57 evinrude 7.5. should i get it?

https://southcoast.craigslist.org/boa/4498162090.html

i really need to upgrade from a trolling motor on my 12ft jon, i know very little about outboards and have never owned one but im going to look at this thursday. is it worth $250? what should i look for when i see it? any advice would be great

ANY advice would be great thanks

Since you get the motor and tank it might be ok. Depends on where you're at and availability of motors in that area.

tank and hose -- $50-$75+
Coils -- $40-$50
Impeller -- $10+

running motor $115-$150

Seems like a decent deal to me. If it runs good and the tank holds pressure it is not an outrageous price.

Very nice motor, parts are available, and it should be very easy to work on.

Around here, the motor, running, would bring $350 if it's clean.

Keep weight distribution in mind on your 12ftr.

That engine is in the years of "run forever" jonnyrudes.

Best wishes.

josh870,

I've been a "Fan" of these OMC motors from 1955-70, in sizes from 7.5 to 40HP, since 1962.
(When my dad gave me a 16 ft LONE STAR boat & a 57 Evinrude 35HP for a "good report card".)

ImVho, IF the 7.5 Evinrude Model 7523 runs ON A BOAT & IN A LAKE or RIVER, as well as the owner says that it does, it is a GOOD DEAL.
(Usually, I pay from 20-150.oo for a BigTwin Evinrude, Gale, Johnson or Sea King of ANY HP, provided that it is complete with tank/controls AND then expect to replace about 100.oo worth of "routine maintenance" parts into every OB.)

That 7.5 should (again IF it is as the owner claims it to be!) last you for DECADES with nothing more than fuel and lubricants/points/plugs/condensers/water-pump impeller every few years.
(My 2nd cousin is a "commercial trotliner" and he is still running the pair of BigTwins that he bought in 1965. = VERY FEW "sport fisherman" would run an OB as much in a year, as he does each month. ====> The "magneto-fired" OMC OBs are so tough/simple/"over-engineered" that I've NOT seen one "worn-out in service" in more than a HALF CENTURY.)

Note: I change out the water-pump impeller EVERY winter, as they are CHEAP & "take a set" easily. = A new impeller is "cheap insurance" for trouble-free fishing/boating.

BEST WISHES, satx

thanks for the advice!
about weight distribution, i weigh 140, i plan to have the tank and a 40lb battery behind me, and my buddy in front weighs 240, would that be ok? and what should i expect for speed? it goes 3mph with my 55lb trolling motor

is there anything specific i should look for when i see it run? keep in mind ive never had an outboard or a two stroke motor at all for that matter

I am pretty much in your situation.

Never owned one, but now have one. I have a 1955 Fleetwin Aquasonic 7.5, and looks like the same type of tank as well.

I took my motor to the local marine mechanic, and he stated it ran better than most he sees of that era and model.

I rebuilt the tank and restored it and it works great... a little time and research got the job done.

I had him explain to me proper operating procedures, and had him dial in the high and low speed fuel adjustment dials.

What i found was most important was the idle speed... if you can get a really solid low idle, it shows good stability of the motor.

I also found that it should start in just a few pulls, not having to crank on it 20 times before it starts.

He mentioned that the Coils looked good, and the carb was in good shape.

Just my 2 cents.

Havent tested it on my boat yet, but have a testing tank in my garage and found that I like the way it just kind of hums.

No sputtering or anything like that.

[url=https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=355431#p355431 said:

josh870 » Today, 07:40[/url]"]thanks for the advice!
about weight distribution, i weigh 140, i plan to have the tank and a 40lb battery behind me, and my buddy in front weighs 240, would that be ok? and what should i expect for speed? it goes 3mph with my 55lb trolling motor

is there anything specific i should look for when i see it run? keep in mind ive never had an outboard or a two stroke motor at all for that matter

Click to expand...

josh870,

ALL that I can tell you, W/O being present, is that MANY older OB (and some nearly new ones, TOO) will run OK in a barrel but will NOT run decently on a boat under REAL conditions, so for 250.oo I would want to run it for 10-30 minutes ON a suitable boat, LISTENING for "odd sounds" & OBSERVING whether or NOT that it "runs out" well.

