1972 Johnson 25Hp Refurbish

[kdeitrick46]

Pappy, I did not remove that or any of the Welch plugs. I did spray carb cleaner through the passageway leading to the cavity and saw it exiting the 5or6 small holes in the top of the carb. I took a short cut and am now regretting it because I cannot say with certainty that the cavity and holes are not blocked.
I did remove and clean the high speed jet. I did replace the lift tube seal.
My inclination now is to remove the carb and go back through it ( including the removal of the Welch plugs) so I can say with great certainty what’s what. Additionally, and as mentioned above, I’ll replace the 25 year old bulb and hose and start over with fresh fuel mix. I’ll let you know how it goes and what I find…but that won’t be for several weeks as I’ll be out of country for some time.

Thanks all.

 

[Pappy]

Pappy, I did not remove that or any of the Welch plugs. I did spray carb cleaner through the passageway leading to the cavity and saw it exiting the 5or6 small holes in the top of the carb. I took a short cut and am now regretting it because I cannot say with certainty that the cavity and holes are not blocked.
I did remove and clean the high speed jet. I did replace the lift tube seal.
My inclination now is to remove the carb and go back through it ( including the removal of the Welch plugs) so I can say with great certainty what’s what. Additionally, and as mentioned above, I’ll replace the 25 year old bulb and hose and start over with fresh fuel mix. I’ll let you know how it goes and what I find…but that won’t be for several weeks as I’ll be out of country for some time.

Thanks all.

As far as testing purposes go the primer bulb has nothing to do with starting other than filling the fuel bowl. Nothing.
The carburetor has everything to do with fuel distribution past that. Replace it because it is old and you want to but do not expect any change to occur if the old bulb was capable of filling the carb bowl. Check your passageways and verify the carb is absolutely clean. Start with known good fuel. Make sure your choke blade is ABSOLUTELY closed.....not just close. That has a huge effect on starting. You are off to a good start. Keep going.

 

[kdeitrick46]

On my way to airport, but kept thinking about the choke. It is actuated and held closed by a spring. I do remember that during some of the start attempts I did see the coke plate fluttering. Wondering if I have a weak spring or is this normal?normal?

 

[Pappy]

On my way to airport, but kept thinking about the choke. It is actuated and held closed by a spring. I do remember that during some of the start attempts I did see the coke plate fluttering. Wondering if I have a weak spring or is this normal?View attachment 116076normal?

No, it is not normal.
The choke should fully close and stay closed. To an extent you can loosen the choke solenoid bracket and slide the solenoid back a little to help the blade close and stay closed. Give it a try.
BTW - The spring is there to open it again after the solenoid pulls the plunger and closes the choke blade.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Long thread, but unless I missed something, you've yet to get it to start, right? Even with gas sprayed right into the carb? Seems very curious to me. I'd think it should at least try to start. Even with a wonky choke. Could it be the spark? I mean .400 of an inch seems kind of weak to me. I like to see at least a 1/2" You have good compression right? Hey Pappy, does this thing need new coils maybe? I wonder what they look like.

 

[Pappy]

Not sure but I kind of doubt it. I want as many of the basics covered as possible so we do not have to go back and start over.

 

[kdeitrick46]

Long thread, but unless I missed something, you've yet to get it to start, right? Even with gas sprayed right into the carb? Seems very curious to me. I'd think it should at least try to start. Even with a wonky choke. Could it be the spark? I mean .400 of an inch seems kind of weak to me. I like to see at least a 1/2" You have good compression right? Hey Pappy, does this thing need new coils maybe? I wonder what they look like.

Here’s a picture of the magneto right after I pulled the fly wheel. I thought it looked clean. I dressed the points and got spark. Since I got a spark, I did not do a continuity or resistance check. I’m in Germany for next three weeks, so I’ll not be able to get back on this for a while. I’ll definitely let you know what I find when I get back. Appreciate all the help.

 

[kdeitrick46]

No, it is not normal.
The choke should fully close and stay closed. To an extent you can loosen the choke solenoid bracket and slide the solenoid back a little to help the blade close and stay closed. Give it a try.
BTW - The spring is there to open it again after the solenoid pulls the plunger and closes the choke blade.

Pappy, Thanks. Regarding the BTW, unless I’ve somehow put the choke linkage together wrong, the solenoid just moves the crank toward the rear and the outer coil spring then closes the choke plate softly against the carb throat. That’s why I had asked about the weak spring possibly allowing the choke plate to flutter. I’ll post a video of the linkage operation when I return. Thanks.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

flummoxed

There’s a word you don’t hear everyday.

I think they have a pill for that now though.

 

[Pappy]

Pappy, Thanks. Regarding the BTW, unless I’ve somehow put the choke linkage together wrong, the solenoid just moves the crank toward the rear and the outer coil spring then closes the choke plate softly against the carb throat. That’s why I had asked about the weak spring possibly allowing the choke plate to flutter. I’ll post a video of the linkage operation when I return. Thanks.

Had to think about that one. Was talking about the spring inside the choke solenoid that returns the plunger to the ready position. I got ya'now