1999 Smoker Craft 1432 14'. Need help planning...first time

[seana]

Hello all. I just bought a 1432 Smoker Craft. Trying to figure out what to do and the best way to do it. My restoration skills are very lacking. Here's the rundown:

The first pic is where I stand now (see Doc1.doc attachment).

View attachment Doc1.doc

The second pic is where I want to get (see Doc2.doc attachment).

View attachment Doc2.doc

I'm thinking of spot sanding the bad places and putting a fresh coat of olive on her. I want to have this thing on the water in a month or so ready to go. I want to raise the front deck flush with the top of the bow so I can easily install a motor and run the foot control back to the front seat. That compartment would act as storage for the battery etc. I'd add the access panel to the front as shown. The back is more of a storage cover than a deck. I want to cut a hole in the front of the rear seat and put an access there. Also the rear portion of this will be hinged so I'd have access there as well. The floor I'm thinking marine plywood of course sealed with some sort of bondo resin and carpeted. I think if I lay it directly on the ribs, cut to fit, it would be secure enough...plus I like the idea of being able to take it out if I need to. The seats sit a little higher in the picture than I would like. I'm thinking a 3"-6" base so my feet still sit naturally on the floor of the boat. Frame I'm thinking wood, sealed again of course.

My biggest concern is connecting anything to the boat with screws, rivets, etc. Whats the best way? How do I do this without causing leaks?

I'm looking for any ideas and thoughts on how to accomplish this project the best and easiest way. I really don't want to spend a fortune either. (The wife already wants to kill me for buying the dang thing).

 

[russ010]

Here's how to save some money...

get regular exterior grade plywood. For this size boat you can get by easily with 15/32". Then just put a good coat of water sealer or resin if you want to go that route and carpet it. It will save you a lot by using $20 sheets of ply as opposed to $50 sheets.

Before you build the front deck, you need to know how long the cable is coming from your trolling motor to the foot control. You want to make sure that you have enough cord to reach back and to the floor so that you can sit and steer. Most cables aren't that long resulting in a "not as long" bow platform.

I don't have any of my decks attached to the boat. You are right on with the floor. Cut it tight enough to fit - the carpet will be an extra add to the "wedge" effect to keep it down in the floor. Then you attach your decks to the floor AND the benches. You can use 2x2s for your bracing, or aluminum angle. With your size boat, it's not going to make much of a difference either way.

 

[seana]

Here's how to save some money...

get regular exterior grade plywood. For this size boat you can get by easily with 15/32". Then just put a good coat of water sealer or resin if you want to go that route and carpet it. It will save you a lot by using $20 sheets of ply as opposed to $50 sheets.

Before you build the front deck, you need to know how long the cable is coming from your trolling motor to the foot control. You want to make sure that you have enough cord to reach back and to the floor so that you can sit and steer. Most cables aren't that long resulting in a "not as long" bow platform.

I don't have any of my decks attached to the boat. You are right on with the floor. Cut it tight enough to fit - the carpet will be an extra add to the "wedge" effect to keep it down in the floor. Then you attach your decks to the floor AND the benches. You can use 2x2s for your bracing, or aluminum angle. With your size boat, it's not going to make much of a difference either way.

Wow thank you that helps a lot. i feel a little better about the floor and especially the frame. Now I'm worried about the motor cable. Guess I will have to lay it out and find out. Thanks again!

 

[Rat]

I'm thinking of spot sanding the bad places and putting a fresh coat of olive on her. I want to have this thing on the water in a month or so ready to go. I want to raise the front deck flush with the top of the bow so I can easily install a motor and run the foot control back to the front seat. That compartment would act as storage for the battery etc. I'd add the access panel to the front as shown. The back is more of a storage cover than a deck. I want to cut a hole in the front of the rear seat and put an access there. Also the rear portion of this will be hinged so I'd have access there as well. The floor I'm thinking marine plywood of course sealed with some sort of bondo resin and carpeted. I think if I lay it directly on the ribs, cut to fit, it would be secure enough...plus I like the idea of being able to take it out if I need to. The seats sit a little higher in the picture than I would like. I'm thinking a 3"-6" base so my feet still sit naturally on the floor of the boat. Frame I'm thinking wood, sealed again of course.

