Tracker Transom replacement PROBLEM

View attachment 2I have everything out/off that but need some help removing the wood. Tried lifting it out with a jack-all and brace along bolts I drilled into it. Will not budge, it actually lifts the boat off the trailer. I want to keep it in one piece if I can to use it as a template for the new one.
-All fasteners are out
-I can see daylight everywhere except the sides
Any suggestions?

It's off. Added some heat to inside and outside of both sides and she finally budged.

Now for the replacement plywood. I need 1 and 7/8". Here's what I think my options are:
A) Triple layer of 5/8" plywood, several coats of Valspar marine urethane
B) Double layer of 3/4" plywood, multiple coats of epoxy to build up an additional 3/8"
C) Other suggestions?

I would bet 1/4" luan sandwiched inside two 3/4" panels would do it well! Luan soaks stuff up well, so I'd use epoxy for this job. Call Larry or Mike at Raka Epoxy and they'll help you out and advise for how much product to use. www.raka.com

See if this post here gives you some tips or ideas: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47405

Glad you go it out.

Lowe’s may have white or red oak plywood that’s a true 3/4 thick. They also have plywood that’s a true 1/4 and 3/8. It has minimal voids as well.

I suggest two pieces of 3/4 with a piece of 1/4 at 15 degrees off in the center.

You can epoxy easily and use stainless epoxy coated screws to holt it together.

Progress update and new problem:
-all holes drilled out larger and filled with West Systems epoxy (no Raka here in Canada).
-3 coats all around 2 sheets of 3/4" plwood with glass matt sandwiched between.
-new 1/8" aluminum inside skin to replace the very thin and virtually destroyed original to bring the total thickness to 1 and 5/8".
-there's still a gap of at least 1/8" and could be 1/4". It's very difficult to confirm given the bowed outside skin.

I really thought my original measurement was too high as the plywood was soaked and expanded so I looked for the thinnest part I could find and used that, which was 1 and 5/8". Other parts of it are up to 1 and 7/8".
I also wasn't able to find the true factory width of the plywood anywhere online.

However, I need a solution. Here's what I think are my options:
-use the cut-off piece of aluminum and expoxy them together, adding additional pieces to match the sides.
-add a 1/4" piece of plywood, epoxied and screwed together.
-don't add anything, pull together with the mounting hardware.

Where is the gap?

As long as the treated wood is firm up against the transom, you're good to go!

If anything, for where those 'side tabs' the 'knee' affix to the transom, if any gaps you could even just add simple tin shims at the bolt hole locations, between the wood and tab/knee, then tighten everything up.

The gap is at the bottom brace that holds up the transom board.
It's clear now to me that the correct width should be 1 and 3/4".'
I can get the extra 1/8" by doubling up the inside skin but I don't have quite enough to cover the upper sides. I think I can do what Dale suggests and use what I have to cover the bolt hole locations.
With the plyability of the outside skin, I have no doubt I can get it tight.
Just looking for confirmation that she'll be strong enough for a new 4 stroke. The old '95 Mercury 115 has been put to rest.
I have to believe that the new wood with the epoxy and mat glass is much stronger than the original, even if's 1/4" thinner?

Looking awesome!


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jwiel said:

I have to believe that the new wood with the epoxy and mat glass is much stronger than the original, even if's 1/4" thinner?

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Oh heck yes!

FWIW, I have a sheet of 5052 alloy (what most tin hulls are made of), at 0.090" thick, if you needed small rectangular pieces to build up the thickness at the bolt hole locations, let me know by PM.

Wow, that is a big water boat. Targa?

My preference would be to make the transom thicker, rather than shim, but either would be fine without a big difference in strength.

Yep, it's a Targa 17. I got another 1/8" piece of aluminum to make a full piece (3 sections) for the inside skin and will use full one-piece in the picture to go on the inside of the outside skin. The outside skin has some pitting so I like this solution.
Is it necessary for me to epoxy the aluminum together? I'm thinking it would be best if I do. I'm planning do bond them with G-Flex.

jwiel said:

Is it necessary for me to epoxy the aluminum together? I'm thinking it would be best if I do. I'm planning do bond them with G-Flex.

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Yes, and I'd probably zinc chromate etch/prime them first to boot. Now if you look at this picture Johnny had once posted, it appears that an epoxy, like Steel Flex or G-Flex, should give full protection, but that picture was for plastic transducers affixed only to the outside of the hull. If you get moisture trapped between the two panels, even by sheer condensation, then I'd be more concerned with corrosion potential.

If concerned about 'strength' of the new transom, a piece of L-channel or U-channel bolted across the width would surely prevent flexing from the thrust of the OB moving forward. Many ways to accomplish what you need to do ..

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