Homemade bunk slicks

I launched the boat and saw a rotten bunk floating the water. I decided to go hunting anyway. For the rest of the day I wondered how I would get the boat back on the trailer.
I decided not to go with carpet for the new bunks. The reason being is that the new pressure treated wood doesn’t use arsenic anymore. Instead it uses more copper. The high copper content has been known to leach out of the wood and eat holes in aluminum boats. The stuff I used is called high density polyethylene. I bought it from a local plastic company for 20 bucks a board. The construction features SS carriage bolts, ss deck screws, countersunk heads and a routered edge. This stuff is so slick that there is no need to power load anymore. The boat may overshoot the trailer and end up in the back of the truck

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=12465

Looks good.

I did the same thing. I was actually able to get the boat all teh way on the trailer. Normally with teh carpeted bunks it would only slide about half way up, Id have to whinch it the rest of the way.

I went with 1 1/2" wide pieces. Had a 3'x6'x1/2" sheet. Most of it now covers my workbench, and I have a piece left over for a my new fish filleting cutting board.

Also remeber to be carefull when unloading if they are wet (or cold in Wisconsin)....I have seen boats dropped on a steep ramp before they even get to the water....comes from unhooking the bow strap too soon....wait until the boat is partialy in the water to unhook...

Outdorrsman.

That was my main concern. I have 5' long bunks and covered only 4' with the HDPE leaving 1' of carpet to hold the boat.

Nice trick with the green dots.

I've been waiting but nobody else has asked. How'd you get the boat back on the trailer after hunting. I figure there's gotta be a story.....

Thanks guys, I hammered some screws into the rotten bunk and drove home real slow.

Ahhhh Just a word of caution on the various plastic wood materials...The material does not have the same lateral strength/stability as real wood. When I looked at using it for a deck project...most of the recommendations called for much closer spans for support. A friend just used it on his Wisconsin farm deck. He used ten or 12 inch supports, rather than the more normal 16 or even 24 inch supports for the same size of real (or treated) wood.

I, personally, have not used it. I think it would be great as a topping over treated wood. No rot. Great slipperiness ( is that even a word?) ..you know what I mean....Ha Ha regards, Rich

Looks good. My bunks are looking pretty rough and I've been trying to find something to replace the carpet with.

slimecoat said:

I launched the boat and saw a rotten bunk floating the water. I decided to go hunting anyway. For the rest of the day I wondered how I would get the boat back on the trailer.
I decided not to go with carpet for the new bunks. The reason being is that the new pressure treated wood doesn’t use arsenic anymore. Instead it uses more copper. The high copper content has been known to leach out of the wood and eat holes in aluminum boats. The stuff I used is called high density polyethylene. I bought it from a local plastic company for 20 bucks a board. The construction features SS carriage bolts, ss deck screws, countersunk heads and a routered edge. This stuff is so slick that there is no need to power load anymore. The boat may overshoot the trailer and end up in the back of the truck

Click to expand...

To all the members sorry for digging this out. I know some boards don't appreciate such things but this post hit home and I needed some more info. slimecoat, I tried to find out more info on the HDPE boards you used and cannot find anything but for decking material. All decking type boards suggested it has a non-slip surface and they even have a grain pattern molded in. Which make sense to me as decks are or tend to be a hazard when wet. What is your "board" originally designed for? You mentioned you got them at a plastic store can you give some product names of the boards so I can look locally? Thanks in Advance to anyone who has any info!

[/quote]


To all the members sorry for digging this out. I know some boards don't appreciate such things but this post hit home and I needed some more info. slimecoat, I tried to find out more info on the HDPE boards you used and cannot find anything but for decking material. All decking type boards suggested it has a non-slip surface and they even have a grain pattern molded in. Which make sense to me as decks are or tend to be a hazard when wet. What is your "board" originally designed for? You mentioned you got them at a plastic store can you give some product names of the boards so I can look locally? Thanks in Advance to anyone who has any info![/quote]


see here: viewtopic.php?f=49&t=12465

Plastic is just over the wood for the bunks,

Plastic decking is very heavy and flexible, not a good answer for floors.