My biggest concern is connecting anything to the boat with screws, rivets, etc. Whats the best way? How do I do this without causing leaks?

I'm looking for any ideas and thoughts on how to accomplish this project the best and easiest way. I really don't want to spend a fortune either. (The wife already wants to kill me for buying the dang thing).

Do not use Bondo type resin. Bondo is a polyester resin and will allow water intrusion into the wood. If you are going to go with this type of sealant use good epoxy resin, not polyester or vinylester resin. Marine Epoxy is a good brand for this application. Many people use a protectorant like Thompson's water seal or Boiled Linseed Oil; and since none of your decking or framing is structural I would recommend this way as well. Especially since you are going to carpet it anyway.

I would not cut a hole through the front of the rear seat frame for storage. There is flotation foam in that compartment and you may never need it, but if you do it could save your life. Plan your storage around the foam, or plan on adding the same amount of foam back to the hull somewhere.

I know some of the mods on here let the sole just lie on the ribs like you are talking about; but for me I would be a basket case worrying about it flying out at highway speeds. I would shoot a few screws just for piece of mind. Then, when you want to remove it, just remove the screws and lift it out.

For fastening the framing and decks to the hull check out the other mods, lots of good and different ways to do this. Some use rivets, some use screws, I used bolts for my cleats and 5200 for others. Seal all hull penetrations with 5200 below the water line and 4200 above (or just use 5200 for all of them) and you can forget about leaks.

A one month turn around for this would be a pretty good show. I couldn't do it in a month!

 

[seana]

I'm thinking of spot sanding the bad places and putting a fresh coat of olive on her. I want to have this thing on the water in a month or so ready to go. I want to raise the front deck flush with the top of the bow so I can easily install a motor and run the foot control back to the front seat. That compartment would act as storage for the battery etc. I'd add the access panel to the front as shown. The back is more of a storage cover than a deck. I want to cut a hole in the front of the rear seat and put an access there. Also the rear portion of this will be hinged so I'd have access there as well. The floor I'm thinking marine plywood of course sealed with some sort of bondo resin and carpeted. I think if I lay it directly on the ribs, cut to fit, it would be secure enough...plus I like the idea of being able to take it out if I need to. The seats sit a little higher in the picture than I would like. I'm thinking a 3"-6" base so my feet still sit naturally on the floor of the boat. Frame I'm thinking wood, sealed again of course.

My biggest concern is connecting anything to the boat with screws, rivets, etc. Whats the best way? How do I do this without causing leaks?

I'm looking for any ideas and thoughts on how to accomplish this project the best and easiest way. I really don't want to spend a fortune either. (The wife already wants to kill me for buying the dang thing).

Do not use Bondo type resin. Bondo is a polyester resin and will allow water intrusion into the wood. If you are going to go with this type of sealant use good epoxy resin, not polyester or vinylester resin. Marine Epoxy is a good brand for this application. Many people use a protectorant like Thompson's water seal or Boiled Linseed Oil; and since none of your decking or framing is structural I would recommend this way as well. Especially since you are going to carpet it anyway.

I would not cut a hole through the front of the rear seat frame for storage. There is flotation foam in that compartment and you may never need it, but if you do it could save your life. Plan your storage around the foam, or plan on adding the same amount of foam back to the hull somewhere.

I know some of the mods on here let the sole just lie on the ribs like you are talking about; but for me I would be a basket case worrying about it flying out at highway speeds. I would shoot a few screws just for piece of mind. Then, when you want to remove it, just remove the screws and lift it out.

For fastening the framing and decks to the hull check out the other mods, lots of good and different ways to do this. Some use rivets, some use screws, I used bolts for my cleats and 5200 for others. Seal all hull penetrations with 5200 below the water line and 4200 above (or just use 5200 for all of them) and you can forget about leaks.

A one month turn around for this would be a pretty good show. I couldn't do it in a month!

lol...i have a lot of free time. thank you for the tips as well. I was not aware of the foam in the seat...that was one of my questions I needed answered before I tore into it. I'll probably just use the space behind it for storage and forget under the seat. Thank you...