Can I get an ASAP opinion??

[Basstrackertx17]

Why do you think it is backwards? From the view in the pic the impeller would be turning CCW to get those bends. The view we have is the BOTTOM so from the top that shaft would have to be turning clockwise, which is correct.

The tip would be the trailing edge from engine rotation.

 

[LDUBS]

NO. The engine only turns one way. The prop has gears to go in forward and reverse, but not the driveshaft that turns the impeller.

Every service manual I have ever seen says to rotate the driveshaft while installing the impeller so that the vanes all turn the same way. Hard to believe the factory didn't follow it's own advice. Maybe a new guy was working that day and didn't know better.

I am not a mechanic but have changed out several impellers. I am about as certain as I can be that this is a not issue due to the factory install. Having some of the vanes move to the wrong direction is not uncommon when the impeller housing is removed from the shaft. It can sometimes be a pain to keep them in the correct direction when reinstalling, especially if it instead of rotating the driveshaft the impeller housing is rotated the wrong way to line up the woodruff key. Some say not to worry as the vanes will bend to the correct direction when the motor runs. I don't adhere to that school of thought and prefer to install them in the correct orientation.

Going off topic, some maintenance schedules say to "check" the impeller in between the interval to change them out. If I go to the trouble of pulling open the water pump, I am going to replace the impeller with a new one. Probably overkill, but the last thing I want is to experience a water pump failure and part is fairly inexpensive.

 

[MDCrappie]

The tip would be the trailing edge from engine rotation.

Looks like you answered my question without reading my entire response..........Based on the curved direction of the trailing edges the impeller was spinning in a clockwise direction when viewed from the powerhead looking down. This means that the powerhead was spinning in a clockwise direction. To me at least, this indicates that the impeller shown was installed CORRECTLY.

 

[Pale_Horse_Idaho]

Why do you think it is backwards? From the view in the pic the impeller would be turning CCW to get those bends. The view we have is the BOTTOM so from the top that shaft would have to be turning clockwise, which is correct.

He is right. Look at the direction marks printed on the impeller. Look at the bottom 3 vanes. They point the opposite of the top 3 vanes and the opposite of the direction markers printed on the surface.

 

[thill]

-Deleted- Wrong thread, sorry!

 

[datsunscott]

Rust:
Putting a wet rag and soaking the key in evaposust will remove the rust easily without damage- it is non-acidic.
Better and easier- Seeing how its just very little if it were mine I would just use some metal prep like "Kleen-Strip concrete and metal prep-
It has phosphoric acid some additives that strip the rust änd some of the iron molecules in the surface to reduce rust.
It leaves a little iron phosphate in the pores. a little brush and some paper towels is all you need. it is acid so rinse or just wipe dry when done.
Not needed but going the extra mile.

Pump Impeller lubrication when installing:
When installing the pump impeller I would put a thin minimal layer of thin silicone grease on the impeller rubber sides and tips (or just a thin layer over all the the rubber.) You could put a thin layer on the cavity body walls. A good chpoice would be dielectric silicone grease for spark plug boots.
Most auto stores sell tiny packets cheap by checkout as an adder, its cheap enough for a tube anyway and norrmally used in spark plug and coil on plug boots. It will prevent the impeller from sticking and lubricate on ititial startup. yes best to have all the tips in the right direction.

Shaft, key and impeller bore rust precention for easy disasembly later:
For the splines and shaft use thicker waterproof grease (not for lubrication) so trailer grease is not good- use plain silicone.
Danco waterproof grease for plumbing is good- a little tube of #80360 is cheap and will work good. Try not to get on impellers sides because it is thick, even though it is compatable. Detail: i would smear a little on shaft and key-and put a good amount in impeller bore, put impeller in, Push any excess or add more Danco to fill any spline or keyway spaces, then wipe off excess from the impeller rubber and put a little of the thin silicone greease on the exposed rubber side of impeller. I know super detailed but thats gong to the max!

