Force 40hp...another problem, won't start!

[user 20022]

Try connecting the battery negative post straight to the starter metal housing. Then tap the yellow/ red connection again. This will be the best method of ruling out Any bad wiring.

 

[kofkorn]

From your description, you only bypassed the key switch.

1) The Red/yellow wire on the solenoid is the connection which activates the solenoid. So all you did was bypass the key switch and activate the solenoid directly. (The wire gauge you used is fine for this purpose). The starter still pulled its power through your normal battery cables.

2) If you were planning on bypassing the solenoid and going directly to the starter, the wire that you are using is FAR too small. You should be looking at using nothing less than a 10 ga wire (very cheap jumper cables) preferably a 6 ga wire. Most standard battery cables are 4 or 2 ga.

3)If you are jumping directly to the battery, make sure you connect SECURELY to the post on the starter FIRST and then tap or connect to the POS battery post. When you jump the starter, you'll pull between 60 and 100 amps, which is a very standard welding amperage. If you connect to the post on the starter last, you will cause arcing which will have a very good chance to melt the threads on the post. Once you do that, it will be VERY difficult (if even possible) to remove the nut from the post. Keep the arcing on the battery post instead. It's far more forgiving.

So if you really want to eliminate your wiring as a problem:

-Remove the kill switch lanyard, place the ignition key in the "OFF" position.
-Disconnect the normal battery cables.
-Using a heavy cable, connect the negative battery post to the frame of the starter (one of the bolts is good enough)
-Using one end of another heavy cable connect to the starter post
-Lastly connect the other end of the cable to the Positive battery post. Just be warned that it will spark pretty good. The starter should start spinning immediately and will remain turning until the cable is disconnected

Good luck!

 

[euroshowoff]

From your description, you only bypassed the key switch.

1) The Red/yellow wire on the solenoid is the connection which activates the solenoid. So all you did was bypass the key switch and activate the solenoid directly. (The wire gauge you used is fine for this purpose). The starter still pulled its power through your normal battery cables.

2) If you were planning on bypassing the solenoid and going directly to the starter, the wire that you are using is FAR too small. You should be looking at using nothing less than a 10 ga wire (very cheap jumper cables) preferably a 6 ga wire. Most standard battery cables are 4 or 2 ga.

3)If you are jumping directly to the battery, make sure you connect SECURELY to the post on the starter FIRST and then tap or connect to the POS battery post. When you jump the starter, you'll pull between 60 and 100 amps, which is a very standard welding amperage. If you connect to the post on the starter last, you will cause arcing which will have a very good chance to melt the threads on the post. Once you do that, it will be VERY difficult (if even possible) to remove the nut from the post. Keep the arcing on the battery post instead. It's far more forgiving.

So if you really want to eliminate your wiring as a problem:

-Remove the kill switch lanyard, place the ignition key in the "OFF" position.
-Disconnect the normal battery cables.
-Using a heavy cable, connect the negative battery post to the frame of the starter (one of the bolts is good enough)
-Using one end of another heavy cable connect to the starter post
-Lastly connect the other end of the cable to the Positive battery post. Just be warned that it will spark pretty good. The starter should start spinning immediately and will remain turning until the cable is disconnected

Good luck!

this makes much more sense, thanks for the info.

probably won't be able to work much this week, but i'll post my findings.

 

[JL8Jeff]

Sounds like you have a lot of resistance if the battery cable is getting hot and starting to smoke. Clean all your connections really well, make sure you have a good ground that is clean. You may want to even pull the spark plugs out of the motor to see if it helps to crank it over easier. If the rings are sticking it could cause the starter to work too hard to crank it over. If the starter isn't turning easily you will overtax the battery and wiring. Your neg battery cable could be damaged now if it got so hot it started to smoke, that should be replaced. I had a similar issue with the Chevy 350 in my jet boat and smoked the cable because I think there was surface rust in the cylinder walls making it very difficult to crank over. I replaced the battery cables after getting it fired up.

 

[euroshowoff]

Thanks I ordered a new set of starter cables and it's coming with a solenoid as well. I saw some voltage drop when testing so hopefully that solves this issue.

 

[Johnny]

if you don't have a use for the used cables,
cut them open and see how they look.

 

[navybluejacket]

Timing.

 

[euroshowoff]

Had some time to replace the cables today also found out I had a bad tilt up relay.

Decided to remove spark plugs and crank the motor, strong crank was the result

Then decided to put the plugs back in and attempt to start the motor - same behavior. Very weak crank.

So motor will crank without the plugs in but hesitates when I put the plugs in.

 

[rednecknproud21]

You need a new starter. That windings are weak that's why you are not getting the torque to turn the motor with the plugs in.

 

[euroshowoff]

You need a new starter. That windings are weak that's why you are not getting the torque to turn the motor with the plugs in.

Anyway to test that?

 

[rednecknproud21]

You can check resistance on the starter windings with a ohmmeter.

 

[euroshowoff]

You can check resistance on the starter windings with a ohmmeter.

Hmmm, I'll give this a try. What should it read?