Battery Terminals

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The battery circuit kit above is what I was about to recommend. They work fine, really helpful on a small boat.

If you use wing nuts, wrench-tighten them, as Airshot describes above. A nut is a nut, but they MUST be tightened properly.

I use lock washers regularly and add a thin coat of Vaseline to all terminal parts to keep salt, water and corrosion out.
 
Use wing-nuts on a saltwater offshore boat and I A-#1 guarantee you that they WILL loosen up …

Also, the reason for a washer on the stud 1st is because there are NO THREADS at the bottom of a battery post, many times keeping anything connected there loose …
I guess I should refer to fresh water applications, not familiar with salt water practices. Not sure why salt water use would cause them ro come loose, especially with lock washers and tightened by a wrench...
 
Find this wingnut business curious. I use them for my trolling motor and in my entire life I've never had a wingnut back off on anything. I'm not a big ox by any means, but I do put a lock washer underneath. Why would salt water matter? I just really don't get it. Wingnuts to me are just a convenience and seem to do the same job as a normal nut. Normal nuts "can" come loose too, right? Not trying to be argumentative, just curious.
 
Find this wingnut business curious. I use them for my trolling motor and in my entire life I've never had a wingnut back off on anything. I'm not a big ox by any means, but I do put a lock washer underneath. Why would salt water matter? I just really don't get it. Wingnuts to me are just a convenience and seem to do the same job as a normal nut. Normal nuts "can" come loose too, right? Not trying to be argumentative, just curious.
Because many people just finger tighten them, they have had issues of comming loose or making weak electrical connections. Many of the newer electronics can be cer sensative to rapid voltage changes, even to the point of destroying them. One big issue in a marine enviorment is a potential spark from a loose connection. Many water craft with motors have the potential of gathering fuel vapors in areas where batteries are stored. So sparks in a fuel vapor area is not a good idea !! Haveing them tight with a tool instead of just fingers ( or any nut type) reduces greatly the chance of a spark.
 
Went to Ace today and purchased 2 1-1/2" SS bolts, 2 SS kep nuts and 2 SS wing nuts.

Cut the heads of the bolts and voila! Battery posts! Attached the fuse blocks with the kep nuts and the trolling motor with the wing nuts. Easy peasy.

DSC05846.JPGDSC05850.JPG
 
Wing nuts are fine if tightened with tools, not just fingers. I have used them for years, just had a safety inspection and the officer stated that if they could not be loosened by hand they were fine. And yes a lock or star washer can be added to be sure. like anything, there is a right way and a quick get it overwith method. Fact is, all electrical connections must be tight and not with just fingers!!
If you are tightening to the point of needing tools, then why bother using a wing nut?
 
What DaleH said.."Just please NEVER use wingnuts on a battery. Loose connections can blow a stator on an OB engine. And always put an internal or external tooth lock washer down on the battery post before adding any other battery item, such as the OB starter leads."

If there is a loose/intermittent connection to the battery (THE LOAD).. your charging source (the outboard) will see .. no load- then--load , and something very technical and magic and EXPENSIVE will happen to the charging system of your outboard.
Never interrupt a person working with a power tool, or a charging source by switching the load on and off.
 
If you are tightening to the point of needing tools, then why bother using a wing nut?
Because I don't need a wrench! I can use a pocket knufe, a key, a screwdriver, or my pliers for removing hooks. In an energency, would you have a wrench or a socket handy? When discussed during my local CG auxilliary inspection they seemed to agree with my thoughts...
 
What DaleH said.."Just please NEVER use wingnuts on a battery. Loose connections can blow a stator on an OB engine. And always put an internal or external tooth lock washer down on the battery post before adding any other battery item, such as the OB starter leads."

If there is a loose/intermittent connection to the battery (THE LOAD).. your charging source (the outboard) will see .. no load- then--load , and something very technical and magic and EXPENSIVE will happen to the charging system of your outboard.
Never interrupt a person working with a power tool, or a charging source by switching the load on and off.
Why would a wing nut be more prone to loosening than a hex nut if properly tightened to begin with ?? On my CG inspection they try to loosen with there fingers then they grab the wire where hex nuts are used and twist the wire to see if they come loose. According to the inspector, he claimed quite often the hex nuts are not tight and the wires can easily be moved !! Bottom line is what ever you use they need to be tightened down with a tool, not your fingers..
 
I get what you guys are saying, but somebody careless enough to not get a wingnut tight is prob careless enough to not tighten a nut well with a wrench either. When I tighten a wing as much as I possibly can, sometimes I need a pair of pliers to get it off. Think the real answer is make sure battery connections are REALLY tight no matter what kind they are.
 
Figure a way to protect rhe exposed terminals so a short doesnt happen if something contacts them both at the same time. That is the primary reason for a battery box. In the past, a box was needed for spilliage from the wet cells. This looks like a tough case, so perhaps keeping the terminals covered should work. In Ohio they don't write you a ticket for not having a battery box, but they can spend a long time telling you why you should have one!!
The safety inspection may not get you a sticker if the battery has exposed terminals, but you won' t go to jail...lol
 

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