Sealing water pump:
I prefer to seal water pumps and thermostats with Hylomar Blue or Elring Curil T non-hardening sealant. Seals good and easy to disassemble.
It will seal water and coolant and is easy to clean off or thin with a little laquer thinner. a thin layer rubbed across the sealing surface will be enough.
If the bolts go through to water on the back they should have a sealant on the threads, if they go in a "blind"hole then just a little hylomar under the head of a bolt and between head and washer will seal it- just be careful as it can reduce the torque needed slippery like grease when torquing. So dont overtorque.

Those sealants are amazing - made to go between machined surfaces- used in jet engines and I used on Porsches and VW cases and rotary engines.
(I learned about Curil from the Porsche race motors) It is easy to diassemble and if you have to do an emergency impeller replacement might even be able to be"re-smeared"" with your finger if there is a little left- especially if there is a tiny but on the outside. When I put on thermostat gaskets they come right out and usualy can reuse gasket and reseal without adding more!

Hope that helps some of you out there- let me know!

 

[Basstrackertx17]

Rust:
Putting a wet rag and soaking the key in evaposust will remove the rust easily without damage- it is non-acidic.
Better and easier- Seeing how its just very little if it were mine I would just use some metal prep like "Kleen-Strip concrete and metal prep-
It has phosphoric acid some additives that strip the rust änd some of the iron molecules in the surface to reduce rust.
It leaves a little iron phosphate in the pores. a little brush and some paper towels is all you need. it is acid so rinse or just wipe dry when done.
Not needed but going the extra mile.

Pump Impeller lubrication when installing:
When installing the pump impeller I would put a thin minimal layer of thin silicone grease on the impeller rubber sides and tips (or just a thin layer over all the the rubber.) You could put a thin layer on the cavity body walls. A good chpoice would be dielectric silicone grease for spark plug boots.
Most auto stores sell tiny packets cheap by checkout as an adder, its cheap enough for a tube anyway and norrmally used in spark plug and coil on plug boots. It will prevent the impeller from sticking and lubricate on ititial startup. yes best to have all the tips in the right direction.

Shaft, key and impeller bore rust precention for easy disasembly later:
For the splines and shaft use thicker waterproof grease (not for lubrication) so trailer grease is not good- use plain silicone.
Danco waterproof grease for plumbing is good- a little tube of #80360 is cheap and will work good. Try not to get on impellers sides because it is thick, even though it is compatable. Detail: i would smear a little on shaft and key-and put a good amount in impeller bore, put impeller in, Push any excess or add more Danco to fill any spline or keyway spaces, then wipe off excess from the impeller rubber and put a little of the thin silicone greease on the exposed rubber side of impeller. I know super detailed but thats gong to the max!

Sealing water pump:
I prefer to seal water pumps and thermostats with Hylomar Blue or Elring Curil T non-hardening sealant. Seals good and easy to disassemble.
It will seal water and coolant and is easy to clean off or thin with a little laquer thinner. a thin layer rubbed across the sealing surface will be enough.
If the bolts go through to water on the back they should have a sealant on the threads, if they go in a "blind"hole then just a little hylomar under the head of a bolt and between head and washer will seal it- just be careful as it can reduce the torque needed slippery like grease when torquing. So dont overtorque.

Those sealants are amazing - made to go between machined surfaces- used in jet engines and I used on Porsches and VW cases and rotary engines.
(I learned about Curil from the Porsche race motors) It is easy to diassemble and if you have to do an emergency impeller replacement might even be able to be"re-smeared"" with your finger if there is a little left- especially if there is a tiny but on the outside. When I put on thermostat gaskets they come right out and usualy can reuse gasket and reseal without adding more!

Hope that helps some of you out there- let me know!

I love Hylomar Blue on the race car. I’ve changed gears between sessions and never touched the stuff and just
reinstalled. Never leaked..