77 Smoker-craft Bench Seat Mods

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For the battery box, which is also a seat, do you guys think for the hinged lid (just the top lid) that 0.250", 1/4" thick aluminum plate is thick enough to act as a seat without getting bowed in from someone's sitting on it? Maybe I should add some angles welded on the inside to reinforce it? I do plan on adding an inside center post angle under the top divider angle between the batteries. Thanks
 
For the battery box, which is also a seat, do you guys think for the hinged lid (just the top lid) that 0.250", 1/4" thick aluminum plate is thick enough to act as a seat without getting bowed in from someone's sitting on it? Maybe I should add some angles welded on the inside to reinforce it? I do plan on adding an inside center post angle under the top divider angle between the batteries. Thanks

Not sure of the span, but I think the angle support would be needed. My first thought is do you really need 1/4, or will 1/8 with support do the job -- IDK.
 
If your finnished items look as good as your cardboard templates, your gonna have a nice lookin boat !!
Thanks, my plan is to cardboard everything up, and then cut it apart piece by piece, fabricate out of aluminum, and then spray the whole inside a single color, probably a concrete grey color. I am also going to paint the outside of the boat. I am not big on a red colored boat. I will post some more progress pics... not much boat activity today... gots to watch the superbowl with friends :)
 
Got the console and battery box all riveted down to the hull yesterday. Added a latch to the front deck and a onboard charging port for the battery box... I am going to add a mini 100AH lithium for the onboard electronics and accessory power with a NOCO 3 bank charger so when I get in from fishing I can plug in the whole box and charge it all with one cord, that is going to be a great addition!

Going for the steering wheel install today and then the new Honda in the next day or two, that will be fun :)

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Wow! Nicely done. Is the top of the steering console hinged for access to the fuse block?
No hinges on the top, 4 screws that hold down the fish finder which is also NMEA 2000, could be a PITA to access... but hopefully I am not blowing fuses! 😆
 
Curious here, are there ribs under that flat floor ?? I don't see any vertical ribs along the sides....unless there is some support I don't see in the pics, I would be concerned in rough chop. What am I not seeing ?
 
No hinges on the top, 4 screws that hold down the fish finder which is also NMEA 2000, could be a PITA to access... but hopefully I am not blowing fuses! 😆

My trolling motor battery is under the step up to the walk-thru window in my boat. I had to remove four screws to remove the step to access the battery. I recently replaced the screws with clevis pins. I was a little worried about the steps rattling around. So far, so good.
 
Curious here, are there ribs under that flat floor ?? I don't see any vertical ribs along the sides....unless there is some support I don't see in the pics, I would be concerned in rough chop. What am I not seeing ?
A third of the console floor rivets are solid through hull, I will be keeping an eye on everything. 👌👍
 
In your original plans you show a pedestal base behind the wheel console. Just thinking out loud, the helm seat could be mounted on a small box tied to the floor and side. Could leave it open in the front so stuff could be stored underneath. There would be a gain in structural support and storage. Anyway, just some blue sky thinking. Boat is looking great.
 
For the battery box, which is also a seat, do you guys think for the hinged lid (just the top lid) that 0.250", 1/4" thick aluminum plate is thick enough to act as a seat without getting bowed in from someone's sitting on it? Maybe I should add some angles welded on the inside to reinforce it? I do plan on adding an inside center post angle under the top divider angle between the batteries. Thanks
I think 1/8” is plenty thick. Just weld a channel stiffener on the bottom side. This is the technique that I’ll be using for a 15x45” deck hatch. It’s lighter and less expensive than 1/4” plate.

Here’s an example from the TB Nation website.

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As I recall, TB Nation is using 5052 aluminum . It’s about half the price of 6061 and has better corrosion resistance. I have 6061 on hand so that is probably what I’ll use for deck lids on the little jon project. The 6061 is stronger and I expect it’s stiffer but, I haven’t compared the two alloys side by side.
 
I think 1/8” is plenty thick. Just weld a channel stiffener on the bottom side. This is the technique that I’ll be using for a 15x45” deck hatch. It’s lighter and less expensive than 1/4” plate.

Here’s an example from the TB Nation website.

View attachment 119739

As I recall, TB Nation is using 5052 aluminum . It’s about half the price of 6061 and has better corrosion resistance. I have 6061 on hand so that is probably what I’ll use for deck lids on the little jon project. The 6061 is stronger and I expect it’s stiffer but, I haven’t compared the two alloys side by side.
Thank you, and yes, I used 1/8" thick and it will be fine, I did add some internal, removable supports.
(y)
 
Thank you, and yes, I used 1/8" thick and it will be fine, I did add some internal, removable supports.
(y)
I must have clicked on an old post. Yesterday I saw cardboard boxes and today it’s nearly finished. Thought wow, this guy is fast!

It’s looking good. Just in time for spring fishing.
 
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