winch support by 2", and unless I backup and jack knife the trailer badly, nothing will hit the truck or bumper. It's a little heavy on the tongue but when I hang a motor on it, the weight might be just right.
 
Thanks Gary. Argghh. I took a peek and I'll have to do the same thing. I hate to because not only then can't turn sharp but will have to dunk truck rear wheels. It's a brand new and nice Load Rite or I'd use it as an excuse to get a longer trailer. Nothing ever that easy I guess!

S
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338741#p338741 said:
SteveF » 15 Jan 2014, 14:45[/url]"]Thanks Gary. Argghh. I took a peek and I'll have to do the same thing. I hate to because not only then can't turn sharp but will have to dunk truck rear wheels. It's a brand new and nice Load Rite or I'd use it as an excuse to get a longer trailer. Nothing ever that easy I guess!

S
Tracker 1436. I have the same boat. I bought a Magic Tilt mt14 trailer and it also looks too short. I lowered the bunks(they are flat rather than vertical) as low as possible, and pulled everything forward until I saw 1" of bunk beyond the transom. The jack may come off as I can easily pick it up, and move it around the yard. Not heavy at all. I made the tightest forward turn I could and still had plenty of clearance between the bow and the back of the truck, tailgate up of course. But backing up would be very different. As far as getting your truck tires in the water, you must use a very shallow ramp. If you can get the bow on the bunks you can easily crank it on. Very light, although I would worry about creasing the hull with the ends of the bunks untill the hull sits flat.
 
So far there are many good suggestions. Aluminum boats need good support from the trailer especially under the transom. It gets worse when the boat is trailed with the engine tilted up. The engine weight is up higher and has better leverage to damage the transom. Some small boat manufacturers have warning stickers attached that recommend that the engine be transported in the vehicle while towing the boat. Nothing will ruin the performance of a small boat more than big dents in the bottom from improper trailing. You will wish you bought a bigger trailer if you ruin the hull.
Too heavy a set of springs is another big problem for small boats. Example: 200lb boat+100lb motor on a 1200lb trailer. The overly heavy spring rates don't allow road shock to be absorbed. The springs don't 'give' and the boat gets slammed. The motor gets shaken up and all the gear jumps around. Finding a trailer that is long enough and 'soft' enough will really ad to you rigs usefulness and long life.
Another caution; I looked at a boat one time and the owner had the winch rope pulling down-angle on the bow so hard that the hull was collapsed around the front keel roller. Winches should pull nearly parallel to the trailer, in my opinion. A nice boat ruined...
If your trailer is of recent vintage, you might try buying a longer tongue from the manufacturer. Get the longest one and tailor it to your rig. I found the link to the Load Rite PDF parts catalog with a couple clicks on google.
Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks! Great info! I think the spring rate on the Load Rite is okay and it's essentially brand new so I'll look at pulling everything forward and getting another tongue. I have a cross bunk under the bow and the winch level at the handle but I know what you mean. That .050" Tracker tin foil is not very forgiving!

Take care,
 
Arghhh... Just spoke to my go to trailer supplier and he said Load Rite won't sell a longer tongue because they 'don't recommend it'...possibility of collapse, etc. Only option from him at least is a 12' stock piece and then I have to cut and drill everything. Guess I'll try to shove everything forward but launch will be a pain.
It's a 14F1000W by the way.
 
Did you see the online parts catalog? Usually a call to the factory customer service line nets real helpful results. The other way to go is to order a tongue from Karavan. 2 X 3 tongues are mostly the same; you may have to drill a couple of holes. Karavan sells parts online too. Any 1000lb trailer should be able to accommodate a 14ft boat with stock parts. Maybe yours was shortened by a previous owner. The stock tongue might fix you right up. Keep making calls. I found this:

Contact our Customer Service Department at:
1-800-LOADRTE (1-800-562-3783)
E-mail: [email protected]



Please contact our customer service dept if you need further assistance!

920-928-6200 Option 3 (Karavan Trailers)



I found right on the website: 2X3 galvanized tongue tube 98in long Part number:100-03692-GL


Another option is to find a junk trailer behind a dealer somewhere, lots of them around my area. I don't know if this helps you though. If you were nearby I would sell you one. Got one sitting in the back yard.

You'll get it set-up.
 
Thanks again! Load-Rite won't talk to me (retail customers can only talk to dealers; like their quality not their service!) but I found a 90" aftermarket pre-drilled. I need to get out in the ice and snow and measure the current one to make sure it isn't already 90"! Thought about a hitch extender as well but see they are really for bike racks, etc....not for towing.
 
Check out my thread "Redneck Transom Saver" and for a few bucks, it would be right up your alley.
Make it any length you want . . . I use mine on a 105# Nissan 15HP.
 

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