One thing you have to think about is there a rivet over the bunk? It will try to make rivet flush with the bottom of the boat over time and a leak will start, on more slick bunks for me as I trailer long distances many trips over 6 hours one way.

Thanks fishingcop for digging that link up. Did some figuring and I think tHat option is going to be too expensive for me to use. I'll try a couple different ordering options and see for sure. I haven't completely given up on it yet but will explore some other ideas? If a good coat of paint is maintained on your boat bottom I presume that would negate this reaction? What about a good coat of water proof? sealant on the pressure treated boards prior to covering with carpet?

I did the same thing with pressure treated wood and an old cutting board

Just remember to counter sink any SS screws and you are fine

whistler said:

Thanks fishingcop for digging that link up. Did some figuring and I think tHat option is going to be too expensive for me to use. I'll try a couple different ordering options and see for sure. I haven't completely given up on it yet but will explore some other ideas? If a good coat of paint is maintained on your boat bottom I presume that would negate this reaction? What about a good coat of water proof? sealant on the pressure treated boards prior to covering with carpet?

Click to expand...

Since I found that place, several members have found less expensive options. getting smaller pieces (3 1/2 x 12") and placing them about 18" apart along the bunks will work just as well as full length pieces??? Cheaper too. I put mine right on top of the carpeted bunks... counter sunk holes for the screws - works great. keep searching and you'll probably find less expensive options...

FishingCop said:

Since I found that place, several members have found less expensive options. getting smaller pieces (3 1/2 x 12") and placing them about 18" apart along the bunks will work just as well as full length pieces??? Cheaper too. I put mine right on top of the carpeted bunks... counter sunk holes for the screws - works great. keep searching and you'll probably find less expensive options...

Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay, returned home Monday evening, all my digital clocks were flashing at me! I knew the electricity had been off. Later I went to get on the computer and she wouldn't fire! Did a little diagnosis and I guess I'm lucky as it was only a monitor. A new monitor and I'm back in business actually with brighter colors? I have a surge protector so I guess I need to discuss why that didn't save me or what actually happened with someone of knowledge.
Back to the topic at hand, if anyone has some of those HDPE suppliers links handy stick them up for me please. I was pricing a 1" thick board for my 19 foot boat as my bunks are 10' 2X6's laid flat and have 3 mounting points. I might be OK with thinner material?

whistler said:

FishingCop said:

Since I found that place, several members have found less expensive options. getting smaller pieces (3 1/2 x 12") and placing them about 18" apart along the bunks will work just as well as full length pieces??? Cheaper too. I put mine right on top of the carpeted bunks... counter sunk holes for the screws - works great. keep searching and you'll probably find less expensive options...

Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay, returned home Monday evening, all my digital clocks were flashing at me! I knew the electricity had been off. Later I went to get on the computer and she wouldn't fire! Did a little diagnosis and I guess I'm lucky as it was only a monitor. A new monitor and I'm back in business actually with brighter colors? I have a surge protector so I guess I need to discuss why that didn't save me or what actually happened with someone of knowledge.
Back to the topic at hand, if anyone has some of those HDPE suppliers links handy stick them up for me please. I was pricing a 1" thick board for my 19 foot boat as my bunks are 10' 2X6's laid flat and have 3 mounting points. I might be OK with thinner material?

Click to expand...

As long as the HDPE is mounted on top of the solid boards, 1/4" - 3/8" would work. - I used 1/2" and it is fine - 1" would be to extreme and way more expensive.

FishingCop said:

As long as the HDPE is mounted on top of the solid boards, 1/4" - 3/8" would work. - I used 1/2" and it is fine - 1" would be to extreme and way more expensive.

Click to expand...

Good news for me! as I've been pricing the thicker stuff. I'll go back recheck things. Thanks!

whistler said:

FishingCop said:

As long as the HDPE is mounted on top of the solid boards, 1/4" - 3/8" would work. - I used 1/2" and it is fine - 1" would be to extreme and way more expensive.

Click to expand...

Good news for me! as I've been pricing the thicker stuff. I'll go back recheck things. Thanks!

Click to expand...

BTW, the reason I went with 1/2" is to allow for counter-sinking the screw heads without risking them pulling all the way through.....