New 2017 Suzuki DF25ATHL2

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Mainia

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So I had the below post on a different thread that was a Yamaha thread, it really needs it's own thread as not to have too many Suzuki posting on his Yamaha posting.

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I see the Suzuki 25 is being thrown around in this post a bit, so I thought I may add to it seeing I have a 2017 and have 6 hours on it so far. I did not want the new 2017 Yamaha 25 because it was a 2 cylinder. More cylinders is the only way to go. I got out of fishing and sold my YarCraft with a Yamaha V-Max when my daughter was born and our home based printing biz was very busy and my side hobby Audi repair shop was busy too. The boat just sat, Now that my daughter is 18 and both business's are sold or closed, I wanted to get back into fishing again. I was able to buy a 94 Lund 14.2 ft Rebel without a motor (luckily) because one way or another there was going to be a new 2017 Suzuki 25hp t&t - e/start on the back of any boat I bought sooner then later. I wanted a late model Alumacraft V16 but I could not find any for the price I wanted to spend. Plus I had zero boat stuff from years ago. The Lund I bought had everything (2 Lowrance GPS and bow mount, new wood/vinyl floor, good trailer ect...) and I worked a deal out for the seller to keep his 1st gen 25hp Yamaha 4stroke.

With my early years of building street/race motors, I break all my motors in hard, and really modern engines only need 1 to 3 hours of break-in at best. So, the first hour I was easy on the Suzuki and all was well. The later half of the hour I did full throttle starts up to 4,000 rpm to load the rings. That worked fine but after a couple of those the motor would "bog" until I let it idle 8 seconds. I then could get it on plane for a "barge length" and it would bog down again. This would happen for EXACTLY 2 hours. At the 2 hour mark, the ECU freed me of it's "governance". I told that to a local Suzuki salesman ( I bought my motor on Online Outboards dot com) he never heard anyone having an issue, but said they have only sold 3) 25 hp that year compared to truckloads of 20 hp. SO he said the 20 may not have the governance in it's software. He said the owner has a small boat for small lakes and has a 2017 20 hp on it and he said the owner NEVER breaks in a motor, he runs even a new motor like a 3 year old motor right from the start and he heard nothing from him on the 20 hp wanting to pull down rpm.

Also for you Suzuki guys, I am going to a local prop shop to see if I can make a Merc SpiteFire 4 blade aluminum 9.3x11 to work on my motor. That prop is a Flo Torque 1 hub so it is a conventional rubber press in hub. Michigan Wheel Suzuki hubs fit the little Flo Torque Merc hubs (I was told by Michigan Wheel) I will know in a couple of weeks by the latest and I will make a separate posting on it IF it works, if not I will add it here that it is a fail. Also it was a surprise at least to me being out of the loop for 15 years that the Suzuki 25 has the common BIA larger motor mounting specs with 4 bolts 1/2 bolts/ with the optional 2 screw in pads there too . Seeing I just rigged my boss's Suzuki 20 hp that had only the 2 screw in pads. which was good since I have the motor mounted on the lowest bolt hole /being the motor is at it's highest setting and my CAV plate is now even with the bottom of the boat. It still could higher since water always rises after the transom. No blow out or cav. on this boat with it set on the highest motor setting with the crap simpleton Suzuki "homely" prop that is 10 1/4 X 10 pitch.
 
I just got back from the prop shop. The SpiteFire did not fit. The prop was too small gearcase wise. The Suzuki prop has a larger gearcase then the Merc 25. The search continues.
 
FWIW...Last week I put a ss Powertech prop on my DF25A and prop chatter was very bad in gear at idle. Motor sounded like a tractor!
I think I am going to go back to aluminum.
 
if in fact the 'zuke has a break-in governor, it's a potential safety issue...especially in an area I fish when you sometimes need full throttle INSTANTLY to get out of a potential jam.
 
I have read where some were wondering about a break in governer but the only governer on my motor is when it's in neutral
to keep from over revving. Overall I'm very pleased with this motor very quiet and has very good torque. it also seems to be
good on gas.
 
I don't see what the big deal is about a governor. On a small outboard I'd just use it as I normally would use an engine, but if the company that developed the engine put in a device to limit RPM's during their required break in just roll with it. If you have to, drop the engine in a tank and let her run while you change the oil in the car, rev her up and let her break in some more.

10 hours or whatever they say goes by quick and you'll still be under warranty.
 
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