Fyi, there are LOTS of "FREE to 100.oo OB motors" out there that can be UP & RUNNING FINE for 100-150.oo worth of parts & some few hours of your "free labor", so don't "rush to judgment" on buying this 7.5HP or any other used outboard.
(As an example: less than 10 days ago, I bought a "perfectly suitable", electric-starting, 25HP BigTwin for 40.oo cash that has GOOD COMPRESSION & is even in "decent cosmetic condition". - It will power my "new to me" 1961 LONE STAR SKIPPER 16 foot "open fisherman", after a coat of new paint, decals & installing "the usual suspects".)

BEST WISHES.
just my opinions, satx

i found another one https://providence.craigslist.org/boa/4501090453.html this guys alot closer and i sold this guy my canoe really cheap earlier this year so he might give me a better price, only thing i see is the gas tank doesnt look as nice and looks like he made his own hose. this guys pretty much down the street it would be much easier to test it on my boat.

i would love to toss this on there but my boats rated for an 8 https://providence.craigslist.org/boa/4456691475.html

josh870,

Truthfully, I like the little Johnny 10 (perhaps a 1955 model??) better than the 7.5. = I believe that you will find that the 10 uses little more fuel than the 7.5, the parts are about the same price, the weight of the two OB is similar AND the 10HP will move even a deep/wide 14ft VEE-bottom right along.

yours, satx

I'd go for the 10 hp myself. I don't know what your boat calls for as max hp but I'd put a 10 on it and see how it did if it were mine. LoL

Well the guy with the Johnsons wants another hundred for a tank and it looks like crap so not getting either of those. The evinrude guy can't meet me til next week now
I would love to put a 10 but my boats rated for an 8 even though it has the nicest transom I've ever seen on a jon and according to the formula in the outboard capacity sticky in can handle a 10 but besides being more expensive I could save for one, I only have a utility trailer for my boat and can't launch with it so whatever I get I'll have to carry out every time, so it can't weigh a ton. How much do the old 7.5s weigh?

The '55 10 hp weighs around 68 pounds.
The '57 7.5 hp weighs around 59 pounds.

josh870,

The 7.5 Johnson/Evinrude weighs almost exactly 60 pounds.

yours, satx

really? great i was expecting 80

josh870,

YEP. Between 59-60 pounds.

Btw, my 18HP electric start 1958 Johnson only weighs 83 pounds.

yours, satx

Hiya....

Lots of good advice here. The 50's JohnnyRudes are fine motors; I wish more of them were available in my neck of the woods.

But; remember....it's ALL about condition.....the maintenance they've had.....what abuse they've endured.

There are a couple of things you can check. Engine compression. Should be within 10% from cylinder to cylinder.
Lower unit oil: Should be oil in there 90 weight. No water and no "milk-shake" mix of oil and water.

Then....try to find out what oil mix it's been run with. A lot of people mistakenly run the oldies on 50:1....and the bushings inside (as opposed to roller bearings and ball bearings on newer motors) really take a hit by doing that.

Then....take it for a test run. Check the idle. A **very** good indicator as mentioned above. Check for good coolant flow. Check for over-all good performance. Check the shifting from forward to reverse.

If it all checks out.....you're set.

To ALL,

24 to 1 gas to 2-cycle oil mixture is correct for all pre-1970 outboards (except the 4-cycle Homelite, Fisher-Pierce and Bearcat 55 & 85 outboards AND/OR "the handful of" DIESEL outboards, of course).

yours, satx

I thought the older (typically smaller hp) motors ran on 16:1 due to the plain bronze bearings (bushings).
Or is it ok to go 24:1 with the new oil?

SumDumGuy,

ALL of the OB that have been made in the relatively modern period (say WWII onwards) will run FINE on 24 to 1 mix with QUALITY 2-cycle oil.
(That said, I have friend in MD that routinely runs his WORLD WAR ONE era ELTO at shows on 24-1, without problems. = QUALITY/MODERN oils are just better than the ones of even a decade ago.)

yours, satx